Why Not Another Saw Thread

[Jim Koepke]

One of my experiences with taper ground saws is if a cut is started with mostly the toe of the saw, the heel of the saw seems to get trapped in the kerf when the stroke is extended.

Changing my cutting method seems to work when it is remembered to start with a full stroke.

Just this evening it came to me that increasing the set just a bit at the toe might also relieve the situation.

jtk

[Mike Allen1010]

[QUOTE=Jim Koepke;1924509]One of my experiences with taper ground saws is if a cut is started with mostly the toe of the saw, the heel of the saw seems to get trapped in the kerf when the stroke is extended.



Hi Jim, when I have this problem - the thinner plate at the toe passes smoothly through the kerf, but the thicker plate at the heel is binding - I need more set along the entire tooth line. I like the total set (the width of the tips of the teeth) to be consistent along the entire tooth line. This way all teeth are doing an equal amount of work and the plate should slide smoothly through the kerf throughout the entire stroke.

All things being equal, for a full size, taper ground saw I shoot for .009" - .010" of total set after stoning the edge of the teeth. Sometimes polishing the plate with a buffing wheel and Green compound will also help.

For what it's worth,Mike

[Chris Vandiver]

Mike is right, you want to gauge your set at the heel of the saw(with calipers) and aim for that along the length of the toothline. I personally, start my cuts more with the center of the saw, but that's just how I do it.

[Mike Holbrook]

One of the saws I got at auction recently was cleaned/sanded...right over the edge of the teeth. It want cut more than 1/2 inch into the wood before it stops dead. I am thinking I might add a little set to the teeth, at least until it grows a full width set of teeth. Interesting how the different manufacturers and models address this issue.