First hand plane?

[Julian Amin]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post here as I am completely new to woodworking. I've been trying to build a set of hand tools, but have been having trouble choosing/finding my first hand plane. I was hoping some of you could offer me some advice...

For me, woodworking will be just a hobby and I hope to do smaller projects (like cutting boards and boxes) at least for the time being. My research has led me to consider a low angle block plane as my first plane, but a smoothing or jack plane has also been recommended to me. Does anyone have additional opinions about this? Also, what exactly would I use each of these planes for, particularly in the small-scale projects that I'd be working on as a beginner?

If it helps, I'd like to spend less than $40 on my first plane.

Any and all advice is appreciated.

[Peter Pedisich]

Julian,

Rather than a block plane as your first, I would suggest a Stanley #3 or 4 for smaller scale work, and a #4 or 5 for more general work. My first hand plane was a Stanley low angle block plane for $36 brand new (Lee Valley has them), and it was a good plane for a beginner but for my use was too small for most stuff. With a sharp blade, the plane performed way beyond the $36 it cost, mainly due to the adjustable mouth, and I still have it.
For a beginner, you can get a later Stanley like a type 19 #4 or #3 for less than $40 needing only a little clean up and sharpening.

Far and away, more important than any plane type/size/brand is the first and most important step in hand tool work - sharpening. Don't worry about method, oilstones, water stones, sandpaper, sidewalk... just take a lesson, watch a video, get a book, and sharpen a plane blade or chisel for yourself and take it to a piece of cherry and you will be hooked. Feeling what a sharp tool does will give you all the motivation you could ever need to explore further.

From my experience, and I speak from having done it the wrong way first, I say learn to sharpen well and the rest falls into place.

Good luck and keep your eyes on the classifieds here for good user planes.

Pete

[Jim Koepke]

Julian,

Welcome to the Creek.

Your profile doesn't indicate a location. You may live close to someone who would be willing to let you test drive some of their planes.

Your comments:


For me, woodworking will be just a hobby and I hope to do smaller projects (like cutting boards and boxes) at least for the time being.

and


If it helps, I'd like to spend less than $40 on my first plane.

Do put a limit on where to start.

A used #4 or #5 Stanley/Bailey plane shouldn't be difficult to find in that price range if you can get to yard sales and flea markets early.

Sometimes even antique stores will have a good deal.

Cutting boards do present a problem since they are often hard woods and end grain. This is where a low angle plane or a card scraper come into play.

Here is a post of mine that may help to understand more about hand planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?148076-Getting-Started-With-Hand-Planes

There are a lot of posts in the Stickys at the top of the Neanderthal Haven conference. One is for mentors, you may find someone there close to your location. The other fount of information is the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs. A lot of members have posted invaluable information in this section.

Good luck and remember, your questions will not be answered if they are not first asked.

jtk

[Julian Amin]

Thanks Peter and Jim. That is really helpful information.

With a #3 or #4, would I be able to round edges? Most of my research led me to assume that this is one of the purposes of a block plane. If a #3/#4 won't do for this, is there any cheaper non-plane alternative for rounding edges?

Thanks again,
Julian

[Jim Koepke]

With a #3 or #4, would I be able to round edges?

I do it all the time.

It is simply a matter of taking one small slice at a time. It actually goes pretty fast. It is like making a chamfer, but constantly changing the angle of the chamfer.

jtk

[Michael Peet]

Thanks Peter and Jim. That is really helpful information.

With a #3 or #4, would I be able to round edges? Most of my research led me to assume that this is one of the purposes of a block plane. If a #3/#4 won't do for this, is there any cheaper non-plane alternative for rounding edges?

Thanks again,
Julian

Hi Julian,

A spokeshave excels at rounding edges.

And I second Peter's advice on sharpening: it is imperative for good hand tool work. You'll read lots of this-or-that about sharpening, but IMO there is no trick other than to pick one of the many methods and get good at it.

Good luck!

Mike

[peter leyden]

Julian, If you live on Long Island give me a call (631-226-8754) . I have 76 smooth planes - #3.4,5,6,7 from various makers. I also have 35 block planes of various makers. I'll be glad to show you what i have and give you a reasonable price.
Peter Leyden
p_leyden@hotmail.com

[Julian Amin]

Thanks everyone for the advice and for the invitation, Peter (I live in Maryland, though). I think I'm going to start searching for a used #4, because from you suggestions it seems to be the most versatile plane in terms of the work I'm interested in. Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for when buying one of these used?

[David Nelson1]

Welcome to the Creek Julian. I live a bit south of Annapolis and if you wanna get your hands on something before you pull the trigger drop me a note. I'm home most every evening and weekends.

Dave

[Joel Goodman]

I would consider a LN low angle jack as it's the one of the easiest planes to get working really well. Or alternately a LN or LV block plane. Any of these will let you know how a plane should work. For me that was helpful in setting up my older Stanleys. For a newcomer to planes the BU design of the low angle jack or a block plane is less fiddly.

[Tri Hoang]

Highly recommend you try one out first. One could get an old Stanley and turn it into a good user for $40 but it is probably best done with some experience.


Welcome to the Creek Julian. I live a bit south of Annapolis and if you wanna get your hands on something before you pull the trigger drop me a note. I'm home most every evening and weekends.

Dave

[Jim Koepke]

Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for when buying one of these used?

Look at condition. Avoid planes with broken or missing parts. Unless you are good at making new handles you want good handles on the planes you purchase.

Often parts can cost as much as a bargain plane.

Here is a post with a lot of links about hand planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?104945

Here is one with information on things to look for or watch out for when shopping for hand planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?116419

jtk

[Steve Branam]

Hi Julian,

For folks such as yourself just starting out with hand tools, I have a section on my blog that introduces the tools and a variety of skills. It's still a work in progress (I've been saying that now for well over a year...) so it doesn't cover everything, but the projects on the blog fill in some of those details.

The Intro Hand Tools section: http://www.closegrain.com/p/intro-hand-tools.html

For some discussion of different sharpening methods: http://www.closegrain.com/2012/04/gnhw-sharpening-demo.html

For a utilitarian starter project that incorporates a variety of tools and skills: http://www.closegrain.com/2010/07/horse-care-tote.html

[Jeff L Miller]

Julian, welcome.

I have read the advice above and think it is all sound. I would also recommend an old Stanley #4 or similar from Millers Falls. If you can find one in reasonable shape you will have an immediate learning curve including sharpening, plane fettling (tune up), cleaning, and use. Starting out with a high end maker would be a little like jumping into the deep end of the pool, but you would have a quality product.

I enjoyed learning on a good quality user plane (Stanley). All of the things I've mentioned take a bit of getting used to, though the end result is worth it. Send me a PM and I'd be happy to get you started with something inexpensive. I would look for a plane made prior to WW2; the c1930's Stanley's are considered quality tools but there are tons of options.


Jeff

[Kenneth Speed]

It may be more than you're willing to pay when you're just starting out but I cannot praise the Veritas Bevel up Jack Plane enough. It has become my Go-To plane and takes the place of a large smoother, a jack plane and a fore plane. I don't have a shooting board but I've contemplated making one and a hot dog grip just so I could use the plane in that manner too. I think this plane and a decent block plane will cover your bench plane needs form a long time.

Old Stanley, Sargent and Millers falls planes are often good values but as Mr. Barnum says you'll have to learn to tune the plane, etc. Learning these skills are valuable but will delay you from the woodworking you wanted to do in the first place.

[Jeff Bartley]

Julian,
Many have replied with sound advice and to add to the list I'll say: go to someones shop and try every plane you can! Spending less than $40 on your first plane is meaningless if it doesn't work and the only way to know how good a handplane can work is to use a well fettled one.
I have both old and new in my shop and had I tried a new plane first I might not have spent so much time tuning old planes. That being said, taking an old plane and making it sing is truly sweet! And acquiring the skills to tune an old one will serve you well. If you do go the old route I'd suggest a new blade. And regardless of the planes you end up with the first step is learning to sharpen.
And lastly: fasten your seatbelt cause handplanes are a slippery slope!!
Oh, one more suggestion----get or make a good bench, handplanes need a solid work surface!

[Jim Neeley]

Julian,

+1 on Jeff's recommendation; even if the closest person is a couple of hours away I'd recommend it. A well fettled plane is a thing of pleasure to use.. one that is not is a great frustration. The old Stanley/Baileys can make good planes but almost always require hours of fettling (filing and sanding) to get tuned. These hours of time is a significant part of why some choose to buy the Lee Valley (Veritas) and Lie-Nielsen planes, for they come already fettled. Others get great pleasure in how well they can fettle a plane and thereby save the $$$. There is not a right/wrong here but I encourage you to at least get your hands on a well-tuned plane, so you know what is attainable.

I got my first three planes (2 block, one jack) in 1985 but I never seemed to get them to work right so they just stayed in my toolbox; a total waste of $$$. Then I had the opportunity to use a finely tuned plane... and the rest, they say, is history! :)

Jim