WWII 40T Thin Kerf Blade Question

[Charlie Gummer]

Hello All,

I just received the subject blade from a fellow Creeker. In the process of buying the blade I did not look at the final picture in the classified post which indicated the blade was thin kerf. I've hesitated to buy a thin kerf blade due to reports of vibration/chatter/stability.

I'll experiment for myself but I'm curious on the general opinion of the WWII TK in particular. For reference I will be using it in my Jet Pro-Shop 10" hybrid. I can certainly see the advantage of the reduced cutting resistance in that I do work with thicker stock and the 1.75 HP has shown it's limitations with my full kerf blades. Your feedback is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Charlie

[HANK METZ]

A most telling evaluation would be to make test cuts with and without blade stabilizers (dampeners) in stock that you frequently use. If you lack stabilizers but happen to have a 6” HSS dado set on hand, the outer blades will, within limits, substitute well enough as stabilizers for you to decide if their purchase is warranted.


- Beachside Hank
The use of nails in fine furniture is to be abhorred- drywall screws are preferred.

[Michael W. Clark]

I have this blade and a stabalizer. I never use the stabalizer and have not had any problems. The blade stabilizer will limit your cut depth if you use thicker stock. I think the maximum cut depth is a little over 2" with the stabilizer. I have a 5hp 3ph cabinet saw, so power was not an issue for me, but I have had situations where the thin kerf allowed me to get an extra work piece out of a board.

I also have a TK rip and plywood blade. Both of those are Frued, no vibration or chattering from them either.
Mike

[glenn bradley]

I've run a TK WWII and several other TK blades for years. On a properly aligned saw, I see little difference. I also have some full kerf blades that I use for special cuts. The thicker blank does add some reliability when cutting difficult material; 3/8" thick padouk at 22.5* along an 8" cross-grain path and things like that but, I don't use the WWII for finish-quality crosscutting anyway. I would run it, I run mine ;-)

[Johnny Kleso]

I was just at a friends using his WWII TK and it was really sad..
We were cutting 8/4 Bubinga very hard but I could not trim a board taking less than a full cut without blade walking off

Go to ebay> Home & Garden >Tools >Power Tools >Saws & Blades >Saw Blades
Search for> Onsrud CCATB-10-126-60-625 10" Crosscut Saw Blade $24.70 FREE SHIPPING
Click on line to the Onsrud Factory Store and get a Combo blade and maybe a Glue Line Rip

Some of the blades are $20 and free shipping thats like $10 each for 10" 12" Made in Germany saw blades

They have this think Kerf Onsrud COM-10-098-50 10" Combination Saw Blade for $24 free shipping
The full size is $39 :(

[Van Huskey]

I have had issues when trying to trim off less than a kerf width on VERY hard stock as Johnny mentions BUT I have a couple TK WWII I use when I am trying to save wood and they have always worked fine, I only use them then since I have a large cabinet saw. With your saw I think a TK will be right at home and don't expect you to have any issues except maybe when trying to trim less than kerf width in very hard stock which isn't ideal for a full kerf blade. I have never seen any positive effects from stabilizers but some sear by them, then again I don't use my TK blades very often.

[Shawn Pixley]

My standard blade on my TS is a TK WWII (never have owned a stabilizer). I have never had any vibration or problem with it. I have had it resharpened a couple of times and it still works great. I only go full kerf with my special grind blade for miter feathers. My biggest limitation is the horsepower of my saw.

[Charlie Gummer]

Gentlemen, many thanks. I think for once an oversight on my part may actually turn out to be a boon. Bound to happen sooner or later ;)

[Alan Lightstone]

I have a SawStop contractors saw and have never used a blade stabilizer, but I use TK blades all the time (Freud glue line rip, crosscut). I haven't noticed any issues. Am I just missing something? Should I be using them for some cuts?

[scott spencer]

I have a SawStop contractors saw and have never used a blade stabilizer, but I use TK blades all the time (Freud glue line rip, crosscut). I haven't noticed any issues. Am I just missing something? Should I be using them for some cuts?

I wouldn't bother with a blade stabilizer with a good quality TK blade unless there are obvious issues....and even then, they're more of a bandaid for other issues than a cure.

Charlie, the odds are very high that you'll love your new TK blade (if it's sharp)....I had excellent results from TK blades on my contractor and hybrid saws.

[Tom Walz]

A thin kerf blade is not as stiff as a full kerf blade.

The strength (stiffness) falls off as a cube of the plate thickness. A saw blade plate that is 20% thinner will have about 51% of the stiffness. (.8 x .8 x.8 = .512 or 51.2%).