what size bandsaw blade?

[Dan Beckman]

I need to order a new blade for my Grizzly bandsaw. What is a good blade design for roughing out logs for bowls? I seem to remember 4 TPI, but what width works well? Also, who supplies a good quality blade? I can get blades from Grizzly, not sure of the quality.
Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

Everyone has their faves, Lennox, Timberwolf, etc.

Personally, I get my bsaw blades 10x at a time from bandsawblades.com. 3/8" x 3 tpi heavy duty. At 3/8" they hold the curves of blanks between 5" and 14" perfectly. The low tpi helps them get rid of all that stringly wet wood without overheating or clogging.

[Bill Bukovec]

I get Timberwolf blades from Suffolk machine.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/silicon-steel-carbide-blade-selection-chart/

Here's a link to there blade selection chart.

I think I use a 1/2" meant for green wood.

[Jim Burr]

Dan, if you have a local saw shop or similar, they may make blades. I bought a Woodslicer...worst thing I ever did. Couldn't cut a curve, wouldn't align on my saw...total waste of $$. Even had a furniture maker friend stop by. We changed back to my $12 blade from the saw shop...aligned right away and cut like butter. 1/2" 4tpi is a good place to start. Woodcraftbands.com has some good stuff that's inexpensive, Ellis, I'm told has good stuff too.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I also buy my blades from Suffolk, and a 3/8" blade will cut circles down to about 2 1/2" dia. while the 1/2" blade I use for roughing out blanks will cut circles minimum 3" dia. with some care and sharp offsets.

[J.D.Redwine]

from bandsawblades.com. 3/8" x 3 tpi heavy duty. .

I use those also.

[Pat Scott]

I buy from Suffolk as well. I like the 1/2" x 3 tpi blade as I rarely cut circles smaller than 6". I think the 1/2" has a little more stability and strength and less flex. If you're using an underpowered saw and trying to cut 12" of wet wood, then the 3/8" will give less resistance.

Suffolk makes a blade specifically for cutting green wood (AS or Alternate Set). The AS has more set than a regular blade so it won't bind up in wet wood. You can buy Timberwolf blades from Woodcraft but they are $30+ a piece (for a typical 105" length). If you buy directly from Suffolk, even with shipping they work out to $20.

[Prashun Patel]

I've noticed no diff between stability of a 3/8" and 1/2" blade even in 12" thick cherry and walnut I've been cutting recently. The nice thing about the 3/8" is that it makes a slightly better 'general purpose' blade as well; you can use this single blade to do just about everything as long as you're not looking for finish quality cut surfaces and not cutting scroll saw patterns.

I used 1/2" for a little while, and then inadvertently switched to a 3/8" when I broke my last 1/2". I was surprised at how great it performed.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use the Timberwolf 3/8" by 3 tpi.

[Quinn McCarthy]

I use highland woodworking blade that is designed for use by woodturners. it is 3/8"

Somebody mentioned the wood slicer by highland. That is just designed for resawing use. I have one and it works wonderfully for that.

Quinn

[Reed Gray]

I tend to want more heavy duty things, too many years in concrete construction, and I tend to abuse my tools. I prefer the Lennox bimetal blades. They are a bit more expensive, but cut better and last longer, and will take several resharpening sessions at the saw shop. I use 1/2 inch by 3 tpi blades, and the thicker blades as well, though I can't give you the decimal thickness, most concrete guys can't go under 1/8 inch. The more rigid/thick/stiff the blade is, the better it will take binding in the cut when your blank isn't perfectly flat and you are trying to cut a circle. It will cut a 6 inch diameter no problem. I seldom go smaller than that, and if I do, I cut an octagon, then nip off the corners. If I want a cylinder for spindle turning or hollow forms, it is generally easier to do the same thing, cut an octagon, and then put it on the lathe to round it up. If you have a local supplier, talk to them. My local guy is in the "he forgot more than you will ever know about bandsaws" category, and can explain it simply.

robo hippy

[brian watts]

woodslicer blade is all i buy now.

[Pat Scott]

Reed what kind of Lennox Bi-Metal? Looking at their website they list the following Bi-Metals blades: Diemaster 2, Classic, Classic Pro, QXP, RX+, Armor RX+, Contestor GT, and QGT.

The Bi-Metal works OK for green wood?

And I'm with you on the wanting more heavy duty which is why I sold both my 14" saws and bought an Agazzani B/20-20. I use the 1/2" instead of 3/8" because it doesn't twist and flex as much as a 3/8". I'd like to try 5/8" or 3/4" with the Agazzani as I almost never cut circles smaller than 6". Most of my bowl blanks are minimum 10". If I need to I'll cut the corners off and make an octagon and nibble it down.

Both my 14" saws lived with a 1/2" blade which to me was an ideal all around blade, so I'm not interested in going smaller. But that's me.

[Richard Jones]

Pat,

I use the Lennox as well, and it's the Diemaster 2. I use 3/8 x 4 and 1/2 x 3, both .035 thick. I get mine here. http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/product_info.php/cPath/21_25/products_id/34 Bi-metal works great for green wood. The 1/2" sounds like the blade for you. I use the 1/2" 50:1 over the 3/8".

Hope this helps.

Rich

[Pat Scott]

Thanks Rich!