Dog Dish Finish

[John Yogus]

I'm making an elevated dog dish out of pine for a friend. What would you use to finish a piece like this? Not sure to go with a spar varnish, or a standard poly. Other recomendations would be appreciated also. Looking for the best durability. Also, once it's cured, I need it to be safe for the dog. Do all finishes cure safe for applications like this? I'm assuming it will be subject to a good deal of abuse from replacing dog bowls, standing water, paws, being nudged around, etc.

Thanks for the ideas.

[Scott Holmes]

indoor or out door?

[John Yogus]

It will be indoor

[Scott Holmes]

Use an interior varnish. Spar varnishes are for outside use they are softer more flixible AND ---> they are LESS waterproof and LESS water vapor proof.

[Huck Schwee]

I used a wipe on poly. Has held up pretty well over the last 2 years, especially since my dog is a pig and drips water and drool all over it. Once it gets dirty, I sprayed it with some water and wiped it off. Still looks good. I used pine for mine as well.

[Lee Schierer]

+1 on the poly. I've made two so far and both were poly and both have held up well despite being red oak which is harder to seal than pine.

[Pat Barry]

If the poly and varnish are no good for people, why would you use them for mans best friend? I would use a food safe finish like mineral oil. Either that or nothing at all

[Howard Acheson]

No one part finish is fully resistant to water penetration. If water is left to stand for long periods of time (3-5) days it will penetrate the finish and over time begin to cause the finish to lose adhesion. It will crack and begin to peel.

The most durable is a two part epoxy finish. It is non-toxic when cured.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> If the poly and varnish are no good for people,

Since the mid 1970's finishes have been required to be non-toxic when cured. There is no danger to man or beast for any finishes formulated for consumer use.

[Pat Barry]

Interesting Howard, then why does everyone get all worked up about using 'salad bowl' finish, mineral oil, beeswax, etc for projects such as cutting boards, bowls, plates, etc?

[Tom Scott]

Interesting Howard, then why does everyone get all worked up about using 'salad bowl' finish, mineral oil, beeswax, etc for projects such as cutting boards, bowls, plates, etc?

In this case, I think it is more of an issue of not wanting a hard finish that can chip, scratch, etc when being used. It is also easily renewable. You could use a varnish, but it would only look good right when it is new.

[Scott Holmes]

Interesting Howard, then why does everyone get all worked up about using 'salad bowl' finish, mineral oil, beeswax, etc for projects such as cutting boards, bowls, plates, etc?

Salad bowl finish is what the marketing guys came up with to sell more finish. Some of the manufactures' "food safe" finishes share the MSDS with another of their finish products that doesn't say food safe on it. Marketing! Salad bowl finishes are one of 2 camps... an oil/wax combo or a film forming finish.

As for working wood surfaces; any film forming finish can and will fail when it encounters a sharp knive edge. Once compromised it no longer protects the wood; stuff will get under the finish. Now stuff can grow and fester under the finish...

That's why the inert mineral oil and/or waxes are best for cutting boards etc.

[Howard Acheson]

Interesting Howard, then why does everyone get all worked up about using 'salad bowl' finish, mineral oil, beeswax, etc for projects such as cutting boards, bowls, plates, etc?

Others have already perfectly answered this question. It's not about toxicity, it's about effectiveness under cutting and chopping operations.

Since the laws banning lead in paints and finishes went into effect in the mid 1970's all finishes are required to be non-toxic when cured.