Attaching Wood to Metal

[Jason Ochoada]

Hey Guys,

I some suggestions on attaching wood aprons to a stainless frame to make a table. The Stainless is 1.25 square tubing, about 1/8 inch thick. I have tried to attach a picture of the piece with the wood friction fitted. This is a especially difficult task because the tubing isn't square from top to bottom and some of the tubing has a slight twist so every wood piece is taylor cut to fit between the tubing.

The best idea I have had so far is to plow a couple of grooves into the wood aprons to loosly accept a threaded stud which I will put into the SS tubing. Because the tubing isn't square to each other I figured I will adjust the wood to split the difference in the reveal of the tubing and then encase the threaded stud in epoxy.

I would be very greatful for any suggestions

Jason

[Mark Singer]

Jason,

If it gets a wood top you can use a Kregg jig and screw to the top and slot the edge of the wood to engage the metal plate. You could also have tabs welded to the inside to accept screws.

[Cecil Arnold]

This may be off the wall, but have you considered pocket holes and self-taping metal screws? I think you would have to be very careful tightening the screws, but it might be worth a try.

[Jamie Buxton]

You could use a pocket-hole jig to machine the wood, and drill right through the tubing. Drop into the tubing a piece of wood which is square cross-section, and drive the pocket screws into it.

[Jason Ochoada]

Hey Guys,

Those are all great ideas! This was a real breakthrough for me. Thank you so much for your help. I will post a picture when finished.

Thanks
Jason

[Jim Becker]

Dowels and epoxy was my first thought but then I noticed the whole assembly is welded up. The tabs that Mark mentions would be my first choice, but pocket holes are an interesting possiblity.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I was going to suggest the self tappers too...let us know what you do!

[Jason Ochoada]

Hey Guys,

I thought it over and I think the best option is to drill out the tubing and insert wood like Jamie suggested. I can drill the holes oversize which will allow for wiggle for the wood aprons. I am unfamiliar with self taping metal screws. My first thought is that there isn't a screw I could self tap into 1/8" stainless with my cordless drill. Seems the effort would be too much for the drill or my wrist to handle. If you guys have more info on those screws, which ones to choose, where to purchase....Etc, that would be great!

Thanks again
Jason

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Hmmm....I don't know if a self tapper will do that without wearing you out, you could just predrill the tubing with a smaller hole than the screw needs, then it should adjust the hole's size as it's screwed in.

[Jason Ochoada]

Yeah,

That's what I was thinking, the other downfall is you have to get the angle right on the hole or the screw will "walk" the wood to where the screw wants to go. This could be a big problem.

Thanks for the confirmation

Jason

[Jim Becker]

That's what I was thinking, the other downfall is you have to get the angle right on the hole or the screw will "walk" the wood to where the screw wants to go. This could be a big problem.

True, but this is exactly why you need to have things clamped securely when drilling and screwing in pocket hole joinery. They will wander wood-to-wood, too. If you do drive a wood insert down into the tubing, you could also pre-drill "oversize" in the metal so you still are only using wood for the screws. This eliminates using special screws, although it's not posisble to glue the wood to the wood; only to the metal. I'd still use epoxy for that, being careful not to use so much that you get squeeze out and ruin the wood surface that is to be finished.

[Jason Ochoada]

Thanks Jim,


I Like I said before, I think it's the best route to take and screw into the wood. All the wood pieces will be pre-finished so I will just have to be careful of the epoxy and topcoat.

Thanks
Jason