Bandsaw safety

[Mike Holbrook]

Going to pickup my Laguna LT14 SUV today and I was wondering if there are any safety extras that others have bought or made that make the work even safer? My saw will have a DriftMaster fence and the saw has the ceramic guides that ride on the blade holding it relatively securely in place, which is the best protection I could come up with. It has a foot brake with micro-switch which I hope will help prevent pulling the blade out of place if the blade has to be backed up in the work.

I have never heard of any sort of splitter to keep wood from closing on the blade. I have always assumed this was because the amount of blade in the wood is so much less than with a tablesaw. Certainly adjusting the blade guard down as close to the surface of the work as possible will help.

I was just looking for a video Van mentioned on setting the saw up that might have some helpful hints, but have not found it yet. I sent Laguna a note.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've never heard of a splitter.....generally, the TS splitter is designed to prevent kickback, which isn't possible with a BS. On occasion, though, you might see the wood close back up, in which case I grab a credit card [actually, a hotel key card = 30 thou ~~ 1/32"] and jam it in the kerf.

Honestly, I think you've got it all sorted. The best safety device I have is the gooseneck shop light, that better lets me see what's going on when I am getting in close - like cutting the faces of tenons, where the shoulders were already cut on a TS. There, I am not only watching my fingers, but mainly watching that I don't overcut.....but that's not the "safety" you meant. ;)

I routinely go to the BS for a cut that I would prefer on the TS, but can't do within my "safety comfort zone."

Nice saw, and nice setup, BTW............

Kent

[Bill White]

I think that you're good to go 'cause you've already engaged the most important safety feature-YOUR BRAIN.
Bill

[John Coloccia]

Don't ever push with your fingers inline with the blade. If you need to do that, use a push block/stick/whatever of some kind. Not much else you can do safety wise on a band saw other than consciously keeping your hands away from the blade.

[Prashun Patel]

The splitter isn't necessary but not for the reason you mention. The back of the blade wants to pull the piece down to the table on a bandsaw. On a table saw, the back of the blade wants to lift the piece up and towards you.

A couple things that I think require additional safety consideration:
1) For narrow pieces, get/make a push block.
2) Because the blade wants to pull the piece down to the table, if there is a gap between the bottom of the piece and the table at the cutting edge, the piece can roll and slam down. Use a support block for these cuts.
3) Make sure yr pieces have flat bottoms. When cutting logs, a flat bearing face to the table can be a hard thing to achieve. NOT doing this can mean the blade slightly twists as the piece rocks. It's not enough to roll it completely, but the blade twist can cause complete or partial binding. Partial binding may just make you push harder through the cut which (IMHO) is the biggest risk on a bandsaw, since the tension may suddenly release, causing the piece and yr hand to lurch forward right into the blade.

Never push hard...

[Steve Baumgartner]

One of the best things about a bandsaw is how much more difficult it is to hurt yourself than with most other machinery. As a result, there aren't a lot of safety addons available or needed. Kerf closing up is usually not a problem, and even when it does the saw does not tend to throw anything at you or suck your hand into the blade. The drift-adjustable fence has more to do with getting a clean, straight cut than with safety. If you pop the blade out of the guides when backing out of a cut, it is more scary than dangerous. If a blade breaks, most of the time it stays inside the housing and just stops (if the timing is just wrong, the broken end can catch on the table or guides but that's very rare).

The biggest danger is the operator error of putting your hand into the blade, either by pushing directly into it or by carelessly reaching around the exposed blade. This is particularly a risk at the end of a cut, when the wood tends to jump as the blade breaks free. Never push a narrow piece the last inch with your hands; always use a push stick or pull from the back side. Also, always lower the blade guide so that as little as necessary of the blade is exposed above the cut.

Enjoy your new saw!

[Van Huskey]

Try this page for all the assembly and some safety videos, these were the ones I was referencing: http://www.lagunatools.com/videos

Not much safety "gear" for a BS just your brain and the standard cariety of push sticks and blocks.

[Sam Murdoch]

The splitter isn't necessary but not for the reason you mention. The back of the blade wants to pull the piece down to the table on a bandsaw. On a table saw, the back of the blade wants to lift the piece up and towards you.

A couple things that I think require additional safety consideration:
1) For narrow pieces, get/make a push block.
2) Because the blade wants to pull the piece down to the table, if there is a gap between the bottom of the piece and the table at the cutting edge, the piece can roll and slam down. Use a support block for these cuts.
3) Make sure yr pieces have flat bottoms. When cutting logs, a flat bearing face to the table can be a hard thing to achieve. NOT doing this can mean the blade slightly twists as the piece rocks. It's not enough to roll it completely, but the blade twist can cause complete or partial binding. Partial binding may just make you push harder through the cut which (IMHO) is the biggest risk on a bandsaw, since the tension may suddenly release, causing the piece and yr hand to lurch forward right into the blade.

Never push hard...


You know, for such a young looking fellow Prashun (cute too), you are pretty smart. :D

[David Kumm]

I think the best safety practice is to assume the band will snap when you are cutting and keep your hands far enough away to avoid the snapping teeth. Most saws stop pretty quickly with a broken blade but it is scary. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, as Prashun noted, a major safety issue with band saws is the issue of round material that can be rotated by the blade.

This can have 2 consequences, binding and breaking of the blade, rolling the oprator's hands into the blade as the round aobject starts spinning.

The other major safety is sticking your hand in the blade, keep the minimum of blade exposed, use work holding or feeding devices and keep you hands at least 6 inches from the blade at all times.

Regards, Rod.

[Chris Tsutsui]

My college workshop teacher had somebody cut their thumb off at the bandsaw and gives descriptive stories about it to new students.

I have that story engraved in my mind whenever I work on my bandsaw at home so I guess it helped with safety awareness.

[Matt McColley]

good suggestions so far... especially using push sticks and NOT having the line of your hands motion in line with the blade.

You can set up a small sled with a fence and destaco clamps for handling small parts.

Be carefull cutting any parts with a round section, as the downward force of the band saw blade against the lead edge can make the part roll on the table and if your hand is riding the stock it may go along for the ride into the blade.

Ware gloves when changing blades.

keep the floor around the saw free of trip hazzards.

Be very carefull when cleaning your wheels.... many do this with the saw powered up and turning.... not a good idea IMHO.

We have three or four injuries a year on our 36" Tannewitz band saws, and almost every one of them could be avoided if the operators would just use a push block.

[Van Huskey]

I think the best safety practice is to assume the band will snap when you are cutting and keep your hands far enough away to avoid the snapping teeth. Most saws stop pretty quickly with a broken blade but it is scary. Dave

Not everyone has a BS that move at 6 million SFPM like your Dave.... I have 99 problems but a snappin' band ain't one...:D



BTW I am including this in all my posts this evening, I am more than one sheet to the wind, so if the question deals with anything to do with safety do NOT follow any advise I give, right now I would shove a hotdog into a Unisaw and expect it to stop...

[Mike Holbrook]

Great responses guys,

However, I am having issues with a number of the problems mentioned. Although I understand what the problem is I am not finding workable solutions to those problems. For instance, I don't think my GRR Gripper push device is going to work on my new bandsaw as well as it does on a tablesaw. There are all sorts of push sticks but I can't think of one that I would consider a good devise on a bandsaw.

[David Kumm]

Great responses guys,

However, I am having issues with a number of the problems mentioned. Although I understand what the problem is I am not finding workable solutions to those problems. For instance, I don't think my GRR Gripper push device is going to work on my new bandsaw as well as it does on a tablesaw. There are all sorts of push sticks but I can't think of one that I would consider a good devise on a bandsaw.

My push sticks are just that. Two sticks- one for the end, one to push against the fence. My hand is sometimes the stick that pushes against the fence but don't tell anyone. Dave

[John Coloccia]

Great responses guys,

However, I am having issues with a number of the problems mentioned. Although I understand what the problem is I am not finding workable solutions to those problems. For instance, I don't think my GRR Gripper push device is going to work on my new bandsaw as well as it does on a tablesaw. There are all sorts of push sticks but I can't think of one that I would consider a good devise on a bandsaw.


I don't remember where I bought it, but I use this:

http://www.gianteaglesupply.com/en/product_item/46.html

ON IT'S SIDE....

so it's laying flat on the table, and the lip is small enough that it doesn't get in the way of the cut. It's tall enough that I can keep my hands out of the way.

Anyhow, that just works for me.

[Sam Murdoch]

The point about a bandsaw push stick is that you don't want your finger to be the last piece of support as you pass your board through the finish of the cut. I guess I'm stating the obvious, sorry. Pushing through the bandsaw does not involve the same force and dynamic - power and danger - as pushing through a table saw. Don't even think of the gripper pads. Just use a block of wood of some sort as determined by the size and shape of the wood going through the saw. Sometimes it can truly be just a 3/4" x 3" block, other times it needs to be more of a jig. For resaw operation it often suffices to just have an extra equally thick board behind your cut board with a face glued on to it as a vertical support for the piece you are cutting. When you finish the cut - just stop pushing. Unlike the table saw you can safely pull away from a moving band saw blade. Just be careful if you need to back out of a cut while the blade is moving - DON't DO THAT. Stop the blade then remove your wood. More often than not you will be in complete control of the pieces on either side of the blade with no issues of getting your fingers in the way.

The reason the band saw can be dangerous is that it is quite a safe tool that lulls people into being too casual. Like all woodworking operations, you get hurt when you stop paying attention or when you are moving too fast. Be deliberate and keep your wits about you. Know how the tool might react - as explained in many of the posts above - and prepare your self in advance.

[Mike Holbrook]

How about Miter gauges? I guess one of these would only help with small cross cuts though and I don't think I would do much cross cutting on the bandsaw?

Laguna offers a 68"x20" adjustable height roller table (43"-25 1/2") that might be nice for in/out feeding larger boards. I also thought about making a table on casters to support the feed end. Maybe the whole table could be moved toward the blade. I understand maintaing a steady feed rate without getting the work off course is very important to cut quality so I am interested in how people achieve this type of calculated feed rate, especially with boards like the 8'x9"x 8/4" boards I am about to tackle.

[Mike Holbrook]

Someone mentioned a Gooseneck shop light. I would like a light on the saw, certainly a good safety feature. Does some company make add on lights for bandsaws? I am in the market for a light something like this for my workbench too. I guess it would need another drop cord at 110? I do have a reel 110 cord in the garage ceiling...

There is also a small cabinet that can be added under this saw. The saw seems a little low at 35.5" but I'm not sure if needs to be that much higher. The cabinet does not even list a size. There is a picture of the saw with the cabinet under it and the Mobility Kit under the cabinet so apparently the cabinet is drilled and built to work with the Mobility Kit.

[Prashun Patel]

Mike, personally I wouldn't make too much of feed rate and a sliding table. The blade moves slow enough that burning isn't such a big threat on rips or cross cuts - neither of which Id rely on a bandsaw for finish quality cuts anyway. A smooth fed rate is important on curves biz it helps you keep the curve moving gracefully not jaggedly. But this requires smooth movement in 2 directions. Just practice it free hand. With the right blade you will be surprised how easy making near perfect curved cuts is.

[Mike Holbrook]

Good to know Prashun. My little Inca saw has been difficult to get good rips with, so I will be using it for cutting curves. I think the 1/2" Woodslicer I have on it from Highland Woodworking will work, although I may change it to a 1/4" blade.

[Alan Schwabacher]

One other thing about a bandsaw is that it is safe to pull the work through the blade -- something that is definitely unsafe with a tablesaw that can kick back. Pulling the workpiece with a good grip, and using a push stick when your other hand would be in front of the blade, can allow good control even when cutting irregular shapes.

With regard to the Woodslicer: it's a very nice blade for making straight cuts in dry stock, leaving a narrow smooth kerf. But it is not well suited to curves. The small amount of set limits the radius of the curve, and cutting curves can dull one edge of the blade a little more than the other. Slight dullness, particularly if unsymmetrical, hurts resawing. I would not use a Woodslicer for even gentle curves until it had been demoted from resawing for cause.

[Kent A Bathurst]

How about Miter gauges? I guess one of these would only help with small cross cuts though and I don't think I would do much cross cutting on the bandsaw?

Absolutely - good catch. This pops up regularly, but not frequently, for me. Crosscuts and sometimes tenon shoulders. Its not safety, but rather that it is impossible to hold a narrow stick square to the fence - at least, it is for me.

I don't know how other guys addressed it, but when I got an Incra for my TS, the Delta OEM El-Cheapo got optioned to the minor leagues....the BS.

[Van Huskey]

How about Miter gauges? I guess one of these would only help with small cross cuts though and I don't think I would do much cross cutting on the bandsaw?

Laguna offers a 68"x20" adjustable height roller table (43"-25 1/2") that might be nice for in/out feeding larger boards. I also thought about making a table on casters to support the feed end. Maybe the whole table could be moved toward the blade. I understand maintaing a steady feed rate without getting the work off course is very important to cut quality so I am interested in how people achieve this type of calculated feed rate, especially with boards like the 8'x9"x 8/4" boards I am about to tackle.

Miter gauges are often a pain on bandsaws. The reason is the miter slot is only parallel with the blade if you have a blade with zero drift on the saw, a carbide blade like the RK has a much better chance of having no drift than a blade with set to the teeth, so you may get lucky. If you need to do much Xcutting on a bandsaw I suggest a small sled with a runner you can adjust for drift OR for smaller pieces just a square sled with no cunner that registers against the fence, which would be adjusted for drift. I am a fan of setting the table to accomodate drift but there only only a few saws that do this and I don't know of any that are sold today that do.

For infeed I usually just use a roller stand but for outfeed on a small tabled saw I think it is best to build a small table like the one Peachtree sells. http://www.ptreeusa.com/band_saw_acc.htm#3602

If space is an issue you could probably build some sort of knockdown version.

As for feedrate it does indeed effect the finish BUT it will be minor. I can "read" the side of a bandsaw cut (like anyone else, it ain't bandsaw whsiperin') and see when you sped up, slowed down, stopped or sneezed but this is the kind of stuff a quick touck with a smooth plane or sandpaper gets rid of. Getting rid of these tell tales requires one long smooth stroke for the cut or a power feeder, the only time it is worth the effort (or money in the case of a feeder) is when you are trying to slice veneer at thicknesses that rival commercial veneers, not many people try that anyway. In general you aren't going to get a glue ready edge from a BS but with a blade like the RK and a little attention you will need only the smallest amount of prep.

There are a lot of gooseneck lights out there, I don't have any links off hand but if you don't get any answers in this thread you could start a seperate topic. I have some older standard incandescent versions but if I buy any new ones I will try to find a good LED one, nothing like a hot bulb in your face in the South!

[Jim Matthews]

If I have a particularly close crosscut, I'm likely to leave the line and get to the finish line with handplanes.

The little Inca saws have a small work surface, so you may benefit from building a larger table of plywood (http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-make-a-band-saw-auxiliary-table/index.html) to fit over the stock table.
If you need to perform work on an angle, I think buidling an auxiliary base to that angle will be more stable than adjusting the trunion from below.


Listen to the sound of the blade, it will tell you if you're forcing things. Applying force in the direction of the blade should be just enough to keep up with the teeth.
They clear sawdust at a given rate, depending on the hardness of the material and the amount of blade engaged. It can't be rushed.

If you smell burning wood, you're probably moving too slow.
If the motor bogs down or you hear the drive wheels squeal, you're moving too fast.

Don't pay any attention to the YouTube videos where the operator practically throws a block of Mesquite through a resaw blade - that's a recipe for a trip to the ER.

jim
wpt, ma