Best 110v Table saw for around $1000

[Philip Spencer]

First, let me put my ignorance of electrical work on display. I only have 110v in my small shop. I had an electrician run a few extra outlets when I moved into the house and he told me that my panel was 'maxed out'. So my, perhaps incorrect, assumption is that I am not going to be able to run 220v to the shop without a panel upgrade.

So, if my first assumption is correct, then what are thoughts on a good 110v saw, either contractor or cabinet, for around $1000?

[Bruce Wrenn]

Look for a used Sears zip code saw (22124.) Owners rave about them. Unfortunately Sears no longer sells them, but they did some smoking deals on clearance a few years back. Even though I own a Uni, I still lust for a 22124.

[Van Huskey]

Are all your 120v lines on duplex (half sized) breakers similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-Q2020-120-Volt-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00002N7KW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334887268&sr=1-2

If not you may well be able to replace a the full sized breakers and have room for a 240v circuit.

[jonathan tennant]

i just got a GO713 from grizzly and have zero complaints about it. cuts great, nice fence and like the fact i can move it to the jobsite if needed.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-1-3-4-HP-Left-Tilting-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0713

[Myk Rian]

Look for a used Sears zip code saw (22124.)
Or a Steel City. Basically the same saw, but with a better warranty.

[Craig Wahl]

If money is no object, then by all means buy a $1,000 1.5 hp saw. However, if this would effect your ability to upgrade to a 3 hp saw at a later date I would think hard about getting a less expensive saw now and plan on upgrading later. I have a the Craftsman model that is 1 model lower than the one referenced above and although I like it just fine (the fence is not nearly as nice as on the 22124) my motor bogs when ripping heavy stuff like 8/4 maple & thick pine. The adjustment cranks are also a bit cheesey, but I suspect they are better on a 22124. That being said, I like mine well enough and plan on keeping it till I have the space and everything to upgrade to a 3 hp saw.

Personally, I would take the advice referenced above, and make sure there is no way to add capacity to your current box and add a 20 amp 220 circuit. If you don't plan on moving anytime soon it may be worth it to upgrade your panel. It’s a lofty DIY project but I rewired my whole house including panels and service without any previous experience by reading online, in manuals and doing what my inspector told me to. You could spend a few hundred bucks upgrading your panel and buy an older, solid delta or PM 3 hp saw for $700 or so. Then you could also power real planers, dust collectors, jointers, etc. and get out of the 110 volt hobby stuff. There is also the perhaps easier option of adding a small subpanel to power 220 shop stuff.

[Steve Meliza]

Lots of 110V saws are under $1000 new and tons of them far less then that. Just make sure you get 1.5HP as that is about the limit for 110V.

An easy way to add circuits is to put in a sub-panel fed from your main panel. If needed, move a few circuits from the main panel to the sub-panel to make room for the breaker to feed the sub-panel. You should be able to do all of the work yourself as the homeowner for a few hundred (including permit) and then not have to compromise on any tool purchases.

[Sid Matheny]

I have the Craftsman 22116 and love it. You will find it on sale just under $1000.

Sid

[scott spencer]

I have the Craftsman 22116 and love it. You will find it on sale just under $1000.

Sid

The 22116 (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-1-3-4-hp-premium-hybrid-10inch-table-saw-22116/p-00922116000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1) is the model that replaced the popular 22124....cabinet mounted trunnions, one-piece cast blade shroud, granite top, Biese clone fence, full enclosure, still made by Steel City/Orion. The Steel City 35900 (http://www.amazon.com/Steel-City-35900-10-Inch-Cabinet/dp/B004U94DGE) is a cast iron version of a very similar saw.

Jet has just updated their Proshop hybrids with riving knives 708492k, 708494K, etc.), but the new ones are closer to the $1200-$1400 range. You might be able to find one of the older versions without the riving knife within budget (708480, 708482k (http://www.amazon.com/Jet-708482K-JPS-10-10-Inch-ProShop/dp/B000WO8C7W/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334966670&sr=1-1), etc).

I'd also check into one of the Grizzly models....G0661 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-2-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0661)/G0713 (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-1-3-4-HP-Left-Tilting-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife/G0713), or possibly the G0715P (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P) if they've resolved the alignment issues with that one.

[Phil Thien]

Are all your 120v lines on duplex (half sized) breakers similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-Q2020-120-Volt-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00002N7KW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334887268&sr=1-2

If not you may well be able to replace a the full sized breakers and have room for a 240v circuit.

Just a note that not all panels handle tandem breakers. My Siemens only supports as many circuits as it does breakers.

[Jeff Duncan]

Personally I wouldn't bother with a contractor saw if you have $1000 to spend. I'd just pick up a used Unisaw or even better Powermatic 66 both of which were offered with smaller motors, and use the left over money for some nice blades.

good luck,
JeffD

[Guy Belleman]

Grizzly G0715P can be wired for either 110 or 220. Better saw that still leaves a little to purchase a good blade and still be within budget.

[scott spencer]

Cousin Philip, are you still with us?

[Frank Hegg]

I've found a 22124 on CL for ~$575, $475 (+$50 in gas to pick up, +cost of rolling base) and does not have the orig biesemeyer fence, he has a craftsman xr2424 on it.




I'm also considering the steel city 35926, it's now avail on amazon for $849 total (no tax where I live and free ship to door)




My third choice is the grizzly G0715p for ~$895, $725 (+tax +$50 in gas to pick +63 for rolling base.)




Any opinions on what you think the better deal is?

[Mark Rakestraw]

For what it's worth I had an xr2424 fence that I put on an old grizzly contractor's saw. It's no biesemeyer, but it is a nice fence.
Mark


I've found a 22124 on CL for ~$575, $475 (+$50 in gas to pick up, +cost of rolling base) and does not have the orig biesemeyer fence, he has a craftsman xr2424 on it.




I'm also considering the steel city 35926, it's now avail on amazon for $849 total (no tax where I live and free ship to door)




My third choice is the grizzly G0715p for ~$895, $725 (+tax +$50 in gas to pick +63 for rolling base.)




Any opinions on what you think the better deal is?

[Andy Fox]

First, let me put my ignorance of electrical work on display. I only have 110v in my small shop. I had an electrician run a few extra outlets when I moved into the house and he told me that my panel was 'maxed out'. So my, perhaps incorrect, assumption is that I am not going to be able to run 220v to the shop without a panel upgrade.

It depends on what he meant by "maxed out." If he meant it's handling the maximum amps, then you'd probably need to upgrade the panel and the wire feeding it. If he meant that all of the breaker spaces are full, and you can't replace some with the tandem breakers mentioned above, then maybe you could get a subpanel installed. It would take up two spaces in the main panel, but maybe those are circuits which could be fed from the new subpanel?