D4r

[Jerry Thompson]

I have my D4R dialed in to cut dovetails in 3/4 pine. I did this as a matter of economy and to get rid of some pine laying about. Will my settings work on poplar, walnut, cherry and other hard woods? Should I persue with a hardwood to validate my tests on pine?
I intent to make a test blanket chest from poplar to weed out any screw ups I may make and keep the pucker factor low before proceding to more expensive lumber.

[Chris Rosenberger]

Yes the hardness of the wood does make a difference in how the joints go together.
I have not had problems going from hard to soft woods, but I have had problems going from soft to hard.

[Jerry Thompson]

Would poplar be hard enough to set fo other hard woods?

[joe milana]

Why not just back up the guide & creep up on the fit each time you change woods? It's so easy to do with that jig.

[Jerry Thompson]

Good idea. That sounds like a plan.
Thank you.

[Jerry Thompson]

Joe;
I just tried it using a 1/2'' DT bit and the coressponding straight bit. I set it dead on the 1/2'' scale and cut four boars of 3/4'' cherry, too tight. As you suggested I played creepy mouse and wham after two small adjustments they are on the money.
I don't care what they say about you,you are OK.
Thanks

[Brian Kincaid]

Every time I set up my D4 I cut all the tails(dovetail bit) then start the pins(straight bit) 1/2 a mark 'tight'. I tweak until I am satisfied with the fit (it is usually the same). Then I cut the rest of the tails blind using the setting.

-Brian

[Larry Frank]

I am currently using the D4 to make half blind dovetails. I gradually sneak up on the proper setting. However, this time, I bought a cheap Wixey depth gauge and once I got the joints fit, I measured the height of the dovetail bit in the router and recorded it. This way, I can check it once in awhile to make certain that there is not any creep or movement of the bit. You can also measure the pins or sockets to make certain that the adjustment stays right on.