More Candy Colors

[Eric Holmquist]

Norway Maple Bowl made from a tree taken down by a neighbor. Continued my experimentation with candy colors over metallic base, in this case a Candy Emerald Green / Racing Blue fade over a fine Aluminum base on the outside with EM6000 waterborne lacquer. Inside is finished with Bush Oil. Tried out a Rick Angus style rim. Around 8" (21cm) across.
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[Steve Kubien]

I do not like the rim but I LOVE everything else about this.

[John Keeton]

I am with Steve, both on the rim and loving the rest of it!! Excellent fade.

[Jason Ritchie]

Very stunning color gradation. I love the colors. I find them very soothing. It so smooth it almost looks like ceramic.

[Alan Trout]

I love the colors. Well done.

Alan

[Baxter Smith]

Great job on the coloring Eric. A very professional looking finish!

[Jamie Donaldson]

Have you considered the money you could make doing such nice fades on custom cars?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Great looking bowl and beautiful colors. Did you spray or wipe on the EM 6000? I just got mine in.

[Roger Chandler]

Beautiful bowl, Eric..........super nice coloration, fade and finish..........the bowl form is really good............I like other rim treatments better than this one, but your bottom/foot is really nice..........great looking piece!

[Michelle Rich]

hard to tell it's wood..that is fantastic!

[Bill Hensley]

That's a dandy! Well done on coloring and finish.

Sending you a PM.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Eric,
The real credit has to go to the guy who sanded and turned this bowl. He made the finisher's job much easier. Oh wait, you did both jobs. Beautiful finish and great choice of colors. They blend well together. Look out Giles Gilson.
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[Eric Holmquist]

Thanks everyone

This is the first time that I recall trying this rim treatment. Rick Angus who demonstrates all over the Northeast uses this rim style a lot, but his seem to work better. Most folks at work thought it was a retaining feature for a lid. Maybe I should turn a lid to match the piece! Not sure if I should reverse the fade back to blue or continue through the spectrum to yellow. A lid would loose the contrast between the natural interior and the artificial exterior.

This fade is something new for me, I normally fade across a larger portion of the color spectrum, often doing a full rainbow fade (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet). I think I will play around with more subtle fades like this one where I used a primary and its adjacent secondary. I almost reversed the colors with green on the bottom and blue towards the rim like a grass to sky fade, but went with my usual style of color order like rainbows.

Something I am starting to like is the contrast between natural wood and colored sections. I have usually used transparent acrylics and dyes that let you see the figure of the wood underneath. I tried something like this once in the distant past, but recently have done a few pieces with regions of fairly opaque colors.

Some folks at work have expressed interest in having me airbrush hood scoops on their hotrods. I am on the fence about this. I am using Autoair colors here which are waterborne and designed for automotive applications, but am not sure if the waterborne clearcoat I use (EM6000) can stand up to prolonged sun exposure on a car outdoors. The typical automotive clearcoats are nasty chemicals that I have never toyed with, and I somewhat fear the toxic aspects of them.

I sprayed the EM6000 with a small conversion HVLP spray gun using a 1.5mm needle, first a very light mist coat directly over the paint, then a slightly heavier mist coat, followed by two or three standard wet coats.

[Scott Lux]

If you do turn a lid, I think you should revers the fade on the lid. The "reveal" of wood inside will be very cool.