Anyone use milk paint on their turnings?

[Jack Gaskins]

I want to try milk painting some bowls and was wondering if anyone has some suggestions on painting turned bowls and stuff. I already looked over the two main sellers of milk paint on the internet but was wanting to get some info from those that have used it on their turnings. Ive never used the stuff. I guess the questions would be about surface prep, number of coasts, top coat protections, how to mix colors. Which colors should I try first? For 6-9 inch bowls how far would a pint go?

Thanks, Jack

[Brian Kent]

I confess. I do not understand the attraction of milk paint. I won't hold my opinion against anyone, but I just don't understand.:confused:

[John Keeton]

Jack, something for you to consider - putting a water based paint on a turning can sometimes create a huge movement in a piece. From experience, I can tell you it can crack a turning in a heartbeat. I would strongly suggest you seal the wood with a few coats of shellac to avoid absorption of the water and the resulting swelling of the wood - possibly in a less than uniform manner.

[Sean Hughto]

I've experimented a bit with milk paint on bowls:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6188/6039006153_62de658d32_z.jpg
I used the "old fashioned" brand. I just used blo as the final coat. A pint bag would do several bowls I would think. Mixing is easy. Colors .. just suit yourself.

Nearly every antique wood bowl I've seen was painted. It was very popular back in the day apparently. I think it's a fun thing. I hope to do some more.

The bowl above was still slightly green when I turned it and painted it (right on the lathe). No cracks or issues at all. In fact, I think the paint being on the outside only meant that it dried from the inside out and helped a bit to avoid cracking - just my theory.

[John Keeton]

Sean, I recall seeing some of your milk painted bowls, and they are exceptionally nice! I do think the somewhat green wood benefits from the sealing effect of the milk paint. The problems I had were on bone dry wood - a hollow form that was painted on the inside and virtually exploded with a large crack.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I had the same problem when I used milk paint on a bowl. I didn't think of it but Sean you might be right about just painting the outside. I painted both inside and outside. The wood was bone dry. It split in two places. I put the paint in the cabinet and haven't touched it since. Hmmm may have to give it another go just on the outside. Thanks Sean.

Also John didn't even think of trying to use shellac first. Thanks.

[Brian Kent]

I've experimented a bit with milk paint on bowls:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6188/6039006153_62de658d32_z.jpg
I used the "old fashioned" brand. I just used blo as the final coat. A pint bag would do several bowls I would think. Mixing is easy. Colors .. just suit yourself.

Nearly every antique wood bowl I've seen was painted. It was very popular back in the day apparently. I think it's a fun thing. I hope to do some more.

The bowl above was still slightly green when I turned it and painted it (right on the lathe). No cracks or issues at all. In fact, I think the paint being on the outside only meant that it dried from the inside out and helped a bit to avoid cracking - just my theory.


OK. I have to admit. I like these.

[Jack Gaskins]

I saw some milk painted bowls at a craft show a few weeks back. The craftsman used rough turned bowls that were a little thicker and dry. He simply painted his rough outs and they looked fabulous. Rustic yet still had a nice finish with the paint color. Guess I will have to experiment. I looked around the internet and found some sites with painted bowls but they are for sale so they didnt have any information on preparing the bowl for painting.

[Michelle Rich]

Jack: I have milk painted chairs for a long long time and have also done quite a few bowls. I have never painted inside & out. Just outside. i have never had problems. No special procedure needed to use. Just follow directions on the bag.

[Jason Ritchie]

I've experimented a bit with milk paint on bowls:
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6188/6039006153_62de658d32_z.jpg
I used the "old fashioned" brand. I just used blo as the final coat. A pint bag would do several bowls I would think. Mixing is easy. Colors .. just suit yourself.

Nearly every antique wood bowl I've seen was painted. It was very popular back in the day apparently. I think it's a fun thing. I hope to do some more.

The bowl above was still slightly green when I turned it and painted it (right on the lathe). No cracks or issues at all. In fact, I think the paint being on the outside only meant that it dried from the inside out and helped a bit to avoid cracking - just my theory.

Sean, these are really nice bowls. The style and softness of the look really appeal to me. This inspires me to try it. I have seen milk paint at my local woodworking store but never knew what it was exactly until now.

[Steve Kubien]

I got some milk paint for Christmas and I've started playing with it. Love it!

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[Jon Nuckles]

The current issue of Fine Woodworking has a review of an alternative to milk paint that has recently been made available in the U.S., and the reviewer really liked it.

[Bruce Markwardt]

I have also used milk paint on Windsor chairs. When you paint it on it looks powdery and horribly uneven. You then rub it down with scotchbrite and the powder rubs off and the color evens out. When you put finish on it the color changes again.

One effect I like is painting contrasting colors over each other and rubbing some of the finish off. Creates an interesting "wear" appearance.

[Steve Harder]

I got some milk paint for Christmas and I've started playing with it. Love it!

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Steve - can you comment on the steps you are using to apply finish and paint? Most of the milk paint bowls I've seen attempt a "rough" look - but I really like the "smooth finish" look of yours.

[Del Hollingsworth]

Wow. I really like these bowls. I can't really find the words to describe it, though. The combination of the light wood and the soft Williamsburg-type colors is really nice. Well done.

[Jack Gaskins]

How much of a bag did you use on your bowls. just trying to gauge how far a pint bag of powder would cover.

[Sean Hughto]

It's not really that scientific. I had been painting a chair, and had an open bag. With milk paint, it's about getting to the consistency you want - more watery for a staining like effect up to sort of thick cream for opaque coverage. I don't use a formula, just pout some in a cup or jar and add water until it's how I want. A pint bag would likely do maybe 10 large bowls - just like a gallon of wallpaint though, things vary a lot depending on the color you are using, the color you are covering, how much yo0u waste in extra an on and on. Your milage will vary.

[Jack Gaskins]

Yeah I was just trying to gauge how much to order. I see most place sell pint and quart bags and there is one shop that sells only sets of sampler bags. I might order a set of the samplers and one or two pint bags.

[Charles Bjorgen]

I've never used milk paint and won't pretend to have expertise but I've been following on You Tube a 51-episode series on Windsor chair making by Curtis Buchanan. He uses milk paint as a finish and goes into much detail about mixing and brushing on this paint. The chair he made in this series has a milk paint undercoat of red over which he applies black. The way he handles the brush results in a dry technique which allows some of the red to come through. Over this he applies an oil finish and then a light coat of wax. Wish I could see the real chair. I expect the affect is pretty nice. Search on You Tube for Curtisbuchanan52 and you can locate the painting and other finishing episodes. They are toward the end of the series.

[Sean Hughto]

Here's a pic of a real Buchanan chair:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5241/5193086218_1094a6aba8_b.jpg

A prized possession!

Oh yeah, the turnings are incredible too!

[Jack Gaskins]

I've never used milk paint and won't pretend to have expertise but I've been following on You Tube a 51-episode series on Windsor chair making by Curtis Buchanan. He uses milk paint as a finish and goes into much detail about mixing and brushing on this paint. The chair he made in this series has a milk paint undercoat of red over which he applies black. The way he handles the brush results in a dry technique which allows some of the red to come through. Over this he applies an oil finish and then a light coat of wax. Wish I could see the real chair. I expect the affect is pretty nice. Search on You Tube for Curtisbuchanan52 and you can locate the painting and other finishing episodes. They are toward the end of the series.



Thanks Charles, I'll give it a look after work.

[Charles Bjorgen]

He starts mixing the milk paint in episode no. 46 and he's pretty specific about how he does this.