Lacquer based friction polish - wax?

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi all,I've been experimenting with shopmade friction polishes for small turnings, and have a question related to that. I know that for shellac-based friction polishes, you can melt in a small amount of beeswax to the blend (I'm using 1/3 shellac, 1/3 BLO, 1/3 DNA) to provide a higher sheen on the surface. Is it ok to do the same for a lacquer-based friction polish? I'm using 1/3 lacquer, 1/3 lacquer thinner and 1/3 BLO. I'd like to melt in some wax for the same reason, unless there's a reason not to. Also, is it possible to use carnauba rather than beeswax? I'm thinking it would result in a glossier result.ThanksLee

[John Keeton]

Lee, looks like no one has an answer to your question, but why not just try it and see if it works?

I guess I have never been enamored with this type of finish/polish as it is not designed to have any durability. Why not just use BLO to start (if you want the dark/amber look) and then spin on the lacquer or shellac, depending on your desires? Personally, I like the shellac as I like the warmth of it. If I use lacquer, it is because I want to avoid the amber look, and for that reason, I don't use BLO with it.

[Lee Alkureishi]

Hi John,

Thanks for the reply. I'll give it a go when I get home - just thought I'd ask to see if anyone had any experience with it.

On a related note - when you say "spin on the lacquer or shellac", are you applying it with the lathe running, spinning the spindle by hand, or applying off the lathe? I couldn't find much about applying lacquer on the lathe, but what I did see suggested the results aren't great.

What do you use as an applicator for the lacquer? Is a blue shop towel ok, similar to applying CA glue?

Thanks again,

Lee

[Thom Sturgill]

Lee, I apply thinned lacquer (1part Lacquer /4 parts thinner) by brush on the lathe spinning by hand only. Re-apply until the wood stops soaking it up. Dry and sand to about 1500 grit using Mineral Spirits for lube and check to see that minor imperfections are filled and any runs or sheeting are sanded off. Then apply rattle can lacquer lightly, sanding between layers and working from 1500 grit up to 12000 grit polishing cloths while turning and lubing with MS. Use a paper towel to keep the lacquer dust off the piece and prevent it from clogging the polishing cloths. It also stops the MS from splattering all over everything. A museum quality finish can be applied in well under an hour using this technique.

[John Keeton]

Lee, like Thom, I hand spin the piece while applying shellac or lacquer. I have not attempted to achieve "on the lathe" the level of finish Thom describes, but it certainly sounds like a good process. I use shellac as an undercoat, not as a final finish, although it certainly would work for that. There are other finishes that are more durable.

Lacquer is a high quality finish, but as with shellac, it is suspectible to damage from alchohol. No doubt, though, it can produce an excellent finish if done correctly.

[Lee Alkureishi]

...sanding between layers and working from 1500 grit up to 12000 grit polishing cloths while turning and lubing with MS.

Thanks for the input Thom - looking forward to trying it out. When you're sanding, is the lathe on or off?

Cheers