1/2 to 3/4 hp motor upgrade on bandsaw worth it?

[Michael Weber]

I have an open base Delta BS with a 1/2 hp motor. Getting ready to start doing some resawing. I've resawn some cedar and it worked okay if a little slow. Stopped at the local Re-Store a couple of weeks ago and scored a new Baldor 3/4 hp motor with the same frame type and rpm as my existing motor. Question is if I replace my current 1/2 hp motor will it have a noticeable difference in the material feeding speed?

[Jay Rasmussen]

I replaced my Delta ½ with a 1 horse and was very pleased with the result, I would think going to the ¾ would be a good improvement.

[Van Huskey]

It just depends on what you are using the saw for. If you are doing scrolling cuts you will outrun the blade's ability to clear cheaps before you run out of power, countour cutting in 4/4 material or less probably won't make any difference. If you are doing quick rough contour cutting with a low TPI blade, ripping or resawing then the extra HP will be of help. In general I would say since you own it put it on and judge for yourself, I think you will probably be pleased.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm with Van, if you have the correct blade, you'll have a 50% increase in resaw speed..............Rod.

[Dennis Ford]

+1 on trying it. I suspect that the 3/4 hp Baldor is twice as powerful as the 1/2 hp Delta motor. There is quite a bit of BS in horsepower ratings.

[Van Huskey]

I suspect that the 3/4 hp Baldor is twice as powerful as the 1/2 hp Delta motor. There is quite a bit of BS in horsepower ratings.

Maybe, maybe not. There is is very little to no BS regarding plate HP on induction motors. The difference can be seen in duty ratings and accounts for most of the this 1hp motor has more power than that 1hp motor. Further we don't know what vintage the Delta motor is, given not many (if any) of the modern versions with Asian motors were supplied with 1/2hp motors it may well be a nice older motor that may be closer in HP than one might think and if it is a vintage motor the Baldor almost certainly isn't more than 1/4hp in the lead... maybe less.

[Michael W. Clark]

Maybe, maybe not. There is is very little to no BS regarding plate HP on induction motors. The difference can be seen in duty ratings and accounts for most of the this 1hp motor has more power than that 1hp motor. Further we don't know what vintage the Delta motor is, given not many (if any) of the modern versions with Asian motors were supplied with 1/2hp motors it may well be a nice older motor that may be closer in HP than one might think and if it is a vintage motor the Baldor almost certainly isn't more than 1/4hp in the lead... maybe less.

+1. I have a old Rockwell 6" jointer with the original 3/4 Hp (late 60s, early 70s vintage) motor and I face jointed 6" hard maple with it and the motor never hinted at slowing down. I was taking light passes as I am still getting aquainted with the jointer (old jointer, new to me). I also have an old Curtis air compresser (1973) with a 1/2 HP motor that runs impact wrenches and my spray gun. I have a newer Delta 14" open stand BS with the 1/2 HP motor and I have stalled it resawing a 2x4 (1/2" 3tpi, TW blade). The new motor is probably 1/2 the size of the other two older motors. I suspect the older motors are over-built and can take more load before stalling or burning out.

Either way, I would put the 3/4hp motor on and let it run, it can only help and shouldn't be too difficult since they are the same frame/size. Maybe you could use the motor you take off for something else? I would like to have a disc sander, and this might be a good candidate if it is 1800 RPM or less.

Edit: I'm assuming the RPM of the 3/4 HP is the same as the 1/2 HP motor? Otherwise, you will probably need to change pulleys to keep the original blade speed.

Mike

[Bruce Wrenn]

If both motors are the same RPM, then why not put both of them on there? On the motor located at current mounting location, swap out sheave for a double groove sheave. Cut a slot through the base directly under sheave location that will allow a belt to pass through to a second motor located below on the frame. Lower motor can be mounted on a hinged platform, with the weight of the motor tensioning the belt. Be sure sheave on second motor is both the same SIZE, and BRAND as double sheave on upper motor. Add a switch (turbo) that controls second motor. It should be fed through first switch. Need more power, hit the "turbo" button. Remember the railroads do this all the time. Need more traction power, then add another motor.

[Van Huskey]

If both motors are the same RPM, then why not put both of them on there? On the motor located at current mounting location, swap out sheave for a double groove sheave. Cut a slot through the base directly under sheave location that will allow a belt to pass through to a second motor located below on the frame. Lower motor can be mounted on a hinged platform, with the weight of the motor tensioning the belt. Be sure sheave on second motor is both the same SIZE, and BRAND as double sheave on upper motor. Add a switch (turbo) that controls second motor. It should be fed through first switch. Need more power, hit the "turbo" button. Remember the railroads do this all the time. Need more traction power, then add another motor.

Or sell both motors and add the labor/parts cost and put in a 1.5hp motor (less than $200 new) and not worry about anything else...

[Bruce Wrenn]

Or sell both motors and add the labor/parts cost and put in a 1.5hp motor (less than $200 new) and not worry about anything else...Just like commuting in a Mack Truck, instead of a sedan.

[Van Huskey]

Just like commuting in a Mack Truck, instead of a sedan.

Or a sports car instead of a sedan depending on your point of view.

[Michael Weber]

Okay, thanks. I'll put the 3/4 on when I have time from building storm windows. Having both the 1/2 and 3/4 on at the same time (per Bruce) sounds fun but more work than I'm willing to do.;)