Griz GO513 bandsaw tension question

[Gary Pennington]

Got a new Griz saw a couple months ago. The manual outlines the flutter method for tensioning which was (is) totally new to me. The saw came with a 1/2" blade installed and pretensioned to around 2 on the scale. I did a few cuts, then retensioned following the instructions and ended up at 2 just like the factory setting each time.

Installed a 1/4"x 6 tpi general purpose blade from Highland Woodworking and used the flutter method to tension. Ended up at 4 3/4 on the tension scale. Seemed really high as compared to the 1/2" supplied blade. Redid the flutter method a couple times & came up with the same setting.

Fast forward 3 months. I've done very little woodworking since tensioning as I'm reorganizing the shop & DC. I do release the tension when not in use, pulled the tension lever last night to make a cut and BAM!! The band broke right at the weld.

I was concerned about the tension right away but wrote it off as a cheap 1/2" blade compared to a pretty good 1/4" blade. Anyone with a 513 shed some light? Did I tension incorrectly? What kind of tension numbers do you see on your saws?

[Van Huskey]

First off, give Highland a call, most band sellers warrant against breaks at the weld. You had a band weld, period.

As for tensioning you got some mixed results with the flutter method, one reason I don't like it. I tend to measure band stretch on wide and other high tension blades but with narrow carbon blades like you have I use the poke method. Meaning I raise the guides up about 6" off the table and push my index finger into the side of the blade. You will feel it deflect easily for a little bit then seem to hit a wall, sure you can push it farther but the effort required goes up very quickly. When the 6" of "free" blade deflects roughly 1/4" before becoming difficult you should be right in the ball park. If you have your guides fully raise for 12" of free blade it should be more like 3/8". This may seem as unscientific as the flutter method but it seems to me to be far easier to repeat. Repeatability is the key, if you can do this several times with different blades and end up near the same spot on the scale you have it down well enough to use. In the end I think you were low on the 1/2" blade and high on the 1/4" blade. Also feel free to adjust the tension in small increments as you use the blade if it is not cutting like you expect it to. A little more or little less tension can often remedy an issue. Once you have a tension "dialed" in for a blade make a note of it. As long as the blade is the same width, thickness and material (carbon, spring steel, bi-metal etc) you can use that same tension on the scale and should be right on.

Since the saw is new to you maybe some 513 owners can chime in to give the rough scale numbers for the blades they are using to get you a starting point.

[glenn bradley]

Agree with the bad weld versus anything you have done. Give 'em a call.

[Gary Pennington]

Thanks Van & Glenn. Just got off the phone with Sam @ Highland. Explained the above & he said it shouldn't have broke. They're sending a new blade no charge, I had ordered 3 this morning. He explained the same tensioning method as you, Van.

Gary

[Van Huskey]

Good deal! I figured they would cover it, most places do. You will soon learn (but keep a written list) where certain width and gauge bands need to be tensioned on the scale. I think the scale goes to 10, if so I would start at 2 for a 1/8", 4 for a 1/4", 6 for a 1/2" and 8 for a 3/4" and work from there. My guess it you will probably have to go up a little with most of the bands. This assumes you are using "standard" carbon bands which like about 15,000 PSI. So based on this I think you were about right with the 1/4" band you were using but probably rather low for the 1/2" that came with it. When it arrived with tension at the 2 spot understand it was not tensioned for use just to keep the upper wheel/tension assembly from bouncing around in transit.

[Gary Pennington]

Thanks Van. The bands from Highland come with a self adhesive label with the specs so I just stick them inside the top cover and record the tension setting on it.
Already have shipping confirmation on both my order for new bands and the replacement. Great service from Highland.

Gary

[Van Huskey]

Thats a good idea. Highland is a great group of people and I was pretty sure they would make good on a weld break.

[Keith Hankins]

I've had the 513 for going on 7+ years now and use the flutter method and no issues. I threw the stock blade away and bought timberwolfe blades and no issues. A year ago I made the decision to dedicate it to resawing and sprung for a laguna carbide 1" blade what a sweet upgrade. No issues at all. All i've done is replace the tires. Not bad for the price. I did upgrade the guides. Never did pay attention to those numbers on the tension guides.

[Fred Belknap]

I have had the 513 for a few months and dislike using the flutter method. I use a method similar to Van and mine with a .5" Timberwolf is set a 4.5 on the scale. It seems to work ok.

[russell lusthaus]

I have had the 513 for a few years with no problems. I use the flutter method, a 1/2 inch Timberwolf blade, and never look at the scale. I also do not release the tension when not in use, although I probably should.

Russ

[Van Huskey]

I also do not release the tension when not in use, although I probably should.

Russ

An area of much discussion. My opinion is the only negative is the potential to flat spotting the tires. If you use the bandsaw once a week or more I don't think it is an issue at all. Also there is a lower chance that you will harm the tire if it is urethane vs rubber. That said I almost always drop the tension partly because all my tires are rubber and none of them are cheap.

[russell lusthaus]

I agree with you. Since I do use it more than once a week and have changed the tires - I feel comfortable. I find the performance slips a little when the temp is cold (winter in my garage) and the poor performance lasts until the tires heat up a bit. Not sure if my imagination or not - but that is my story and I am sticking with it. LOL.

Russ

[Van Huskey]

I agree with you. Since I do use it more than once a week and have changed the tires - I feel comfortable. I find the performance slips a little when the temp is cold (winter in my garage) and the poor performance lasts until the tires heat up a bit. Not sure if my imagination or not - but that is my story and I am sticking with it. LOL.

Russ

It makes sense whether it is true or not. Do your BS have urethane tires? If not and if they will work with iyour saw they may have better cold weather characteristics than rubber.

[russell lusthaus]

Honestly, I cant remember if the new tires I have on there now are urethane or rubber. They are grey. Probably rubber since I don't remember paying too much for them.

[Van Huskey]

Honestly, I cant remember if the new tires I have on there now are urethane or rubber. They are grey. Probably rubber since I don't remember paying too much for them.

Although off hand I can't remember seeing gray urethane ones rubber ones are generally black AND in general usually MORE expensive depending on the bandsaw they are for.

[russell lusthaus]

If memory serves, I got them from Grizzly. Do they sell both?

[Van Huskey]

I think most of not all their tires for their CURRENT line are urethane but not 100% sure.