John TenEyck
04-11-2012, 8:30 PM
I built this bedroom cabinet to match the style and finish of an existing cabinet, which looks like the set of drawers on either side. This cabinet is 7 feet long x 3 feet high x 2 feet deep. I take no credit, or criticism, for the design; it sure looks retro to me but hey, that's what the lady wanted.
229264
The cabinet is so large that I was worried I wouldn't be able to get it up out of the basement w/o dinging it up, so I ended up bringing all the pieces up separately and assembling it in my garage. My car's not too happy. Construction is birch veneer plywood, joined with biscuits and pocket screws (heaven forbid !) and maple faceframes/legs joined to the case the same way. The sides of the cabinet meet the top with mitered joints. No room for error there with the thin veneer these days on plywood. I cut the miters on my crosscut sled, which was a bit of a challenge with the top since it's so long, but they came out amazingly crisp I must say. Glue-up was a bit of a challenge though; I'd need to devise a better approach if I do this again.
I used 20" KV muv undermount, self closing drawer slides.
229265
The were a LOT cheaper than Blum, have excellent directions, are easy to mount and adjust, seem very robust, and work beautifully. I will definitely use them again.
I used simple lock rabatt construction for the maple drawers.
229267
Here's a shot of the cut-out and hole in the drawer back for the undermount slide.
229270
And of the mounting plate that screws up under the drawer front.
229271
The only downside of these type of slides is that they weigh a ton. There are eleven sets in this cabinet, and I knew two people (me being one) would never be able to carry it into the house with the added weight of those slides in it. So I mounted the slides to two spacers behind the faceframe in such a way that I can just unscrew the spacers and take out the slides as a pre-assembled unit. I'll be able to put each assembly into the cabinet, put in 2 screws in each spacer, and be done.
229272
Behind the doors of the center cabinet are three rollout shelves, also mounted on the same undermount slides.
229273
I devised a very simple way of adjusting the height of the two upper ones using a standard 1/4" shelf pin system. The slides are screwed to a cleat which has two 1/4" shelf pin glued in the back, which index into the holes in the verticle spacers. You can see it here if you look closely.
229274
This system is really for positioning and I wouldn't rely on it for support by itself, so after the lady decides what height she wants for those two shelves I will anchor the cleats fast with a screw or two.
Even though the existing cabinet was built in Brazil, I found some Ameroc drawer/door pulls that are an exact match, which was amazing to me.
I finish consists of a dye layer then stain, then the finish toner coats. The finish was GF's Hi Perf. Coating to which Transtint dye was added for the toner. I sprayed on three to four coats to get the color I needed. The drawers got one sprayed coat of Sealcoat shellac, followed by two coats of the GF product.
Thanks for looking,
John
229264
The cabinet is so large that I was worried I wouldn't be able to get it up out of the basement w/o dinging it up, so I ended up bringing all the pieces up separately and assembling it in my garage. My car's not too happy. Construction is birch veneer plywood, joined with biscuits and pocket screws (heaven forbid !) and maple faceframes/legs joined to the case the same way. The sides of the cabinet meet the top with mitered joints. No room for error there with the thin veneer these days on plywood. I cut the miters on my crosscut sled, which was a bit of a challenge with the top since it's so long, but they came out amazingly crisp I must say. Glue-up was a bit of a challenge though; I'd need to devise a better approach if I do this again.
I used 20" KV muv undermount, self closing drawer slides.
229265
The were a LOT cheaper than Blum, have excellent directions, are easy to mount and adjust, seem very robust, and work beautifully. I will definitely use them again.
I used simple lock rabatt construction for the maple drawers.
229267
Here's a shot of the cut-out and hole in the drawer back for the undermount slide.
229270
And of the mounting plate that screws up under the drawer front.
229271
The only downside of these type of slides is that they weigh a ton. There are eleven sets in this cabinet, and I knew two people (me being one) would never be able to carry it into the house with the added weight of those slides in it. So I mounted the slides to two spacers behind the faceframe in such a way that I can just unscrew the spacers and take out the slides as a pre-assembled unit. I'll be able to put each assembly into the cabinet, put in 2 screws in each spacer, and be done.
229272
Behind the doors of the center cabinet are three rollout shelves, also mounted on the same undermount slides.
229273
I devised a very simple way of adjusting the height of the two upper ones using a standard 1/4" shelf pin system. The slides are screwed to a cleat which has two 1/4" shelf pin glued in the back, which index into the holes in the verticle spacers. You can see it here if you look closely.
229274
This system is really for positioning and I wouldn't rely on it for support by itself, so after the lady decides what height she wants for those two shelves I will anchor the cleats fast with a screw or two.
Even though the existing cabinet was built in Brazil, I found some Ameroc drawer/door pulls that are an exact match, which was amazing to me.
I finish consists of a dye layer then stain, then the finish toner coats. The finish was GF's Hi Perf. Coating to which Transtint dye was added for the toner. I sprayed on three to four coats to get the color I needed. The drawers got one sprayed coat of Sealcoat shellac, followed by two coats of the GF product.
Thanks for looking,
John