Well, it is underway

[steven c newman]

Got some work on a bench done last night. I split a 4x6 beam down the middle, the "hard way". Use a circ saw to make a kerf cut down each side, the grabbe a splitting maul and sledge. One "tap" at the end, and near the middle, and two halves were laying around on the floor. needed the handplanes to flatten each half, and the edges. Looked so good, I decided to add a couple other planks and make a top for the bench. 231782231783231784231785One plank was a 2x4. That short one was also an Oak. The empty space will be a small toolwell. 231786 I even used a "New" #80 scraper plane I had bought @ $4. Ok, top is in the clamps, how about some legs for it to stand on? I had four knarly, full of old nails, and splits 4x6s. About 30" or so long. Ah, legs! I also had some oak stock, in the 2x3 size, and one in the 2x4 size. Didn't have enough 2x3s. I needed to cut rabates to allow these to be stretchers between the legs. I'll add others later. Grabbed the 26" long crosscut saw, and started cutting. Split off the waste with a framer chisel, a 1' regular chisel, and a couple of handplanes. 231787231788231789Why the big handsaw? A 12" backsaw (longest I have) would take all day. I also needed some dados for the lower stretchers. After doing ONE the neander way , I went and got an OLD circ. saw. All metal, back when Craftsman was a good brand. A few kerf cuts, split out the waste, and a clean-up. and all four were done. :D Then it was time for the "Dry Fit'.

[steven c newman]

A dry fit was also done.231790 with both the leg assemblies. Some Titebond, and some screws to hold it in place while the glue set up. I'll go back and pin things up, later. I also set the now dry top inplace, so I can measure for the long stretchers. A bottom for the toolwell, and side "skirts" are next231791 But, it was getting late in the day, so things can wait until this weekend....

[steven c newman]

Seem to be the only one talking here.... OK, as for them skirt boards, I have a few 2x8 pine planks. One for each long side, and one for each end. This is to be just a bench to do a LOT of hand plane work on. I plan to keep a couple planes handy in the toolwell, so that they are close at hand. The rest will/ might be put on the shlf under the bench, at least the shorter ones. I wanted a bench that will stay put as i plane a board, tired of ones that walk across the shop floor faster than I do. There MAY be a plank I can use as that shelf, long enough to come through the legs. All the material so far has been recycled Barn wood on hand. That pine strip down the center? Might get some holes drilled in it, for some shop made "holdfasts". Top is (at the moment) 17" wide. If I add the skirt boards, it MIGHT get to be over 20" wide. Going to be fun, and, i have all summer long to finish this project.

[Terry Beadle]

The "skirt boards" are a good idea. I would also suggest you run a 2 X 6 near the floor legs on each long side, or at least the back side. This will prevent racking of the joints and add a bit of heft to the table weight. You want a good bit of weight to the bench to make the plane-ing go easy. I do recommend putting a "skirt board" on both the front and back. That way you can add a tool storage bin below that will be short enough not to bother clamping and pin action on the table top and give you access to planes, chisels etc. stored handily close.

A 20 inch wide bench is fine. Take a look at a Japanese bench for a radical comparison. They are usually less than 12 inches and just really a beam with a sliding dovetailed stop here and there.

You haven't mentioned your plans for a vice ( if any ) or a planing bench stop ( or two ). Putting a bench stop about 6 inches or more wide that can be lowered below the surface of the table or raised is a good idea, very cost effective ( practically nada ) and will allow you to deal with wide as well as thin stock.

The idea of some holes in the table top to put current use chisels, marking guages etc is also a good idea. You can make a small portable tool holder, made to your tool sizes and work preferences that can be moved around on the bench. Some times called a tool caddy. You can also make some bench jacks that can make the table flush skirt boards more effective. Here's a url : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDg6z20e4QM&feature=relmfu
This guy has a really corny sense of humor but gets the point across. Nothing like a chuckle to make a smile !

Enjoy the process !

[Jim Koepke]

Seem to be the only one talking here....

My only excuse is having to take the wife into Oregon yesterday. It kept me away from the computer all day.

Looks like a useable bench. How long is it?

jtk

[steven c newman]

With the skirts on each end, about 60". I'm going for a "nickolson style" of bench.. As for a vise, BUDGET< BUDGET< BUDGET.... Seems to be the key word here. making do without a lot of $$$. I do have a few older "pony" clamps, and i could add a wood face to one. Hmmm. Might be a way to add the "Chop" to this bench????

[Andrew Pitonyak]

As for a vise, BUDGET< BUDGET< BUDGET.... Seems to be the key word here. making do without a lot of $$$. I do have a few older "pony" clamps, and i could add a wood face to one. Hmmm. Might be a way to add the "Chop" to this bench????

You seem to be using the word budget a lot, yet that wood likes it might cost a fortune if you had to buy it :-)

Looks good to me!

[steven c newman]

Cost of the wood? Just the gas in the van to bring it to the shop, otherwise, it was free wood. I still have two other 4x6s, about 4' long...........

[Bill White]

Ya might wanna rethink the holdfasts in pine. They might deflect due to the relative softness of pine.
Bill

[Jim Neeley]

Lookin' good, Steven... :)

[steven c newman]

Added some skirts tonight, had to cover up them "naked' ugly legs...231987231988231989even tried some dovetails on ONE end. Tool well end is just a butt joint, glued and screwed. used a few of my planes to flatten the top a bit. Seems it cupped a bit out of the clamps. Need levelers for the legs, pole barn floors are not exactly levelest things going. I will be adding the bottom stretchers on the next trip out to the woodshop. As for those handplanes.....231991 got that Buck Brothers #5 Jack plane tuned just about right.....

[Jim Ritter]

My hand tool bench is only 22" wide and the back 5" is a tool well. I don't miss the 8" the the other bench in my shop has.

[Kenneth Speed]

Hi Steve,

I've learned that woodworking benches are intensely personal and individual items so I, for one, am hesitant to make suggestions or criticisms. It looks like you're making a nice sturdy bench and I get the sense that you know your requirements well enough to make a bench to suit your needs. What more can one ask?

Here's an example of what I'm talking about: I'd be inclined to put a shelf on the leg braces on the bottom of the bench and put things on it (preferably things that are fairly heavy and that I use frequently). My bench is constructed differently than yours and has a shelf below the top where I keep my bench planes and another lower shelf that has other tools. I get the feeling your bench is going to be in a pole barn so you may choose a different method of storing your tools.

[steven c newman]

It's already heavy. I do intend to place a bottom shelf, if nothing more that a place to store my planes. Working on some other details, like a "hook' at one end. I still have two 4x6x36" pieces from those beams. Might be able to chop a hook out of one. Hole is for a small tool well. Well might get a plywood bottom, or I'll route out a rabbet around the edges to allow a bin to sit in there. Easier to clean out, that way. Hmmm, metal, or plastic bin???? Not filling those screw holes just yet, as the screws MIGHt be replaced by lags.


A vise or two? THAT is a work in progress itself. Might be a leg vise, for now. Details as i go along. Maybe I can get St. Roy to help out????

[steven c newman]

Bench sizes: Height=33-1/4", Width of top=19-3/4", Length of top=57-1/2" Legs are 4x6s Skirt boards are 2x10s Planks for the top are 8/4" planned down to about 1-3/4" thick.


I did go out an cobble a leg vise last night. Got to use a few handplanes, planing down a plank of beech 2x6 that I split off a 4x6 beam. Pipe clamp modified for the "screw", still working on the bottom joint. Also laid out for a Wagon style vise...232160232161232162232163First photo: Handyman 1204 cleaning up from the Worth #5 jack plane, Second photo: H-F#33 Scrub plane at work, Third photo: leg vise holding a 2x10, Fourth photo: Wagon vise parts?????

Just materials I have on hand. Nothing real fancy, just built "Hell fer stout".

[Maurice Ungaro]

Steve, good job with going ahead and getting it built. Too many of us spend more time planning and dreaming about a new bench!

[steven c newman]

Thank you. If I find i need something made, why wait around. Tablesaw "bench" wasn't getting it done, because i'd have to clear it off to use the saw. Try to plane something, wind up chasing the saw across the floor. New bench stays put, that is what i wanted. Working on clamping stuff now....

[Rusty Quinn]

Did you lose sleep over any 1/64th-inch gaps? No. Did you make it so pretty you're afraid to use it? No. Did you have fun making it? Sounds like a yes. Three right answers!

[steven c newman]

Trying to build ( in my head, right now) a wagon vise. Thinking about a short pipe, a pipe clamp, a block for the wagon, and a couple strips for it to ride along on. fasten the wagon to the pipe clamp part with a 1/2" floor flange. Might have to trim it a might, to fit. Then there is the matter of Dogs.....

Still planning things out. Finish for the top?????

[Steve Branam]

A little late to the party here, but this is looking great! The skirts really do add rigidity. Here's a blog post I just did on building a Paul Sellers workbench of similar design, from construction-grade lumber: http://www.closegrain.com/2012/05/building-paul-sellers-workbench.html. He uses large stopped dados in the skirts to house the upper part of the legs. So that provides mechanical interlock, in addition to fasteners.