Bench plane internal geometary

[Matthew N. Masail]

I made a plan for a plane, this time with a screw cap, but I'm not sure the dimentions are ok, or if the savings will clear. I plan to build a mock-up to find out but thought you could tell me in advance if somthing is wrong here. the screw cap comes to within 1/8inch of the cutting edge.

229887

[Zach Dillinger]

You may want to change the angle of the wear, and make it longer. As it is, it won't do much to prevent the mouth from opening up once the sole starts to wear. They are usually more like 70 degrees or so, so your listed angle measurement should be something more like 110 degrees. You'll probably want it to be 1/2" or 5/8" or so long. I can't speak from experience on the cap design, as every plane I've ever made has been a normal wedged wooden plane, but I would think you'd want to move the end of the cap back. You won't need a chipbreaker with a thick iron like that, and I can see the 80 deg. effective angle of the tip causing problems, as well as trapping shavings. Plus, with it so far down into the throat, you won't have much room for the sole to wear.

[Chris Vandiver]

This might be a good link for you; http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NowTHISisablade%21.html

[Matthew N. Masail]

Thanks chris! I found the jack plane pictorial iimmensely helpful

[Zander Kale]

... the screw cap comes to within 1/8inch of the cutting edge.

On my infills, I put the bottom of the screw cap between 3/8" and 1/2" (about the same as Stanley lever caps), this gives me access without having to remove the blade. This has worked fine for bevel down & up, 1/8" to 1/4" thick blades.

[Zander Kale]

I also use a higher lever ratio for the cap, a bit over 1:1. For example, 30mm & 40mm.

[Matthew N. Masail]

Thank you !