can this 10" blade be used without 2 teeth

[Joseph Tarantino]

my favorite general purpose 10" TS blade is a c-man 32808 (40 tooth, atb, 15* hook angle, wood magazine best buy blade). unfortunately, i dropped it and it lost 2 teeth. 229248

since i got this blade for a song on clearance, spending $20-30 on replacing the teeth seems pointless. i've run it in a saw and it's balance doesn't seem to have been afffected. what thoughts about this are out there specifically as relates to finish work? anyone have a similar experience?

[Van Huskey]

First, make SURE no other teeth are chipped , cracked or broken, they tend to fly off very quickly if they are broken or cracked. My sharpener only suggests replacing teeth when you loose 10% so until you are down to 36 teeth on that blade he thinks it is fine. I have several that are missing one or two teeth and have never had an issue. I usually get them replaced when I sharpen them even if it is just one tooth, when they replace a tooth they have to sharpen it, but I wouldn't bother with that blade I would just use it and sharpen it as needed, I don't replace teeth on anything but a premium blade.

You also want to pay attention to the runout of the blade, it can be affected by a drop as well.

[Larry Frank]

If it were me, I would not use the blade.

The thought of it being not balanced and the potential for another tooth to come of like a rifle shot would make me too uncomfortable. I guess that a piece would only come off at around 150 feet per second or around 100 miles per hour so that it is not like a rile shot but still coming off very fast.

[Peter Kelly]

No. If two of the teeth just flew off, throw it in the trash.

[Van Huskey]

No. If two of the teeth just flew off, throw it in the trash.

He dropped it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Check Dynamic Saw's (dynamicsaw.com) price for replacing teeth and sharpening. I would run it till it needed sharpening.

[J.R. Rutter]

I would run it till it needed sharpening.

This. If it works for what you use it for . . .

[Steve Griffin]

Hey, I dated a gal like that :)

If you like the blade, send it her in for a sharpening and tooth repair. I don't use blades with missing teeth. Even if it cuts fine, I wouldn't want the out of balance blade vibrating and stressing arbor and bearings. (says the guy who just replaced both)

BTW, what you paid for it has nothing to do with the decision to fix it. I frequently go around and around with my wife about this breach of basic logic. It doesn't matter if you got it for free or $300-- the real question is how does the value of having a repaired blade relate to the cost of repair.

-Steve

[Lee Schierer]

Most commercial saw sharpeners can replace teeth. They can also check the rest of the teeth to insure they are aligned correctly. Tooth replacement costs are pretty minimal. I wouldn't use a damaged blade.

[scott spencer]

I'd proceed with caution for sure. My personal opinion is that it's not worth the risk over $30 worth of saw blade. IIRC, that blade was made by Freud and is very similar to their former TK306, and current Diablo D1040X, and LU86R010. The D1040X can be found at many homecenters for ~ $30.

As an alternative, there are still some good German made Onsrud 50T ATB/R combo blades for $24.15 shipped (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-COM-10-098-50-10-Combination-Saw-Blade-/220989169961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3373fb2129).

[Bill White]

As Scott mentioned.....JUMP ON THOSE ONSRUD BLADES. I bought two several weeks ago, wish I'd bought more, but how many bargains can ya afford.
Bill

[Guy Belleman]

"can this 10" blade be used without 2 teeth"

Of course. It will still fit. It will be out of balance, perhaps wobble and ruin the bearings in the arbor, but you will still be saving money right now. And since the teeth came off with a drop, who knows how many more may come loose, and it will be an exciting time in the shop.

Okay, throw it in the trash, buy a good blade. Don't drop it and get to cutting wood!

[Joe Angrisani]

.....As an alternative, there are still some good German made Onsrud 50T ATB/R combo blades for $24.15 shipped (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-COM-10-098-50-10-Combination-Saw-Blade-/220989169961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3373fb2129).

Just as an FYI: The $24.15 blade Scott linked to is the thin-kerf version. The standard 1/8" kerf blade is here for $39.10 shipped. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Onsrud-COM-10-126-50-10-Combination-Saw-Blade-/220989169979?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3373fb213b)

[John A langley]

Joseph - As much as I hate to I have to agree with Van. I will add be careful. However, one of the other concerns that people have on this is the bearings. I really don't believe that two teeth missing will screw up your bearings. I would probably not get a $30 blade fixed. But if it is the only blade you have use it until you are done with your project or until you need it sharpened then have them add a couple teeth to it. If you are prone to dropping things a rubber mat in front of the table saw has saved me a couplle of times.

[Tom Walz]

It depends on how and why the teeth came off.

Typically those teeth are about a C-4 grade which gives you a long life, smooth cuts, a good number of re-sharpenings but sacrifices a little bit of toughness to do this. In a situation such as you describe it is not unusual to see teeth in this grade break when dropped on a concrete floor.

If the teeth popped off because the bond between the carbide and the braze alloy gave way then it is a different matter. You can tell this happened because all you will see in the notch is a layer of braze alloy that is probably gold, yellow, maybe a little orange-ish or similar. It definitely does not look like steel and it definitely does not look like gray carbide.

If the teeth popped out because the braze joint failed then you have to consider the force on the first remaining tooth after the two missing ones. It will be taking about three times the bite it was designed to take and thus will have much greater force on it. In a situation such as yours is not unusual to see teeth “shell” out as much as five or six teeth back.

When these teeth shell out they typically get buried in the wood. Then the following teeth hit the teeth buried in the wood in these teeth break. Typically the tooth still on the saw hits the tooth buried in the wood and they both break. The teeth break in such a manner as to leave small, jagged parts with sharp edges and sharp points.

If it was truly impact damage to the carbide and not a failure of the braze joint then it should be okay to use as long as you take proper could caution against flying debris.

Part of this opinion is based on prejudice on my part. I have been doing tool failure and braze failure analysis for about 30 years. The chances of you actually being hurt by this blade are pretty small but they do exist. Having a piece of shrapnel lodged in your is a painful and very expensive. Most often there is actually nothing that can be done to restore your vision in that eye.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Tom,
I dropped the outer blade of my Freud SD206 a couple years ago and busted off either one or two teeth when it hit the metal frame of the saw.
At the time, I asked here if it was ok to use it and the replies were that it would be fine.
I've been using it since then and really can't see any difference in the cuts it makes.

Would the same info as above apply to that blade as well?

[Todd Burch]

I say make a test cut.

I have a premium blade (an old Budke) I got with my Powermatic back in '97. It's been a great blade. However, I took it to get sharpened (a company I had not used for TS blades before) 1/2 way through my kitchen project, and when I got it back, it made about 3 good cuts before I started getting splintering. Now, when even a bit duller, I realize the blade is warped, and it has to be due to the sharpening service. For example, cutting grooves for drawer a bottom moving slow is fine, but moving the wood at my normal speed, the runout / wobble in the blade is unacceptable, causing the wood to want to jump and even causing the wood to burn. Never had a blade do this before. I can see the runout.

So, I have all my teeth, but my test cuts tell me "don't use it - the blade is toast". Ticks me off.

What do your test cuts tell you? Are you in tune with your blade?

Oh, and I've broken teeth off too - no big deal.

[Joseph Tarantino]

since i'm from the "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" school of thought, i'll be disposing of the damaged blade. the mere thought of a carbide tip being hurled in my direction during a cut by a rotating saw blade is really unappealing.

scott.. thanks for the 1040x suggestion. freud tech support confirmed, and i was kind of surprised by this, that the diablo and freud "industrial" blades are made in the same factory. i don't know whether this is true or not, ("some days they make diablo blades and other days they make freud blades") but i'm ordering a d1040x shortly primarily because it resembles my damaged c-man blade and has a 15* hook angle. at $30 from amazon with free shipping, we'll see how it performs as a general purpose blade. thanks to all for the opinions.

[scott spencer]

since i'm from the "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" school of thought, i'll be disposing of the damaged blade. the mere thought of a carbide tip being hurled in my direction during a cut by a rotating saw blade is really unappealing.

scott.. thanks for the 1040x suggestion. freud tech support confirmed, and i was kind of surprised by this, that the diablo and freud "industrial" blades are made in the same factory. i don't know whether this is true or not, ("some days they make diablo blades and other days they make freud blades") but i'm ordering a d1040x shortly primarily because it resembles my damaged c-man blade and has a 15* hook angle. at $30 from amazon with free shipping, we'll see how it performs as a general purpose blade. thanks to all for the opinions.

The carbide on the Industrial blades is larger, and sometimes the anti-vibration slots are more elaborate, but AFAIK they're otherwise made in the same factory on the same equipment from the same materials to the same standards.

http://image.become.com/imageserver/s2/840215622-150-150-5-32/craftsman-professional-10-in-carbide-pro-saw-blade-40t-32808.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51cXyUweRFL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/5118WWZEE7L._SL500_AA300_.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51AZIUY4jxL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[Carpenter Mark]

Yeah, it'll work, but it hammer the crap out of your saw, more prone to kickback, etc. Take it to the nearest professional lumberyard- not a Big Box- and they most probably have a shop they send contrator's bades to and get it re-toothed and sharpened. Good blades are worth it. If you can replace it with the same quality at the same price as a re-tooth and grind, your right, it's not worth the trouble


So, I have all my teeth, but my test cuts tell me "don't use it - the blade is toast". Send it back and make them replace it. I've had blades and cutters wrecked by the cheap help at the saw shop and they have always come good for it.