Question on Branch wood - stabilizing the pith for endgrain turning

[Roger Chandler]

I decided I had to go ahead and turn a new vase form for the lady who commissioned the piece from SJPT wood........see thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?185016-The-lady-requested-gnarly-roughout&highlight=

On this new form .........it had worms.........several........they are now EVICTED......and since this was a branch piece of wood with the pith in it still [no way around using it] I decided to saturate the inside bottom of the form where the pith is with thin CA glue.........just to try to prevent any cracking.........also put some CA glue in the tenon area, because the wood had already started to crack there as well.

I let the glue dry, then gave it a shot of accelerator just for good measure and after a few minutes, I put it in the DNA overnight.........took it out about 15 minutes ago and wrapped it in paper, after giving the cracks at the tenon area a little more glue and accelerator...........

Some of you more experienced turners can help me here............since this is 350 year old white oak, that wants to crack if you look at it .....:eek:......is there anything else I can do to try to have this one turn out right?

I have it bagged up now, and will weigh it till it stops loosing weight...........

The other one...........I just could not bring myself to give someone else a form that I myself would be disappointed in........even though she said she was not looking for something perfect and liked knots, gaps in the wood, etc.............that other one was too far gone in my opinion.

[Tim Rinehart]

I have good success banding (hose clamp) the tenon where the pith is still present. I tighten it every day till it no longer will tighten and then just leave the piece to dry before final turn. (assuming you're twice turning). Otherwise, I just try to make sure I get as consistent wall thickness as possible to avoid dryout at different rates, which makes problem of pith cracking even worse.

[Roger Chandler]

I have good success banding (hose clamp) the tenon where the pith is still present. I tighten it every day till it no longer will tighten and then just leave the piece to dry before final turn. (assuming you're twice turning). Otherwise, I just try to make sure I get as consistent wall thickness as possible to avoid dryout at different rates, which makes problem of pith cracking even worse.

That is a good idea Tim..........thanks! Now I wonder where I can find some large clamps?

[Scott Brihn]

Roger,

Lee Valley sells "bulk" hose clamp material that you could use to fabricate a size appropriate for your project.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger,

Lee Valley sells "bulk" hose clamp material that you could use to fabricate a size appropriate for your project.


Thanks for that info, Scott!

[Tim Rinehart]

Hose clamps that clamp onto tenons aren't typically very large, certainly no larger than what the big box hardware stores sell. I would check the plumbing section of HD or Lowes ... should have no problem getting anything from 1" to 6" diameter...plenty big enough for a tenon clamp.

[Ian Jeffcock]

Roger. I have turned about twenty HF's / urns in the last month or so. I turn green to finish, and leave the pith in. I have not had luck twice turning, the extra bulk of the tenon always seems to crack. I turn and hollow and then sand to 240 or 320 all in one session. After I part off the tenon, I sand the foot with my die grinder. Next I pour some sanding sealer into the HF and coat the entire inside. I tip out the excess, and then place in a closed plastic bag and stand it upright. It will pool a bit in the bottom, but it usually soaks up. I let it breath a little each day. It usually takes about a week before I leave it un-covered. This technique really seems to help. I very rarely have cracks anymore. At first I tried the CA treatment, but I don't think that it penetrates enough.
p.s. I cut my sanding sealer about 50/50. Hope this helps.

[Roger Chandler]

Thanks Ian, that technique sounds like it has some merit to it, and your results lend it credibility for sure...........I think I will print off your post and keep it for future reference.

Thanks for sharing this! One question..........what do you cut your sanding sealer with.........denatured alcohol or mineral spirits, or perhaps another solvent?