A Stanley Scraper plane

[steven c newman]

Number 80. Spent about $4 + Tax today. Screws still work good, blade is in good shape. The rest?? A wee bit on the rusty side, but that's how I like them. 231312231313231317:eek:231318That is the Stanley Triangle Logo. Looks like I have a wee bit of work ahead of me. Between this Stanley, and another Stanley ( also $4 + Tax)231319 I think I might have to go work in the shop today...:D

[steven c newman]

Turned down a few other "gems' today. As for that block plane, it WAS $8, until I pointed out that broken side. I can live with it a whole lot better @ $4. I've cleaned the bolts on the #80, took them out brushed them clean, and oiled them up. Then, i put them back where each came from. That way the threads get a little oil too. Anybody remember WHAT colour these old #80 were painted? Seems to be a little black paint under the blade. I might have to "shock' that plane body of the #80. Wire brushing ain't cutting it. Scraper blade was ground like a plane blade, with a bevel on each end. Correct? or did someone "mess up' the blade?

Also in the hual today, I spent a whole $1 on a saw set. 231320231321No name on it. I guess now I'll just have to learn HOW to use one of these....

[robert dankert]

Scraper blade was ground like a plane blade, with a bevel on each end. Correct? or did someone "mess up' the blade?



http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/features/sharpen_scraper.html

[steven c newman]

Ok, that answers that. Thank you.


Next question: How does one use a saw set? I have never even had one before, but with about a dozen saws sitting around here, about time i learned that skill as well.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I think it's covered somewhere on vintagesaws.net, and I know it's in Hock's sharpening book. I'm sure it's covered in a thread here, and if not, someone more knowledgeable than I will reply. Basically, you can select different amounts of set by turning that anvil, and then put the tooth in there and squeeze . . . it slightly bends the tooth so the kerf is wider than the blade behind it and the saw won't bind, particularly if the wood closes up on the cut. Some woods will require more set than others, obviously, but as little as you can get away with is nicer - it helps the saw cut more accurately as there's less room for the blade to wander. There's more too it than that obviously, and I'm sure you knew that much as it is, but I'll leave it to someone else better at explaining these things to cover the fine points.

But honestly, I wouldn't even worry about it, as it seems like you're mostly reconditioning vintage saws, and unless you either remove all the set in the process of getting the rust and crud off of there, or you end up retoothing or refiling a whole lot or something, you probably won't need it for a while. I don't think I've *ever* come across a saw in the wild with too little set - it's almost always too much set, sometimes comically so. Every saw I've come across, I've had to remove set, and I've only resharpened one of them enough times that I've had to go back and add a little.

[Rodney Walker]

As far as I know, Stanley used black Japanning on the #80s just like the rest of their planes at the time. Nice finds, especially at those prices.
Rodney

[steven c newman]

Making a little progress:231357231358231359Got out my 12" Mill B. File, wrapped a piece of new 80 grit around it, and went to town on the sole. Then some 320 the same way. A liitle bit with the "naked" file, as well. Charged up the batteries in my makita drill, and chucked up a wire wheel. I used it to clean the rest of the rust off, and what little black paint was still around. Even cleaned up that strap, and the blade. Almost ready for the "Mask & Paint Guy? About two hours work, so far. Dirty work, at that.....

[steven c newman]

We be getting there:231420231421231422 Not too bad, for a $4 scraper plane? As for that $4 Block plane, since the Rustoleum was out, a quick clean up was in order231423231424I like this one better than that $32 "Bailey" out at the Menards store. And yes, that IS a shaving sitting there. I took it out for a test drive, on the edge of my new computer desk's Beech top. Wait until I get these two sharpened up.....

[steven c newman]

The block plane with the "Piano" finish, seems to be a later model #9-1/2 from Stanley. Just $4.26 out the door.

[steven c newman]

I plan on taking both planes for a test drive this week. I do have a big, old Phillips screwdriver to use as a "burnisher' for the scraper blade. I also have a couple finished handsaws to 'test drive" as well. Some old 4x6 barn beams need dressed up ( or is it ...DOWN) so a few toys, er, tools will get some use. Still planning the next "Rust Hunt" as well, going to go out a-looking, not saying I will actually BUY anything, but one does HAVE to get out of the house (and the computer) and find out where those "Gems" are. The 9-1/2 joins a Stanley #110, and a Mohawk-Shelburne #700 as my block party. The #80 will take over for a smaller shave I have231677231678Not sure who made it, either. I started this year with just four handplanes, now after a few Rust Hunts231679 a nice little family is getting started. A second #5 was being worked on, when this picture was taken. Now I have to add the two newest family members in there as well. Only the Bailey #8c cost more than $10 (@ $25) so we aren't breaking the bank on these.