Contact Cement: Latex vs Solvent Based

[Steve Aiken]

I need to attach some 1/8" oak skins to the sides of kitchen cabinets. I've been told that solvent-based contact cement will hold up better than latex-based contact cement. I would like to use the latex stuff because the solvent-based contact cement sounds dangerous. I do have a cartrige-style respirator with VOC-rated filters if the votes are all in favour of the solvent-based.

Some of the cabinets have unfaced particleboard. I will 'prime' these surfaces (and the skins) with a thinned down coat of contact cement, and let them dry overnight before applying the final coat.

Some of the cabinets have melamine-faced particleboard. I will sand these surfaces with 80grit sandpaper on the orbital sander to 'rough up' the surface before applying CC.

Steve

[Doug Shepard]

I've only used two kinds of the latex type and don't remember the brand name of either. I'll try calling the place where I bought the good one. If I can figure out what brand it was I'll update you. Anyway, the brand I bought at HomeDepot was lousy. The one I bought at a local cabinetmaker's supply was very good stuff and I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.

[Steve Aiken]

What I've bought is Lepage 'green' contact cement in the yellow and green label.

steve

[John Lucas]

Steve,
I have always preferred the solvent based, but the latex gets good reports by some serious woodworkers. BUT, I do not like your idea of priming over night. I believe the can spells out recoating sooner than that. In the case of solvent, the recoat was as soon as the first coat became a little beyond tacky...about an hour. I fear that if you go too long, it won't bond as well.
My brand preference is Formica.

[Steve Cox]

I have had very good results with 3M fast bond 30 water based contact cement. It does take a while to dry (30 minutes accounting for the 30 in the name) but using a heat gun speeds the process considerably. Some stuff I have is about 4 years old and still holding strong (that's the oldest I've got).

[Steve Clardy]

I have had very good results with 3M fast bond 30 water based contact cement. It does take a while to dry (30 minutes accounting for the 30 in the name) but using a heat gun speeds the process considerably. Some stuff I have is about 4 years old and still holding strong (that's the oldest I've got).

Yes. 3M fastbond is what I switched to about a year ago after having problems with Titebonds blue stuff. At $60.00 a gallon, it is good stuff. I double coat the substrate.