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Rob Horton
05-03-2012, 2:33 PM
Hey all, I'm going to be doing a 25x30 building which I bought from U.S. Buildings (seem to be good folks) and I'll eventually be using this for a shop. The plans for this building call for a groove to be recessed in the surface of the concrete, about the size of a 2x4. Does anyone have any experience in pouring a slab with a joint like this in it? Books or other resources you could recommend on how to do this?

Mac McQuinn
05-03-2012, 4:25 PM
Rob,
Are you stating the concrete floor requires a Keyway groove? I know you're in a different region although I've only seen keyways put in concrete "footings" when poured in place foundation walls are used, locking them into place.
Mac

Rob Horton
05-03-2012, 4:41 PM
Rob,
Are you stating the concrete floor requires a Keyway groove? I know you're in a different region although I've only seen keyways put in concrete "footings" when poured in place foundation walls are used, locking them into place.
Mac

Yes this would be like if you had a really big router and you routed maybe a 2" deep by 8" wide groove in the slab. The building walls for these buildings are basically big arches. The ends of the arches are set into this groove, lower than the surface of the slab, I'm assuming to provide extra security so that the arch-ends don't tend to "kick out". I'm looking for advice/resources on how to form up that groove.

Brian Brightwell
05-03-2012, 5:51 PM
It used to be common practice to "key" walls to slabs or footers like you describe.
I usually just drill half inch holes with a hammer drill and drive half inch rebar into the holes.

Keith Westfall
05-03-2012, 9:28 PM
Sounds like a 2 x 10 cut to 8" (if that is what you need) . would do the job...

Bruce Wrenn
05-03-2012, 9:48 PM
Most likely, your wall panels rest in this recess. That prevents water from blowing under them. When I built mini storage buildings about twenty five years ago we did this so doors would be below floor level and prevent water from entering. You just set exterior forms as usual, then hang 2 X 4 off top of form. Remember that the wet concrete will want to "float" the 2 X 4 up, so you want to be sure and have it tied top top of forms. If you have a roll up door, then in that area, you would want to use either a 2 X 6. or 2 X 8

Russ D Wood
05-03-2012, 11:14 PM
What does the U S Buildings technical support people say? Russ

John Christian
05-04-2012, 7:39 AM
not too sure what the groove /key way will be for; but definitely secure it from floating in the concrete and grease it or wrap it in poly so you can remove it easily.

Mike Wilkins
05-04-2012, 9:58 AM
I think the groove he refers to is a rabbet joint around the perimeter of the slab that the bottom metal joist will fit into. At ground level, this would prevent surface water from entering the interior.
I think.

phil harold
05-10-2012, 8:57 AM
Hey all, I'm going to be doing a 25x30 building which I bought from U.S. Buildings (seem to be good folks)
The should provide you with building plans that include details of exactly what you need to do and be approved by your local area building department.
I hope you have better luck than these folks

http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/us-buildings-direct-for-steel-building-deerfield-beachfl-33442-florida-c238654.html

Jim Andrew
05-10-2012, 10:16 PM
Not familiar with this particular building, but some of these arch buildings have a base plate that you pour with your footing. It is kindof a trough that you set in concrete and then fill the trough with concrete. Should have an explanation in the plans.

Scott T Smith
05-12-2012, 3:09 PM
Hey all, I'm going to be doing a 25x30 building which I bought from U.S. Buildings (seem to be good folks) and I'll eventually be using this for a shop. The plans for this building call for a groove to be recessed in the surface of the concrete, about the size of a 2x4. Does anyone have any experience in pouring a slab with a joint like this in it? Books or other resources you could recommend on how to do this?


Typically grooves like this are put in by the concrete installers after the pour, and before the slab finishing. You could try to form it up, or use a slow-setting concrete mix to allow extra time for workability.