Couldn't wait on finding a used band saw.....

[Kevin W Johnson]

I've been looking for another band saw after the upper wheel hinge broke on the Porter Cable (parts on unknown time frame backorder) I had. I had looked around on CL, not finding anything close enough, nor the right saw, etc. Today, I called my "local" (100 miles away) Woodcraft to inquire about their stock status of the Rikon 10-325. They had 6 in stock. I then inquired about the upcoming sale possibility, knowing they were just on sale in March, and previously on sale last June. After a couple minutes, and conferring with the store manager, I was told they could offer me very close to the last sale price, $130 off.

Well, I jumped at it after calling the wife to let her know I was making a road trip. I have it assembled, adjusted and tuned. I installed my Kreg fence, rather than the supplied fence. I set the fence next to the blade and reset the adhesive tape measure, and set the fence to 1". I cut a piece of 3/4" plywood, which the calipers showed to be 1.0015" on all areas tested. I'm really liking this band saw.

I did run into one slight issue with adjusting the lower guides. I couldn't move the guide assembly forward enough the achieve the proper measurement from the gullet of the blade, and this was on the blade that came with the band saw properly tracked. Knowing that it's a critical adjustment where it concerns drift, I had to shim the bearings and adjuster screw plate in order to get the guide bearings in the correct position.

[ray hampton]

congrats on the saw, 1.0015 are as close as you can get

[Richard Dragin]

Congrats on the new saw! I'm not sure what blade the Rikon comes with but most shipping blades are junk and just thrown in to keep the wheels in place during transport. Order some good blades and you'll like your saw even more. Don't buy the maximum width blade for the machine since all manufacturers seem to over state the tension ability of their saws. You'll enjoy your quality tool long after you forgot the price.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Congrats on the new saw! I'm not sure what blade the Rikon comes with but most shipping blades are junk and just thrown in to keep the wheels in place during transport. Order some good blades and you'll like your saw even more. Don't buy the maximum width blade for the machine since all manufacturers seem to over state the tension ability of their saws. You'll enjoy your quality tool long after you forgot the price.

Thanks.

Yeah, I purchased a Timberwolf blade to go with it, but figured I'd guinea-pig the shipping blade since I read several comments about the blade guide adjustment being quirky on this saw.

[Van Huskey]

Excellent choice. The fence and guides are the two weak links on that saw and you replaced one of them. The guides can be dealt with just slows the blade change times down. When it is time to get more blades I suggest Lenox or Starrett stock, I don't have a lot of love for silicon steel blades or TW welds, that said a lot of people have good luck with them though.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Where do you get your stock Van?

[Van Huskey]

I am a big fan of Spectrum Supply. http://www.spectrumsupply.com/ They are in Cleveland and have always done an excellent job with welds.

However, there has been lots of buzz about http://www.woodcraftbands.com/ and although Spectrum beats most suppliers prices this guy seems to be even better, by a good stretch. I haven't ordered from him yet but plan to. AFAIK he does not carry a hardened spring steel blade like the Woodslicer/Bladerunner/Kerfmaster.

I have used Iturra and a local supplier for Starrett bands, I used to use all Lenox (save for the Laguna Resaw King) until they quit making narrow bands so I use Starrett for those.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

I did run into one slight issue with adjusting the lower guides. I couldn't move the guide assembly forward enough the achieve the proper measurement from the gullet of the blade, and this was on the blade that came with the band saw properly tracked. Knowing that it's a critical adjustment where it concerns drift, I had to shim the bearings and adjuster screw plate in order to get the guide bearings in the correct position.

First... Nice saw. I purchased one last summer and have no complaints. Although the guides are kind of cheap, I have gotten used to them and can adjust them quickly now.

As for adjusting the lower guides: Have you tried to move the entire lower guide assembly forward? There is a nut and set screw on top (IIRC) of the assembly that needs to be loosened. I had to do this myself and found a "sweet spot" that allows me to adjust the bearings for 1/4" blades to 3/4" blades. I have not had to play with it since.

Also, if you have any issues just call up Rikon Tech service. They are great. One gentleman in particular is very helpful but I cannot remember his name. However his name has been mentioned here before.

[Kevin W Johnson]

As for adjusting the lower guides: Have you tried to move the entire lower guide assembly forward? There is a nut and set screw on top (IIRC) of the assembly that needs to be loosened. I had to do this myself and found a "sweet spot" that allows me to adjust the bearings for 1/4" blades to 3/4" blades. I have not had to play with it since.



Yeah, with the entire assembly as far forward as it will go, it was still 1/4" behind the gullet on the supplied blade. I'm thinking the mounting hole is too far rearward, as it would be even worse on a 3/4" blade. If the mounting hole isn't in the correct spot, there's little Rikon can do outside of another saw. It's not as simple as them just sending me a part. I'm going to pull the table back off and assess the situation as far as redrilling the mounting hole. Even then, I'll probably call Rikon before doing so, as I shouldn't have to fix something on a brand new saw.

If anyone knows the name of the person you're referring too, that'd be great.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Kevin,

I just did a search on here and saw the name Rod in two post. I had a feeling the name began with an "R". Give them a call and ask for him.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Thanks, I'll give them a call this week and see what they say.

I'm also thinking about adding a switch to the quick blade release to prevent the saw from turning on when the blade is disengaged. My other saw needed a quick release and didn't have it, thus I can see myself forgetting to engage the blade. However, I'll wait till I see what they say about the lower guide adjustment.

[Van Huskey]

I'm also thinking about adding a switch to the quick blade release to prevent the saw from turning on when the blade is disengaged. It's a feature my other saw needed and didn't have, thus I can see myself forgetting to engage the blade. However, I'll wait till I see what they say about the lower guide adjustment.

You can hang a ball or little sign on the release lever so that it falls in your field of vision when the tension release is "off" so you know not to use the saw, easier but not a fail safe like a micro-switch.

[Kevin W Johnson]

You can hang a ball or little sign on the release lever so that it falls in your field of vision when the tension release is "off" so you know not to use the saw, easier but not a fail safe like a micro-switch.

Possibly, the quick release is on a horizontal plane rather than vertical. Anything hanging from it will still be there when engaged as well. A sign that just hangs there when disengaged would rely on remembering to put it there. I like this release better than the one on the Powermatic I looked at as far as function goes. But the Powermatic release was vertical, so it was on the table and in the way when it was disengaged as a reminder.

[Van Huskey]

Possibly, the quick release is on a horizontal plane rather than vertical. Anything hanging from it will still be there when engaged as well. A sign that just hangs there when disengaged would rely on remembering to put it there. I like this release better than the one on the Powermatic I looked at as far as function goes. But the Powermatic release was vertical, so it was on the table and in the way when it was disengaged as a reminder.

The PM uses the one made by Carter, it has an orange ball on the end for the purpose. I was thinking when the Rikon's was engaged the end was back against the spine so a "tell tale" would be out of view against the spine, maybe I am incorrect.

[Kevin W Johnson]

The PM uses the one made by Carter, it has an orange ball on the end for the purpose. I was thinking when the Rikon's was engaged the end was back against the spine so a "tell tale" would be out of view against the spine, maybe I am incorrect.

The one on the Rikon does lay back against the saw pointing at the spine when engaged. When disengaged it's merely 90 degrees out, pointing away from the saw. The real problem is that in a shop as small as mine, the optimal position for the band saw is to have the back (motor side) towards the wall. Hence why I'm looking for another solution such as a safety switch. I looked at that tonight, and I have plenty of micro switches, but none are rated for that kind of load. If I use those, I'll have to use them in conjunction with a relay. I thought I had that covered as well, it's even solid state, however it's only rated for 10A.

It also occurred to me that the kreg fence doesn't facilitate blade changes. I'll have to mod that too, as I don't believe I want to remove the fence whenever I need to change blades.

I attached pictures of the tension release, both engaged and not, as well as the table slot and the fence rail. I'm considering simply making the fence rail two piece.

[Curt Harms]

Re blade tension there's likely no harm if you turn the saw on with blade tension off. How do I know that? :o. I've gotten in a habit of checking the blade tension gauge before pushing the 'start' switch. Even with a small blade it should show something if tensioned, not zero. When this saw was first introduced there was a problem with being able to move the lower thrust bearing back far enough for 3/4" blades to be able to track in the center of the wheel. My fix was to substitute a smaller O.D. bearing for the lower thrust bearing. Rikon's fix was thinner head on the carriage bolt where the bearing was hitting. It sounds like you have another issue.

[Paul McGaha]

That's a nice bandsaw Kevin. Congratulations.

PHM

[Van Huskey]

While there is likely no harm to humans (other than a very rapid increase in heart rate) turning an untensioned bandsaw on it can ruin a blade, DAMHIK.

Given the physical issues and trouble of adding a micro-switch I would get a fridge magnet and glue on a piece of paper or plastic and write on it "untensioned" or something. Then I would put a rubber band or something on the magnet so I could attach it to the tension handle. When it is untensioned I would put the magnet on the blade guard near the guides then when tensioned back on the tension handle. It isn't fool proof though.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Van, I have ordered from woodcraftbands multiple times. He sells "smoothslicer" bands that are just like the "woodslicer" bands. I really like these for resawing and ripping.
Salem