Electrical problem with G0514X2 Grizly 19" bandsaw?

[John Nesbitt]

I have had problems with this bandsaw from the beginning, but thought it was fixed. Initially the saw would not start, so Grizzly sent a new magnetic switch assembly. That was a few years ago and seemed to take care of the problem. Cut well with good results and no further starting glitches. As a hobbyist, I have only used the bandsaw a few hours (due to moving, time constraints, etc.) since the purchase. I recently moved it to my current location, and now it will start up and run for only one or two seconds before the magnetic switch interrupts the circuit and the saw turns off. I have checked the connections, contacts, capacitors, and switches and they are pristine due to the limited usage. I am unable to get the saw to run. I contacted Grizzly and tech support had me hold in the mag switch manually. The saw ran fine then. I told him about the replacement switch I hadfor the initial problem. When I changed the mag switch for the original one, the same thing happened. He felt it unlikely that both switches were bad and thinks something else is going on. He promised to confer with other tech people and call me back. It has been several days, and no return call. Anyone have any idea about what might be going on? Should I get another mag switch and try it? Anyone have a similar problem? Thanks for the help.

[Curt Harms]

Do you have a means to measure amp draw? Like a clamp-on meter? It does seem odd that two starters would have the exact same problem though if they both came from the same run I guess it's possible. I wonder if the start circuit is not disengaging thus causing an overload.

[David H Parker]

The first question comes to mind, is it on a ground fault circuit? If not an outlet, maybe a ground fault breaker? I know some of the new arc-fault breakers will also trip magnetic switches . I think it's more a power problem, like Curt suggested start checking with a amp draw meter and work towards the panel.

David

[Prashun Patel]

I'd also check the wiring for the cord - on both ends. On this saw, we have to make our own, which is a source for error (at least for me).

[Charles Lent]

Can you hold in the start button to keep it running? If you can there is likely an open in the stop button portion of the circuit.

Another thing to try is to push and then let the stop button snap out as sometimes the stop button contacts get sawdust between them. You may also have a loose connection at the stop button.

Charley

[John Coloccia]

It could possibly be the overload is tripping. Does that overload have a manual reset or automatic (I forget).

Somehow, though, I have a feeling that you have a bad switch somewhere on the control panel or elsewhere that is sensitive to vibration....most likely the microswitch on your brake. I'll bet you that it's on the hairy edge of tripping and that the slightest vibration is setting it off.

If that fixes it, the next time the wife and I are in the area on one of our random week long drives, you can buy us lunch at Big Bubba Bucks Belly Bustin BBQ Bliss.

[Mike Goetzke]

I'd also check the wiring for the cord - on both ends. On this saw, we have to make our own, which is a source for error (at least for me).

On my Grizzly planer I had a problem where all of the sudden it did not start at all. I opened up the switch and looked at it closely and all seemed fine. Then I gave all the wires a slight tug and found one of the fast ons wasn't crimped correctly.

Mike

[Richard Dragin]

Based on your time constraints......I would call around to tool stores in your area and ask for a recommendation of an electrician who can trouble shoot machinery.

[John Nesbitt]

Thanks everyone! I have some ideas to check out. First, I'll answer a couple of the questions/suggestions. First, I can't hold in the start switch and keep it running, but I can hold in the black switch in the starter and it will run fine. Stops when I let go. Second, I've checked the stop and start buttons and they work fine, no dust. I have checked the wiring and all terminals and tightened them. The rest of the suggestions I will check or get checked out. Also, Grizzly has called back, a guy named Justin who is supposed to be good with electrical problems. Keep the ideas coming and I'll let you know when it is fixed.

[Michael Heffernan]

John, I had a similar issue with my G0514X2 a couple of weeks ago. I've had the saw for 2-1/2 years with no issues. Used it in the morning, no problems. Later in the day, I went to fire it up for some resawing and the saw started up for a few seconds and then shut down. Kept doing this, then it wouldn't even power up. Called Grizz tech support, had me take off the fan cover and fan blade, checked the motor reset and that was fine. Opened the mag switch and could start it, but it kept cutting out. They couldn't help on that phone call. I rechecked all the connections ( I thought ) to no avail. Finally, I wasn't even getting voltage to the saw, so I rechecked the connections. In the box where I connected the power cord to the saw, I pulled off the clear plastic shield covering the terminals that run to the motor switch and found that the white wire terminal screw was loose. Tightened it up and I was good to go. Check those connections if you haven't already and torque them down. I had checked all the connections, cord plug, cord connection in this box and to the starter, but not these.
Hopefully, your issue is as easy a fix as mine was.

[Rod Sheridan]

231604

Hi, I converted the wiring diagram for your saw into a schematic as they're much easier to troubleshoot from.

As can be seen in the drawing, the current for the contactor coil flows as follows from one line

- through the on/off switch, then

- through the normally closed stop button then

- through the normally open foot brake switch then

- through the normally open start push button then

- through the contactor coil then

- through the normally closed overload relay to the other line.

Go through the above and check that the

- reset on the the thermal overload relay doesn't need resetting by pushing in

- power switch is on (voltage present at both terminals)

- stop push button is closed (voltage present on both terminals)

- foot brake switch is closed (power on both termnals)

- start button is open (voltage from terminal to terminal is 240 volts)

- measure voltage terminal to terminal on start button while someone pushes it and holds it, voltage should drop to zero.

- if all of the above checks out then it's the contactor coil or overload, one of them is open. (I presume you tried resseting the overload).

Regards, Rod.

[John Nesbitt]

Well, finally got to talk to one of the Grizzly electrical guys. We isolated the problem to the temperature sensor portion of the starter. Had to replace the entire switch or wait 6 weeks for the individual part. I will get it in two days. If it doesn't cure the problem, I'll be asking for more help. Thanks to everyone.

[glenn bradley]

It is a big black-eye when a supplier's QC causes problems like this. Ultimate responsibility is on Grizzly as the supplier's customer, of course. Hope the new switchbox solves the problem for you.

[Shiraz Balolia]

GB - Perhaps you missed the fact that the saw is several years old and that it worked fine for several years until he moved it to a different location. Machines do not have lifetime warranties and we are glad that our techs are able to troubleshoot problems with customers for machines that are out of warranty, at no charge.

[Van Huskey]

I don't think Glenn missed anything, I think, as I read it, his point was it sucks when a machine manufacturer has to deal with parts that fail which are generally outside their direct manufacturing control, like say BMW might with a supplier like Bosch. Minimax had to deal with a similar issue though more widespread with its bandsaws some years ago and it affected the perception of the quality of the machines even if the issues occured mainly after the warranty ended. I don't think anyone has questioned whether Grizzly has done everything they should and possibly more in this case.

[John Coloccia]

That's how I read it too. Hey Shiraz, stop goofing off on these forums and get back to work on that drill press :D

Seriously, I had to read it two or three times until I understood is correctly too.

[John Nesbitt]

Well, got the part from Grizzly, installed it, and bingo, the same problem still exists. Still only runs for 2 seconds and then switches off. Back on the phone to Grizzly later today. I have checked and double checked all connections and pretty much have followed all the suggestions everyone has given. Very frustrating. Now I think all the switches are good and something else is the problem. It must be in the motor itself or internally in the start/stop/key buttons. Need to resaw some oak and don't have anything else to use. I hate being dead in the water...

[John Nesbitt]

OK. Saw apparently fixed. The problem was with the load, but not an electrical load problem. The only thing I can surmise is that during the move, something heavy was place on the motor housing. After 500 miles the belt tension was affected. It was so tight that the starter switch tripped due to the increased mechanical load. Took the belt off and the motor ran beautifully. Replaced the belt with proper tension, and the saw was fixed. (This should be in the troubleshooting guide.) Grizzly is making it right and I'll be returning the switch for a refund. Guess I should have checked this first, but it did work for a while at the new location. Thanks again to everyone for helping.

[Van Huskey]

Glad you got it running! Honestly, I don't think I would have hit on that in a million years, I would have figured it out just as you did pulling the belt to isolate the motor in troubleshooting. Checking belt tension probably is in the trouble shooting guide but more likely in the area where the symptom would be low tension, it is a truely odd case where the tension would increase to the point of causing a serious problem but the user hadn't touched the tension.