NOVA Jaw Sets

[Glenn Barber]

I currently have the standard 50mm, the 25mm bowl, and the 100mm bowl jaw sets and the mini Cole set. I will be recieving a reconditioned SN2 in a day or two, and am trying to figure out the best jaws to add to my lineup.

What NOVA jaw sets do you users find most valuable? Least valuable? How do you use each set, i.e. bowls, boxes, hollow forms, etc?

I would like some opinions on the PowerGrip set. Is it a the best choice for hollow forms and large heavy work?

Any 75mm bowl jaw set users? Is it a good set to have or would you prefer the 75 mm Long Nosed set?

Are the Pin jaws a vast improvement over the shorter 25mm for smaller and finial-type work?

Soft jaw info is also appreciated.

Thanks,
Glenn

[John Keeton]

Soft jaws are an absolute must for me. I use them for lids, finial components, etc. I have the mini cole jaws that I have never used because I have the Holdfast vacuum system. I find that long nose or pin jaw sets tend to not hold well, and I prefer the shorter jaws in the 25mm size - not sure of the designation. But, that said, 90% of what I turn is done with the 50mm jaws. I have 6 chucks - two with 50mm, one with 100mm, one with 20mm, one with 25mm, and one with the soft jaws. The 20 and 25 get used for finials, etc. I have yet to use the 100mm.

[Roger Chandler]

The powergrip jaws are heavy duty...........they are also 100 mm, but they are deeper than standard bowl jaws, and they have superior holding power............it allows a pretty hefty piece of wood to be held safely with the SN2.......you should always use the tailstock as well when roughing out a blank for a bowl.............you can use a longer and beefier tenon with the powergrip jaws...........I have 3 sets of 50 mm which I use most of the time, and the pin jaws, which are really good for a finial.....I also have the large cole jaws, but have since gone to using a vacuum chuck so they mostly stay in the drawer.

[Richard Jones]

Glenn,

Keep in mind that the 75mm jaws in contraction are almost the same as the standard 50mm jaws. They are not an intermediate between 50mm and 100mm jaws, at least not in spigot mode.

I have the 75 long nose jaws and they work fine if.............. they're gripped out near the end only and you're turning something fairly small, easier to get behind it, etc. And, you're turning something larger, make sure your tenon is of sufficient length for at least half the length of the jaws, preferably longer. Gripping strength is fine, but I do get some vibrations with this set of jaws, depending..........

I bought the 75mm bowl set thinking, perhaps like you, that they were a fill in size. Sold them, bought the 75mm long nose jaws, but really only use them for a specific small production product that I make in quantity.

Hope this helps.

[Thom Sturgill]

I have a G3 and three SN2s, each with a different set of jaws. I have the standard 50mm, 25mm, 100mm and a set that was sold as '3" bowl jaws'. They are much heavier and deeper than the others, accept a 50mm tenon but open into a 3" mortice. I have two soft jaws that I haven't used yet. My next set will be the 5" (130mm) jaws for use on platters. To go larger I will have to step up to the titan or a vicmarc.

The 3" bowl jaw set gives a good strong grip with both the dovetail at the top and teeth further in, but in expansion mode provides a better grip area than the 50mm and are my favorites.

[Glenn Barber]

Thanks for all your input gents. There are some really good nuggets of actual use wisdom here.

Thanks again,
Glenn

[Steve Kubien]

Of the Nova jaws, the 75mm were always my favourite because the top surface was so wide, they offered a lot of support. Not sure what I mean? Think in terms of a screw chuck... Would you have more support for large pieces if the flat surface was 2" wide, or 5" wide? Make sense?

[Michael Mills]

I have a set of the PG’s and like them a lot, I decided on them over the 100mm bowl for versatility for only a few $$ more. Much better for heavy/hollow form work, that is what they are made for?
Make sure you read the specs, the 75mm bowl jaws are 75mm at expansion but only about 46mm for a spigot/tenon (about the same as your 50mm but the are hefty as other stated); the 75mm long nose are about 50mm at expansion (same as your 50mm jaws) – the 75 long nose refers to the length of the jaws, not the diameter.
A little know jaw is the 70mm which I really really like. They fit in with my normal stuff using expansion. If using a tenon/spigot they also provide almost double (4.0si to 2.2si) of material to be broken off.
http://www.amazon.com/NOVA-JS70N-70mm-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B0064JJB9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334793019&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/NOVA-JS70N-70mm-Chuck-Accessory/dp/B0064JJB9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334793019&sr=8-1)
Don’t be fooled by the cut out for the screws. The thin (bottom of the dovetail) is 5mm or the same as the top of your 50mm jaws so you ain’t gonna break them.

[Scott Hackler]

I have the standard 50mm and the 75mm on two chucks. The 50mm setup is my go to, but I have been craving a set of pin jaws ...on a new chuck.... for finial stuff. But from reading John's comment, maybe I need a 20mm set instead....

[Mike Peace]

Soft jaws are an absolute must for me. I use them for lids, finial components, etc..

John, do you get a lot of uses out of one set of soft jaws? Curious why you don't use your 100mm jaws with wood jaws. I understand they have extra mounting holes for that purpose but I do not have a set. Seems like a nice feature.

[John Keeton]

Mike, I am sorry I didn't get back to this. I am not sure I totally understand using the 100mm jaws. Wouldn't one just configure a set of jaws to afix to the chuck slides like the metal ones? Just not sure I understand exactly what you are asking - but, I have not checked into that.

I do get a lot of uses from the soft jaws, and, in fact, I am still on the first set. I probably don't have much more usage remaining in this set, but it has been two years this month since I started using these.

I guess the response to the wood jaws is that I am just too lazy to make them! Seems they should work fine, particularly if the right wood is used. The nylon might retain its shape a bit better, but wood jaws from a softer wood might be less likely to mar the edges of a piece, too. I can certainly see advantages to doing as you suggest, as one could make them thick enough to turn away the recesses and start over like is done with the soft jaws.

Just checked the Teknatool site and realized that Mike may be talking about using the Cole jaws like this - 230408

This would not work as well for what I do, as most of the use I make of the soft jaws is with smaller pieces. Seems like one might be better off just constructing thicker jaws to work on the slides of the chuck if one were so inclined. Just my thoughts at this point.

[Mike Peace]

Your picture shows mounting wooden or mdf jaws on cole jaws probably for reverse chucking a bowl. Looks like you could turn segments that resemble the soft jaws as well. I have a set of mini cole jaws so I may try mounting some wood jaws on them. Don't know why they would not work. I was thinking of a set of wooden jaws customized to hold a scoop perpendicular to the lathe bed for hollowing the bowl. I have seen a couple of articles in the British Woodturning magazine that showed wooden jaws for hold rectangular pieces of wood as well.

Here is part of the Teknatool accessory jaw documentation:
e. False Wooden Jaws
Custom wooden jaw segment mounted on 100 or 130mm jaws. No responsibility
can be accepted for the user’s own adaptations of this custom facility. It is the
user’s responsibility to ensure that work is safely mounted.
Provision is made for the 100mm jaws to take custom false wooden jaws.There
are two screw positions in each jaw slide.These are made to accept a M6 by 30
Allen Head Cap Screw.The optional fastening kit for the 100mm jaws F100N can
also be used with the 130mm jaws.This pack comes with 8 M6x30 Capscrews
and a M5 Allen Key.
METHOD:
Careful consideration is needed as to the type of holding situation that is required
for the false wooden jaws.This will influence jaw diameter and design.The
following information is simply intended as a guideline.Turn a cylinder between
centres to the approximate diameter required for the false wooden jaws. A
cylinder of about 88mm (3 15/32”) will provide for good expansion of false
wooden jaws. However any diameter between 87mm (3 27/64” and 100mm (4”)
can be used...

[Breck Whitworth]

Glen I think the power jaws would be a must for your collection of jaw sets. I use my power jaws all the time for large bowls and even for some smaller ones they are great. If you need to turn large bowls or hollow forms you can't beat them IMHO

[Harry Robinette]

I've been using Nova's for about 13 years now. 2SN , 2SN2's , 1Titon ,3 Compacts( that still all work and hold center) and an Original Nova with tommy bars.Jaws 25mm, 35mm, 45mm,50mm, pins, 70mm,100mm,130mm,long nose,75 bowl jaws and soft jaws.I'm pretty well set for anything that needs jaws, Best jaws for me 50mm, 100mm, 75mm bowl jaws,and pins all the others get used every once in a while.Have never needed the
PG jaws and I turn bowls to 26" on my Vega. Love my Nova's and there jaw line up.