OK I give!

[Byron Trantham]

I need to cut a piece of plywood with a 49 degree edge. I have a left tilt TS. The piece I want is "the cutoff" when the blade is set to 41 degrees. I can't put the fence on the "cut off side" side of the blade. The piece to be cut is 18 1/6" W x 37" long. I need to bevel the long edge. There's got to be a way to do this but I be darned if I can come up with a method.

H E L P!

[Steve Cox]

Byron, I'm having trouble picturing ths. Do you need a standing or under bevel on that 41 degree edge? What is the width of the kept piece? A little more info would help a lot.

[Byron Trantham]

Let's see if I can describe it a little better. We have a piece of plywood 18 1/6" W x 37" L. We want long edge beveled 41 degrees on the right edge and 49 degrees on the left edge.
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/ ______________\ Best I can do with text characters but you get the idea.

[JayStPeter]

This page may give you an idea.

http://www.cjohnhebert.com/Bed.htm

Jay

[Steve Cox]

You might want to try this on the jointer. It would be easy to set the angle there but it won't do your knives much good and you might get a lot of tearout depending on your plywood. Another option involving some trial and error is to place a thin shim under the plywood on the tablesaw in order to induce some angle that in conjunction with the sawblade will give you 49 degrees. Find a spot by sighting along the blade and once the shim is where it needs to be use double stick tape to hold in in place.

[Byron Trantham]

Here is what I came up with. This happens to work in this case because of the width of the board. I don't know what I would do if it was wider.

The "fence" is clamped very well. The magnetic feather boards serve two purposes. The one closest to me keeps the stock against the fence AND pushed down. The farthest away from me keeps it down only. I didn't want resulting edge to get damaged as a result of the pressure of the feather board.

Does anyone see safety issues here?

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Byron, I understand you need to bevel both edges of the wood, one 41 degrees and the other 49 degrees. Is that correct? Cut the 41 degree flat on the table and the other vertical at the same angle.

[Steve Cox]

Not a bad solution. I didn't understand why you couldn't move the fence to the left side which would have solved your problems. I don't like the featherboard behind the blade. I'm not sure how much of a cutoff you are going to have but that featherboard could push it into the blade with a potential for kickback.

[Jim Becker]

Could you turn the piece over and cut at 4º, keeping the one on the fence side?? (Or maybe I'm just dreaming here...)

[Byron Trantham]

Steve, the cutoff is 3/4 wide. I'm cutting the edge so the cutoff is negligible though I will make sure there is clearance for "the cutoff". Thanks for the heads up.

Jim, If I cut at 4 degrees the result will be 4 degrees. Right? The cutoff would be 86 degrees.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, If I cut at 4 degrees the result will be 4 degrees. Right? The cutoff would be 86 degrees.

So, I wasn't a math major... ;)

[Byron Trantham]

So, I wasn't a math major... ;)

Me either! :D

[Stephen Dixon]

This is easily done with a verticle panel raising jig. I'm not computer or digital camera literate so I can't show you a link or a picture, but if you go to Norm's website at NewYankee.com and check his project on jigs you would see what I mean.
Steve

[Mike Cutler]

Byron. Yes I see safety issues with you setup. You would be "pinching" the material between your fence and the blade.
Steve is right, for this application a vertical panel sled is appropiate. Leave the blade at 90 deg. to the table and make a sled that would support the material at the reflex of the angle you need, ie 41 for the 49 and 49 for the 41 degree. There have been many variations of this sled. Incidently this is the jig used to make raised panels on the tablesaw. A Google search may help you.

[Michael Ballent]

Not a bad solution. I didn't understand why you couldn't move the fence to the left side which would have solved your problems. I don't like the featherboard behind the blade. I'm not sure how much of a cutoff you are going to have but that featherboard could push it into the blade with a potential for kickback.

The fence he is using may not be a Biesmeyer clone/original so I may not work to the left of the blade, as you may notice on the pic there is no ruler to the left... As long as he is using the Grip Tite as a hold down and it is shifted so the feather board is not touching the work it should be good to go.

[Doug Shepard]

What about a hand held circular saw and straight edge clamped to the ply?

[Bill Neely]

If I am understanding the problem correctly you are wanting a 49 degree edge. Can't get there from here. You won't be able to cut anything more than a 45 on a tablesaw without making a jig to tilt the work. With your 41 degree cut if you take the waste piece - turn it over and measure the bevel = 41 degrees - no?

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Okay what am I missing? You have 90 degrees between the table and fence. If you tilt the glade to 45 degrees and cut the piece flat you'll have two pieces with 45 degrees angles right? So adjust the blade to 41 degrees and cut the board on its side and you'll have a 41 and 49 degree angle no?

[Bill Neely]

Sorry, missed something completely, senior moment.:confused:

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Since he said plywood...my solution is a clamped guide rail and a circ saw....easiest and safest way to do it.

[Bob Hovde]

Does this work?

1. Cut the board to 18 in wide.
2. Tilt blade to 41 deg
3. Adjust fence on right side of blade so that the blade will cut just through the top left edge. This leaves a 49 deg cut on one edge.
4. Attach a wide board to the left side of the fence and adjust it so that the blade just touches it at the bottom edge.
5. Put the panel vertical with the "right" edge down. This will result in a 41 deg edge.

Bob