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Ellen Crane
03-31-2005, 10:32 PM
Hi - I'm interested in engraving wine bottles and glasses for a friends wedding and I've seen some that have some gold paint 'inlaid' in the engraving. Any hints or suggestions for me on what to use. I've tried Rub n' Buff, but that seems to come off when I try to clean it up.

Thanks so much..

Ellen Crane - Irving Texas
GSOLFOT
http://www.riverswood.com

Glenn Palhof
03-31-2005, 11:07 PM
Hi
I read your request and was wondering if you are just lasering? I do different methods 1 laser a stencil apply to glass then blast with a ultra fine grit. 2 make a photo positive develop apply to glass blast with ultra fine grit. 3 design in freehand cut on plotter cutter,apply to glass, deweed, blast with regular screened sand. This gives me depth to apply a fill.You can see some of my work at my site. www.kglass.com Ihave not found the laser able to cut deep enough for me.hope this help.
glenn palhof

William Capman
04-01-2005, 8:23 AM
Glenn,

I am also interested in engraving or sandblasting some wine bottles.

What kind of stencil material do you use and recommend. I would prefer a adhesive backed stencil material that I could laser in the flat, off the bottle and then applied. However, I am reading that the only method seems to be an adhesive backed photo-resist that requires a developing step. Do you know of any material that can be lasered in the flat and then applied.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Bill Capman

Wachusett Laser Crafts

Rodne Gold
04-01-2005, 5:52 PM
Either polyester based vinyls (most mirror vinyls , sliver or gold are)
Or if you want to spend a lot of money , Spectrum lights will do.
Apply both using a transfer tape , Vector cut and weed large areas and raster engrave fine detail.
Problems you will have will be small insides of AaBb's etc as there is almost no adhesion to the transfer tape and very little on the glass so removing from the backing , application and blasting might be a problem.

Glenn Palhof
04-01-2005, 5:53 PM
Hi Bill

I have been using the least expensive stuff which is contact paper for about 18 yrs. we have been putting this in our plotter cutter or lasering to get the paper to burn then apply to small glass with transfer tape. about 25 to 35 psi with gun pointing squarly at glass do not shoot at an angle as you may lift you resist. When lasering resist be sure to try and exhaust off fumes. After you are finished inspect your work .If needed do touch up .I try to blast as though i am spray painting. start your blast before you come in conntact with surface,this releives peak air pressure to bleed off.I purchase 25 yd rolls. After you have finished we hose our job with cold water ,then with a soft brush with dish soap and cold water. the cold water is the secret in not having the contact glue sticking to your project. alignment is simple use fine tip "sharpie" make registration marks on glass with lasered mask before you put on transfer tape .you will be able to see through transfer tape .I blast so many different ways .you could spend a week just seeing the different formats. hope this is of some help. glenn :)

Jerry Allen
04-01-2005, 7:33 PM
I used to use Raysist sand blasting mask before I got my laser. I had hoped the laser would do a better job than it does and ended up reverting to the blaster. I still used the Raysist photo mask since it is too expensive to just trash. The good news is that at least I can avoid the photo process and get consistent results with the mask using the laser. I would not like to deal with weeding some of the tiny stuff. Unfortunately I found that I could not just cut the mask flat and then apply it. Fortunately I have a rotary attachment and apply the mask to the bottle or glass and then etch it. Works very well. I just ran out of Raysist and so ordered some Photobrasive mask from Laserbits. I haven't tried it yet but will soon. I did notice later that it was cheaper directly from Photobrasive.
I fill occasionally with gold or silver acrylic enamel to bring out some lettering or design.

David Takes
04-01-2005, 8:37 PM
Jerry,

Specialty Tapes carries a laser mask called Lazer's Edge. It is red in color and has the same characteristics as the product from Photobrasive. I pay $25 for a 6" x 36' roll.

David Takes
Expressions Engraved
St. Joseph, MO

Jerry Allen
04-01-2005, 8:53 PM
Jerry,

Specialty Tapes carries a laser mask called Lazer's Edge. It is red in color and has the same characteristics as the product from Photobrasive. I pay $25 for a 6" x 36' roll.

David Takes
Expressions Engraved
St. Joseph, MO

Thanks David,
I'll check it out. I paid ~$21 for Photobrasive. Photobrasive quotes about $9 less for a 100 foot roll than Laserbits. I just noticed however that you stated 36'.
How do you feel about the quality and ease of use? What is the thickness you use?

Jerry Allen
04-02-2005, 9:40 AM
Glenn,

What is that machine you are using?
Pretty beefy.

Glenn Palhof
04-02-2005, 5:33 PM
Hi Jerry
I guess you could say overkill. I decided on this size machine to work on large scale pieces. I purchased it in 2002. It is not for hi speed like everyone elses. At some point i will look into another machine.This forum is helping me see what other people are doing and what machines have backup support.There is so many subjects here to study.We spent about 6 or 8 months developing a flow chart on different materials.When we got the machine there wasn't much support or information other then basic do this and push start. I hope to ask some questions at some point.I knew the laser would be an excellent addition to our stainedglass business.We have learned how to use the laser to do instant fusing. you can see this at our web site in the 'religion' gallery.You could learn to use stained glass with your laser.WE do our own drawings"pen & ink" for the laser, I hope to publish a disk for artists and resize them to to their specs. well i hope you might have another question.

glenn

Jerry Allen
04-02-2005, 7:05 PM
Glenn,
What is the brand?
What is fusing?
Is it CO2 or YAG?
The gantry looks big enough to launch a small ship.

Glenn Palhof
04-02-2005, 11:59 PM
Hi Jerry,
my machine is a vytek co2 39 watt. We do drawings that are designed to do 4x5ft. granite floors in one shot.Run time 17 to 20 hours depending on whit space.this is in the raster mode. We will hopefully change the time problem when we convert the machine to read vector. This has been ok for photos but most of our work is in the vector making our machine a slug when it comes to getting the job done. It is a good machine in terms of physical construction.I want to keep reading the forums to learn about machines that are smaller in size to compliment what we aleady have.WE have designed our own vacume system and are currertly working on a device to rotate bottles to perpare for sandblasting.well the clocks have changed so will talk to you later
glenn