Buffing Questions

[Dan Kralemann]

I have four buffing questions:

1) I have read posts that state the item was buffed with Tripoli, White Diamond, and Ren Wax. Why Ren Wax instead of Carnauba Wax which comes with the Beall Buffing System?

2) Are you using the round bowl buffs to do the inside of bowls or are you pushing the inside of the bowl into the buffing wheel?

3) If you are using the round bowl buffs, which size do you use and why?

4) What speed should I run the lathe at while buffing?

Thanks, Dan

[John Keeton]

Dan, I predict you will get a host of varying answers!! So, to start, I will add mine.

Ren wax will not show water spots, it is a more durable wax, and it has a better gloss IMO. A little goes a long way, so the can will last you quite a while.

I rarely do bowls, and have come to the point where I don't buff them. I use walnut oil and leave the surface at as it is after 400, sometimes 600. I have a set of 3" bowl buffs and hate them.

As to speed, there are many factors, including the type of finish, how long has the finish been curing, and whether you are letting the compound do the work or you are pressing hard and building heat. I use WOP, and more recently, General Woodturners Finish, and I buff much sooner than others do, usually at about 750, though with the WTF I have gone to about 1000 with good results. Lacquer seems more prone to melt/burn if buffed quickly or at high RPM.

[Thom Sturgill]

I'll give it a try
1) Ren wax does not spot or show finger prints. Carnuba does.
2) Depends on the size of the bowl
3) I only own a 4" round buff. I don't think they are very effective due to low speed near the centerline
4) I run the Tripoli around 1000 rpm and a little lower for the white diamond and about 6-700 for the wax. Not sure at all what the 'proper' speeds are, but i want the wheel HARD for the tripoli and progressively softer for the other two.

[Doug Wolf]

Dan,
I tried the Ren wax in place of the Carnuba and wasn't happy with the way it buffed out (dull looking). I ended up using the Carnuba to get the hard wax surface with the buff. Then after buffing just apply the Ren wax on top of the Carnuba by hand and wipe off by hand to prevent spots and fingerprints.

[Richard Madden]

Dan,
On the buffing questions you will no doubt get several replies, so I won't get into that, but I would like to know how you are doing? We last talked on the phone over a year ago before I visited with Jim Adkins, and I remember you were facing some health issues. I hope you are doing well.

[Thomas Canfield]

I usually buff with Tripoli after sanding to 400 before applying any finish unless the wood is very light since it will add a reddish tint as it fills the minute pores. I also buff with Tripoli after each wipe on/off coat of DO/Poly mix for 3 to 6 coats letting dry for 24 hours or more. I do not use the White Diamond but do use Renassiance Wax after the last coat and buff with Tripoli. I have 3" and 4" bowl buffs, but like the 4" and 5" wheels that I have made from available buffing disks better. I use the Don Pencil basic buffing system and especially like the 12" extension for getting into larger bowls and deeper hollow forms. I also have use a little buffing wheel on a Dremel tool for some small bowls about 1 1/2" D.

The speed needs to match you diameter, but I use 1800 rpm with 8" and 5" buffing disks for Tripoli and slow down for buffing the Ren. Wax.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I don't buff bowls as I use mainly walnut oil. On other piece I use Ren Wax and have never had a problem getting a good shine. It will not show water spots or finger prints. If I do buff a bowl I use a 3" round buff and I buff at 1750 rpm.

[Steve Kubien]

Bernie, have you tried buffing out bowls finished with the walnut oil? I often do it and it does give a soft shine. I think it makes a difference, anyway.

[Dan Kralemann]

I wish to thank all of you for your replies which helped give me the direction I wish to go. Thanks, Dan

Richard, I'm going to send you a PM.