Which hammer should I buy?

[Lee Schierer]

I plan on helping with a Habitat for Humanity house building project in June. I know I will be driving lots of nails of various sizes. I currently own a 16 Oz claw hammer, but know from last year that my hand and arm got tired after a couple of days driving nails. I suffer from carpal tunnel to a small degree. I was looking at the Borgs yesterday and they must have at least 14 or 15 different brands and styles of hammers (Estwing, Husky, DeWalt, Dead On Tools, Plumb, QLT, Hart, Nupla, Pull'R Holding Company, Klien, Kobalt, Stanley, Bostitch, Wise, task Force, and Vaughan)

What is a good hammer for general framing and sheeting work that is comfortable to work with and of good quality. I'm not interested in spending $80+ for a hammer. I'm thinking that maybe a 20 or 22 Oz hammer might be the way to go. Your thoughts are appreciated.

[Steve Thomas]

Framing... 22oz for sure, or else you'll have to strike an additional 3 or 4 blows for every nail, that can add up over to course of a day, say about 1000 nails. thats 3000 extra blows that you dont need to make.
I have the newish estwing with rubber handles its pretty good.

[John A langley]

Lee - Glad to hear you are helping out Habitat. I would suggest a Vaughn 22 oz straight claw wood handle hammer. The good thing about wood hanndles, it will absorb the blow better than metal or fiberglass. The bad thing it, you can break the handle pugging a nail. So also buy yourself a small bar or cat's paw. Also if you have to get a nail out with the hammer a sideways motion rather than front to back seems to work better. I suggest you do not buy the waffle face They are hard on the fingers Also scar up the face with a piece of 100 or 80 grit sand paper. The new head won't be quite so slippery.

[Sam Murdoch]

A Stanley ANTIVIBE 20 0r 22 oz. If you don't get an antivibe (of some sort) hammer you will pay in the end. This particular model saved me after weeks of true suffering and a locked up elbow. Had to turn in my Estwing leather wrap, but I have never regretted the Stanley Antivibe.

[Mike Wilkins]

I have had one of the Hart framing hammers for years, and it is great. Waffle head design; I forget the weight, but it is hefty enough to drive 16D nails in 3 strikes, sometimes 4. Hickory handle to absorb the impacts. The latest from Stanley are all metal but designed to be impact absorbing.
Nice to know there are others like me who drive nails the old fashioned way.

[Scott T Smith]

In 2002 I purchased a Stiletto titanium hammer, and have never regretted it. Before it, my elbow's would ache up a storm after a day spent pounding nails. Afterward, much less pain (if any).

It's been used so much the grooves on the face are totally worn smooth. It's still my go-to hammer, and everybody that has worked at the farm these past 10 years will choose it over any others, if they get the chance.

Not cheap, but well worth it, especially in your situation.

I like the wooden handle version with the crook at the bottom end.

[Chris Tsutsui]

For about $60, i've seen Home Depot sell Dewalt's Mig Weld Hammer. It also uses the idea that a lighter hammer can utilize a higher velocity to function like a heavier hammer. The end result is less fatigue.

I have about 4 estwig hammers and those seem like they will last me a lifetime. A 22oz, 16oz, roofing, and masonry chipping hammer.

I don't think I will buy another fiberglass handle hammer again after breaking one prying out a nail.

[Dave Houseal]

I've got the Dead-On tools 22oz waffle head. Love it, but wish I'd gotten the smooth face. It has a very long handle, which is fantastic when you're working in an open area. Nails just jump into the wood. The downside is that the long handle is a little difficult to handle in tight spaces. I think that it handles vibration very well compared to other steal hammers I've used.

[Randy Reitz]

I've been going on Habitat trips with our youth group for several years now. Since they won't allow air-guns with the youth on site I carry two hammers, a wooden handled 20 oz California Framer with waffle face for days when we're driving lots of nails, and a 16 oz Estwing leather handle for general use.

Most volunteers don't swing a hammer very much in their day jobs, even the professionals, it's easy to get some repetitive stress injuries if you don't ease into it. That said, the action and sound of volunteers driving nails is an important part of the Habitat experience.

[Van Huskey]

I would say a Hammer N4400 and Rod S. would say a K3 of some sort... :D

My choice is a Estwing 22oz waffle head BUT I don't swing one a lot, when I am doing the little personal framing I would be using a gun for 90+% of the nails. One of the lower vibe hammers would be on my radar if I was going to hammer framing nails all day.

[Patrick McCarthy]

I would say a Hammer N4400 and Rod S. would say a K3 [Winner] of some sort... :D.

EXACTLY what I was thinking when I saw the title . . . . . and I am sure I am NOT alone!

[Clint Olver]

A Stanley ANTIVIBE 20 0r 22 oz. ...... I have never regretted the Stanley Antivibe.

Agreed. Of all the sub $50 hammers out there that I've tried, this one feels the best in my hand, performs well, and is built to last.

C

[Ron Natalie]

I have a 20oz fiberglass handled hammer that I've bought while helping a friend build his house 30 years ago. It's been my "go to" hammer ever since. I've got others, but ol' red is my favorite.

[Jim Matthews]

I bought my Dad a pair of Duluth Trading anti-vibe gloves (http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-accessories/mens-work-gloves/30510.aspx) for a similar Habitat build.
He suffers from a "trigger finger" that locks in the flexed position with over use.

They're warm, so you may need to rinse them out, each day but they may help you last longer.

[Bryan Rocker]

Hey Fellow Habitatter, I bought a stanley anti-vibe hammer. It works very well and what I liked about it is that it has a small rubber curl at the end that lets the hammer stay in your hand even when its hot and humid out.....Have fun out there....On a side note, when I was doing a lot of framing for HFH, us regulars used Pasload framers....I like them so much I purchased one myself used.....

Bryan

[keith micinski]

I can't believe that there are so many other options then Estwing being suggested. My father has owned a roofing company and I don't think we have had anything but estwing for 15 years now. I personally use a roofing hatchet for everything now because I can't even swing a regular hammer anymore without darn near killing myself.

[Steven Green]

Plumb 24 oz. fiberglass handle. 50 years in the trade and it's the best I ever used.

[Ron Natalie]

I just looked because frankly I forgotten, but ol' red is indeed a Plumb.

[Michael Mayo]

I bought a 22 oz. HF hammer looks like an Estwing but cost me like $10 I think and it has worked perfectly. I don't swing a hammer all that often so spending a ton of money on a hammer that wouldn't get used a ton was not in the budget. I did buy the wife a nice hammer at the BORG though as she needed something a little more specialized not being a strong a the male counter part. I think hers was 16 oz. but she seemed to like it when we were doing our roof last fall.

[Brian LaShomb]

Agreed. Of all the sub $50 hammers out there that I've tried, this one feels the best in my hand, performs well, and is built to last.

C

Another vote from me, mine looks like hell and has been through alot of framing projects over the past 10 years. But it still feels great.

[Mac McQuinn]

I've used a wooden handled Hart 21 oz California Framer for 17 years along a with a garage glove on the hammer holding hand. Vibration isn't a issue. I believe the late Larry Haun use a Hart and watching him tap/set a 16D nail followed by one easy swing to sink the nail is truly a thing of beauty. The thing is he rotated nails in his left hand to have the next one always in position as he tap/set and hammered it home, one after another. Larry wasn't huge guy and I believe eye to hand focus along with a sweet swinging movement was his secret. IMO, This type of swing can only be accomplished by continuous practice and developing a rhythm. Nice tools are great although the ability to use them well is a art.

While I like the waffle faced California Framer, make sure you don't miss....That nice, sharply serrated waffle face makes a great meat tenderizer.

Mac

[Ellen Benkin]

I also vote for the titanium head with a wooden handle. You will never regret it and lots of your fellow Habitaters will be wanting to borrow it. And let the hammer do the work!

[Von Bickley]

I have worked with the 20 and 22 oz. hammers, and the heavy hammers hurt me.

My favorite hammer for framing is the EstWing E316C 16 oz. Curved Claw Hammer Smooth Face.

[phil harold]

Wood handle

In my pouch now is a stanley fat max
I also will rasp and sand small indentations to match my finger grip

did I mention to get one with a wooden handle

[Jeff Duncan]

Unfortunately I don't think any hammer is going to prevent you from being in pain after swinging all day. Ideally what you want is a framing gun, faster, easier, and to a degree a better fastener too, (those nails don't come out easily). The cost is the obvious deterrent, but I wonder if you could find a local contractor who would be willing to lend a couple tools for the day you'll be working?

I can promise you one thing, after you use one once, you'll never want to swing a hammer again;)

good luck,
JeffD

[Rick Moyer]

Unfortunately I don't think any hammer is going to prevent you from being in pain after swinging all day. Ideally what you want is a framing gun, faster, easier, and to a degree a better fastener too, (those nails don't come out easily). The cost is the obvious deterrent, but I wonder if you could find a local contractor who would be willing to lend a couple tools for the day you'll be working?

I can promise you one thing, after you use one once, you'll never want to swing a hammer again;)

good luck,
JeffD


I've been going on Habitat trips with our youth group for several years now. Since they won't allow air-guns with the youth on site I carry two hammers, a wooden handled 20 oz California Framer with waffle face for days when we're driving lots of nails, and a 16 oz Estwing leather handle for general use.

Most volunteers don't swing a hammer very much in their day jobs, even the professionals, it's easy to get some repetitive stress injuries if you don't ease into it. That said, the action and sound of volunteers driving nails is an important part of the Habitat experience.
You may have missed this point.

[Jeff Duncan]

You may have missed this point.

Possibly Rick, but that quote wasn't from the OP:confused:

Maybe the rules are universal? I have no idea, but since the OP didn't mention anything about a youth group, or any ban on powered nailers, I wasn't going to assume, I'll leave that to....well, others;)

JeffD

[Lee Schierer]

Possibly Rick, but that quote wasn't from the OP:confused:

Maybe the rules are universal? I have no idea, but since the OP didn't mention anything about a youth group, or any ban on powered nailers, I wasn't going to assume, I'll leave that to....well, others;)

JeffD

I don't know why, but our local Habitat does not allow power nailers on their house building sites. My carpal tunnel only crops up when I do lots of nailing and I'm looking for a hammer that would be less stressful than my current hammer.

[Jeff Duncan]

I don't know why, but our local Habitat does not allow power nailers on their house building sites. My carpal tunnel only crops up when I do lots of nailing and I'm looking for a hammer that would be less stressful than my current hammer.

Believe me Lee, I know where your coming from. I couldn't do it myself. Well let me re-phrase, I could do it, I can even swing with both arms, but my left wrist is already a bit worse for wear and would be out of commission for a couple days after. And as I'm self employed, that would be bad:(

Unfortunately I don't think the hammer is going to make as much difference. It will help a little, but it's the repetitive aspect of swinging it that is going to bite you. I do wish you luck though as it's a very worthy cause. I just don't understand why they wouldn't make it quite a bit easier, not to mention many times faster, for people to do the building with power nailers? Then again it's not for me to decide so.....

good luck,
jeffD

[Matt McColley]

If you're not in really good condition, I think you might find that swinging a 24 will turn your arm into jelly much faster than you might think. I was in excellent shape when I built my house and still, the 24 oz Eastwing gave me rubber arms.

Ymmv, but if more is automatically better, just grab a 5 lb sledge.

[Larry Edgerton]

I don't know why, but our local Habitat does not allow power nailers on their house building sites. .

Really? Thats just nonsense.

I have used a True Temper 20 oz. long handle for ever. It is so well balanced that I use it for trim as well. When they quit making them I ordered 2 dozen. I have three left.

They can still be found on ebay, and a company called Barco originally made them for True Temper. Stanleys had one that looked like it but the rubber on the handle was less grippy, and the handle was mild steel instead of Chrome-Moly.

If I had more I'd give you one. I used to give them to every new employee. I used to throw their Estwings out in the lake and hand them a Rocket.

Larry

[Floyd Mah]

Perhaps you should examine your technique. It might not be the hammer that makes the biggest difference. Excuse the detail following, but since you needed to ask about the hammer, I'm assuming that your day job is not carpentry. I'm not an expert on home carpentry, but having used a hammer on occasion, I would compare the technique to swinging a tennis racket on serving. Your main goal is to accelerate the head of the hammer (or racquet), the handle is only there for you to get the head in motion. Think of throwing the hammer head at the nail. If you form a rigid attachment to the handle with your hand or grip, then you would absorb the shock of the hammer's handle when you strike the nail. That would be very fatiguing. In my opinion, if you are going to be using a hammer on a prolonged basis throughout a day, your ideal hammer is one that is not too heavy, but still has enough mass so that when you swing it with the required force, it will drive the nail in. I guess what I am trying to say is that only you can decide what's a comfortable weight to swing, despite all the great recommendations. Once you have a good technique, you can sink a 3" nail into 2x lumber using just two or three blows with a relatively light hammer.

[Sam Murdoch]

. Once you have a good technique, you can sink a 3" nail into 2x lumber using just two or three blows with a relatively light hammer.



With respect, I'd like to see the video supporting that theory, and then see the doctor's report on the condition of the hammerer's elbow.

[John Christian]

i bet i have a dozen hammers around some fiberglass with 16 to 22 oz heads and 3 or four estwings. when i used to swing a hammer regularly, for money, my favorite was a 28 oz Plumb with a wooden handle. i still have the head some where. i think a wooden handle is best to maximize striking power and minimise strain

[Van Huskey]

What I am gathering is hammers are like drivers for golfers. Everyone has tried more than one (usually many) and everyone has their favorite. I also am like Larry the idea of no nail guns seems nuts, but I can see the reasoning.

[Zach Callum]

In 2002 I purchased a Stiletto titanium hammer, and have never regretted it. Before it, my elbow's would ache up a storm after a day spent pounding nails. Afterward, much less pain (if any).

It's been used so much the grooves on the face are totally worn smooth. It's still my go-to hammer, and everybody that has worked at the farm these past 10 years will choose it over any others, if they get the chance.

Not cheap, but well worth it, especially in your situation.

I like the wooden handle version with the crook at the bottom end.


Totally agree.

[Floyd Mah]

With respect, I'd like to see the video supporting that theory, and then see the doctor's report on the condition of the hammerer's elbow.

Took me a few minutes to find this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dqM7ekLfSmA&feature=related). Especially since everyone uses pneumatic tools these days. Admittedly, this guy is a pro, but around 1:40 he starts using framing nails and a hammer to pound nails in. Usually takes him three blows, a few times he took four blows. I tried it myself in the garage, but having not been using a hammer regularly, I cannot count myself an expert. I used a 20 oz. hammer, at the low end of the hammers mentioned here. I did not count the first tap to embed the nail the first 1/4" since I didn't want to sacrifice my hand to prove this point. I was able to sink all but the last 1/4" of a 3" nail with three blows. Ok, so not exactly 2-3 blows, but certainly respectable for my first attempt.

As for the elbow injury, watch his technique. He bounces the hammer head off the nail. He never, except when pounding the sheathing, holds the hammer tightly in his hand (which would make his whole arm, up to his shoulder, absorb the blow of the hammer). He also, because of his experience, is able to raise the hammer higher above the point of impact and uses the energy of the falling hammer head to drive the nail. I suspect those people who experience a lot of elbow pain, besides the repetitive stress injury, have the following factors: too heavy a hammer, off-center hits on the nail (causing the hammer head to twist the handle), and a rigid grip on the handle, thereby absorbing the shock of the hammer blows.

[Bruce Darrow]

When I was framing (another lifetime ago.....) in CO, the hammer of choice was a Vaughn 28 oz - wooden handled, waffle headed. I've still got the old beast - it's displayed for sentimental reasons on my pegboard. When I was prepping to build my current house, about ten years ago, knowing I was going to be driving 20's (I built with native rough sawn spruce - full 2" thick), I bought another Vaughn, this one 24 oz, same configuration. Even though I still had the technique (see below), I figured I wouldn't want to swing that 28 all day long.

The 24 is a very nice hammer. Driving into spruce, as opposed to the fir in CO, it has plenty enough weight and balance to drive even 20's in 2 blows - set it and swat it.

The technique is to use the wrist and let the hammer just drop onto the nail to set it, then snap the wrist on the second swing to drive it home. Very little arm or shoulder, lots of wrist. The bigger hammers, used correctly, are actually much less fatiguing than smaller ones. The larger circumference heads make mishits less likely, and a (sharp) waffle also helps drive a nail straight if slightly mishit. A complete miss on the set however does result in the aforementioned meat tenderization!

The Vaughns are reasonably priced - I'm with those who choke at the thought of an $80 + hammer. If you value the advantage of a sharp waffle, don't hit anything other than nails, though. No cat's paws, wonderbars, rocks, cinderblocks, etc. We used to carry a second, smooth face hammer for those tasks, but if you aren't in the rush that a pro framing crew had to be in prior to the advent of pneumatics, you could just go get one.....or, in a pinch, use the side of the hammer.

Have a ball - framing can be a lot of fun. Lots of visual accomplishment in a short period of time. I (sometimes......) miss it.

[Floyd Mah]

I have to defer to Bruce's better description of the wrist action in the act of hammering, especially since he is also claiming to be able to drive in a substantial nail with a few(2) blows. I am curious to know if he experienced any injuries attributable to the technique that he described.

[Bruce Darrow]

Well, Floyd, as I approach the big 6-0, I can't say that any of my increasing minor aches and pains aren't attributable to repetitive actions in my early years, but......

My wrists are not particularly problematic. I do have recurring bouts of "tennis (read carpenter's) elbow". My shoulders are fine. My left hip really worries me, long term. Tendons in both thumbs have gotten inflamed. I currently have one very sore knee. My neck has given me problems. And on and on it goes. Youth is wasted on the young. Poor me.

Of course, many years spent ski racing (with some spectacular crashes) and guiding whitewater paddle rafts (one sided muscular development - creates major imbalances) might have something to do with all my aches......years of carpentry and woodworking are just more wear and tear. Maybe I should have just sat on the couch all these years!

[John A langley]

Floyd - When I framed in California it was set and sink. Two blows 98% of the framers used wooden handle hammers. I suffer pretty much from the same ailments as Bruce does. and I do not attribute it all to framing - some of it is just damn old age. I got ten years on Bruce. And I will restate the OP, a wooden handle hammer is the only way to go.

[Rick Moyer]

Possibly Rick, but that quote wasn't from the OP:confused:

Maybe the rules are universal? I have no idea, but since the OP didn't mention anything about a youth group, or any ban on powered nailers, I wasn't going to assume, I'll leave that to....well, others;)

JeffD

Your right , Jeff. My bad, sorry!

[Lee Schierer]

Okay, so here's an update. After considering all the suggestions here, I tried several prospective hammers in the store for "feel". I ended up buying a 20 Oz Estwing. I worked all week a the local Habitat project. I pounded a lot of nails mostly 10d and 16d sinkers. The Estwing claimed to have the "World's Best Shock Reduction Grip" The Estwing performed much better than my old hammer particularly when driving the 16d nails. My hand and wrist held up pretty well considering that I don't pound nails every day. Other than the ringing on every hit on a nail, I'm satisfied with the hammer.

[Rick Thom]

Yes, why not pneumatic nailer and compressor? Much more efficient.

[Lee Schierer]

Yes, why not pneumatic nailer and compressor? Much more efficient.


Apparently Habitat International does not allow powered nailers in their rules, although some local Habitat Organizations do. Our local organization does not allow power nailers of any type as there are many non-professional people working on each project. The sound of 15-20 people nailing is pretty impressive.