Lookee what Brown did for me today!

[Alan Schaffter]

:) :) :) :) :)

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2404/medium/IMG_4142r.jpg

[frank shic]

lol enjoy and give us a review soon ;)

[Bruce Wrenn]

I assume it is production run numbered 1. Congrats Alan!

[Don Bullock]

lol enjoy and give us a review soon ;)

I agree with Frank. It looks like an easy way to make great box joints.

[richard poitras]

Mine did come in but I did not have time to pick it up … but I will tomorrow.:D

[frank shic]

Mine did come in but I did not have time to pick it up … but I will tomorrow.:D

you must be feeling itchy!

[Rod Sheridan]

Wow, they sent you two carbboard boxes!:D

What are you going to do with them?.......Regards, Rod

[Al Watson]

Congrats again Alan! I know you worked long and hard to see this project come to reality. Bill

[richard poitras]

you must be feeling itchy!


Frank you got that right! Big kids and their toys are the worst…

[Ronald Blue]

I just watched the demo video on Incra's website. Very impressive! I think even I could have good results with this box joint jig. I look forward to hearing your review and hopefully seeing some photos of finished projects. Enjoy!

[Van Huskey]

Wow, they sent you two carbboard boxes!:D

What are you going to do with them?.......Regards, Rod

They are obviously templates for boxes, gosh Rod, get with the program!

[Dave Mura]

Congrats!!
http://chdsolutions.com/img/11d867796d85db8cad5280ac44cec7c1.jpghttp://chdsolutions.com/img/a57d48399922b03419153a9760c5ce53.jpghttp://chdsolutions.com/img/cabad3b9bc0afe08cd9ec861638ed1d9.gif

[richard poitras]

Alan I finally got my new I-Box home and watched the set up/user DVD and un packed the jig. The DVD explains the set up very well (really there’s not much to the initial assembly/ 5 minutes) and the user aspects of the system seems very easy as well.

I think it’s a winner so far with my initial inspections and I must say its design is well thought out. I like how it you can center out the spacing of the joints on your work piece. Also it’s nice how they give you tips at the end of the DVD as well for those special techniques when using the jig. :cool:

Now I just have to get in the shop and give it a try.



Richard

[Rod Sheridan]

They are obviously templates for boxes, gosh Rod, get with the program!

It's obvious once you point it out!

I promise to pay more attention next time.................Rod

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan I finally got my new I-Box home and watched the set up/user DVD and un packed the jig. The DVD explains the set up very well (really there’s not much to the initial assembly/ 5 minutes) and the user aspects of the system seems very easy as well.

I think it’s a winner so far with my initial inspections and I must say its design is well thought out. I like how it you can center out the spacing of the joints on your work piece. Also it’s nice how they give you tips at the end of the DVD as well for those special techniques when using the jig. :cool:

Now I just have to get in the shop and give it a try.

Richard

I hope you enjoy it!

One caution- be careful with the micro adjuster- it makes the initial kiss calibration very easy, but it is really powerful! It can be used to correct for a less than perfect calibration or to adjust the fit of any joint, but requires only minimal rotation- just a few tic marks.

I'll be using my IBOX in a few minutes to make the corner joints on a changing topper that will sit on a low chest that is part of a set of baby room furniture I am building for our forthcoming grandchild.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2474/medium/Wide_Chest.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2474/medium/IMG_4133.JPG

[Alan Schaffter]

Quick designer/user report!

I don't mean to brag, heck, yes I do!!! The production IBOX is sweet!!! Granted I know how it works and how to use it, but the first joint I cut after assembling the jig was perfect!! Actually it was too perfect- it took some gentle tapping with a mallet to firmly seat the snug-fitting fingers. I could have lived with that, but since I was just making test cuts in some scrap cherry, I said what the hey and dialed it a few ticks (see my previous post) of micro adjust (lefty- loosey, righty- tighty :D ). Results- a better "perfect" joint :) . I was using narrow boards and just holding them with my hands, no clamps, so had to be careful they didn't tilt or tip.

I will be interested in other user reports. Please don't hesitate to post. Don't be embarrassed or feel pressured not to post if you have less than perfect joints. I might have a simple solution to your problem.

[Bill Huber]

I got mine today, really really nice box joint jig without question.

The thing that I would change right off the bat is the instructions, I think they should divided it it 2 sections like they do the DVD. They could also put on the front of the instruction "We recommend you watch the video first". Each section would takes you all the way though the table saw and the second section takes you all the way though the router table.

I am setting it up for the router table, I do have to take my fence clear off but that is really not a big deal, just kind of a pain. I have a Jessem table and fence with a slider on it and it is heavy and takes up a lot of room on the bench. But on the other side of that it is nice to have a nice large work area.

Setting up the thing is really not a big deal, things all go together really easy. I did notice that in the video they used a long allen wrench to put the screws in the miter slide and they send you a short one which does not work very well, I used my screw driver type allens.

In use it works very well, the first joint I made was just a little loose and that was so easy to fix, turn the silver knob one mark and that was it, the next one fit just like I wanted. I think the kiss settings was not right on like it should have been, I know now how to do it like it should be done.

Bottom line it is a very well designed jig, it works much like the Rockler jig only much much better and more flexible. I will be putting some 220 grit sandpaper on the backer board just to make sure things don't slim. I understand all the safety angles but with the router table I do all my test and set up with the front guard off, it is a real pain to put on and take it off and then put it on and take it off, you get the idea. Once set up the guard is fine and keeps the wood straight.

You can make the pins any size you want up to 3/4 of an inch and that is nice. It is a little pricy but I do understand it is not a high volume item, but then you look at the cost of a good doweling jig the Ibox is not that high at all.

So if you like making boxes with box joints then I am sure you will love this jig.

[Alan Schaffter]

Bill,

Thanks for the review!

While I cut most of my box joints on a TS I occasionally cut some on my router table. I have a basic NYW router table and originally had the basic DIY fence, but no miter slot. When I was testing the prototype I-BOX, I had to add a slot- it was easy. I used a clamping guide and a handheld router with straight bit to cut a dado in the Formica over MDF table top. I roughed the back of a length of miter track and used liquid nails and a few screws to hold it in-place. It was easy and worked like a charm.

I am seriously considering adding another miter slot at right angle to the fence for use with the I-BOX. If I do, I'll add some bracing below.

[Bill Huber]

Bill,

Thanks for the review!

While I cut most of my box joints on a TS I occasionally cut some on my router table. I have a basic NYW router table and originally had the basic DIY fence, but no miter slot. When I was testing the prototype I-BOX, I had to add a slot- it was easy. I used a clamping guide and a handheld router with straight bit to cut a dado in the Formica over MDF table top. I roughed the back of a length of miter track and used liquid nails and a few screws to hold it in-place. It was easy and worked like a charm.

I am seriously considering adding another miter slot at right angle to the fence for use with the I-BOX. If I do, I'll add some bracing below.

It would be nice to have a miter slot at a right angle to the fence and then I wouldn't have to take the fence off to use the Ibox. I guess I could make an auxiliary table with a miter slot on it and use it when using the Ibox. I could just set it on top of the table and clamp it down, I think that just may work out fine.

[frank shic]

i just watched video and all i can say is WOW that's pretty amazing accuracy you've built into that little guy! the wooden hinges especially made me salivate although i'll probably hold off for a while (at least another month lol).

[Peter Kuhlman]

Got mine on the 14th. Working out of town so have not got to play with it although I have watched the DVD.
Question -
Are there any advantages to using it with the table saw versus the router table? For sure the table saw would be faster but if get cleaner more accurate cuts using the router table then I will set up for that. Have not put a miter slot on my home made router table (32" x 48" aircraft carrier) but will if that is a better way to cut box joints. I have always used my table saw for this using mostly the Freud box joint combo blades.
Thanks.

[Bill Huber]

Got mine on the 14th. Working out of town so have not got to play with it although I have watched the DVD.
Question -
Are there any advantages to using it with the table saw versus the router table? For sure the table saw would be faster but if get cleaner more accurate cuts using the router table then I will set up for that. Have not put a miter slot on my home made router table (32" x 48" aircraft carrier) but will if that is a better way to cut box joints. I have always used my table saw for this using mostly the Freud box joint combo blades.
Thanks.

I am not sure there is an advantage of one over the other. The table saw would be faster and I think work better with larger boards and pins. I think the router table would be better for smaller boards and pins. I plan on using the router table for 1/4" to 3/8" which is what I do most. If I go to say 1/2" I think I will move it to the table saw with a dado set.
That to me is one of the great things about the jig, it is very easy to move around and reset the pin width and position. On the table saw with a dado set you don't have to worry about the blade set up as much, no shimming, stack the blades to what you want, then set the kiss setting and the test cut and you are ready to go.

[Alan Schaffter]

Peter,

I haven't used it on my router table enough to say, but depending on the type of dado, it is possible to get a flatter bottom on the notches with a router bit. Some of the new dado and other "box joint blades" with flat top grind may rival a router table cut however. One advantage of using it on a router table - you can leave a regular blade on the tablesaw to cut, trim, rip, square, etc. your stock or extra boards- although when I was doing testing I used the dado blade to do this too

The two things about router table use- you should secure the work with a clamp like INCRA recommends, because the rotating bit wants to push it sideways. Also, as most people have noticed, routers, even when in a table, make more noise! :eek: I wear ear protection when using my router table.

Remember, when using the Freud box joint blade where you reverse the position of the blades for a different width cut, you must "kiss calibrate" for each setting. Only when using a true stacked dado is calibration not required when changing cut size. The video clearly illustrates why that is so.

[Peter Kuhlman]

Thank you Bill and Alan for the tips and info. Will try it on both the router table and table saw.

When using the Freud box joint blades, I realize why you have to reset the kiss-calib as the blades have offset teeth. One issue I had with that blade set is that when the teeth are nested for the narrow cut, there is VERY little room between the teeth and wouuld get build up of shavings between the teeth affecting the cut.
Again - thanks! Pete

[Alan Schaffter]

I am not sure there is an advantage of one over the other. The table saw would be faster and I think work better with larger boards and pins. I think the router table would be better for smaller boards and pins. I plan on using the router table for 1/4" to 3/8" which is what I do most. If I go to say 1/2" I think I will move it to the table saw with a dado set.
That to me is one of the great things about the jig, it is very easy to move around and reset the pin width and position. On the table saw with a dado set you don't have to worry about the blade set up as much, no shimming, stack the blades to what you want, then set the kiss setting and the test cut and you are ready to go.

I'll second Bill's last statement- yesterday while cutting box joints for a project- I set my Forrest Dado King for a 1/2" using the two 1/8" trimmers and two 1/8" chippers. I didn't bother messing with shims and test cuts to get a perfect 1/2" dado because it wasn't necessary for this project. Out of curiosity, after using the IBOX to cut the joints, which fit like a glove, I checked the dado width with digital calipers. Guess what? My 1/2" dado stack was cutting .486" wide dadoes! That is almost 1/64" under-sized. With most box joint jigs, that would result in a terrible joint!