Finished in time to enjoy Easter.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hello forum members. I just finished work on another dt saw. This time a closed handle. The handle wood is Makore. The saw plate length is 10", and its been sharpened 14tpi rip tooth.

Regards; Stewie.



http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/d70103closedhandledt001.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/PICT0025.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/PICT0032.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/PICT0031.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/PICT0034.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/PICT0035.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/swagman001/closed%20handle%20D70%20concept%20dovetail%20saw/PICT0028.jpg



MAKOREtieghemella heckelii

Other common names: Baku, Abaku, Agamokwe,Douka, Dumori.
A large hardwood of West Africa.
The heartwood colour varies from pink-red to blood-red and red-brown. Sometimeseven with a purplish tinge.Texture fine to medium and even. The grain is often straight but many logs havea decorative or chequered mottle, sometimes with streaks of a darker colour.
Uses: Special furniture, cabinets, turnery, high-class joinery, interiorfittings, framing, paneling, carriage work and boat fit outs.
Seldom imported to Australia.

[george wilson]

Stewie,unless I am forgetting some other handle,this looks like your best work yet. May I suggest that you buy a Japanese saw sharpening file to get into the very "V" shaped area where the tongue of the handle meets the body? I got Two Lawyers using them for their razor sharp sculptured handle work. It is an ideal tool for getting into that area,and about the only one,indeed,that will do the work there.

The design is traditional,but I think it is a good way to build design skills by doing traditional work first. It teaches one how to draw correct curves,and how to make balanced designs. This knowledge then can be used to go into designs from yourself.

Also,very,very excellent saw teeth!!

[Jack Curtis]

Stewie,unless I am forgetting some other handle,this looks like your best work yet. May I suggest that you buy a Japanese saw sharpening file to get into the very "V" shaped area where the tongue of the handle meets the body? I got Two Lawyers using them for their razor sharp sculptured handle work. It is an ideal tool for getting into that area,and about the only one,indeed,that will do the work there....

Alex Gilmore (store on the bay: Japanblades) has got a pile of NOS various sizes, including wonderful 50/55 mm sizes.

[Stewie Simpson]

Hi George. Thank you for your kind appraisal of my latest saw. I have a number of different files I use to get into the tighter areas of the handles shape. These include the japanese saw sharpening files you mentioned, as well as a set of jewellery files. To strengthen the bond between the tongue and cheek I coated the area between with CA. I have worked hard on improving the look of my handle designs specifically focusing on improving the visual flow within their shape. In doing so I have become more aware of the importance to avoid including small areas of intricate detail within the design , as these can create high focal points that capture rather than allow the eyes to follow the full shape of the handle. I hope you understand my meaning. Thanks for your kind words on the saw teeth. It just shows a high standard of saw sharpening can be achieved by hand without the need of a Foley Retoother Machine. If you have another look at the last photo I have included a subtle difference to the 1st 2 inches of toe end teeth to create a softer start to the saw cut. See if you can spot the difference. Regards; Stewie.

[Stewie Simpson]

Alex Gilmore (store on the bay: Japanblades) has got a pile of NOS various sizes, including wonderful 50/55 mm sizes.

Thanks Jack. I think from memory it was Alex's ebay site that I purchased my stock of ja'/files from. Stewie;

[Sean Richards]

Stewie that is a great looking saw. Nice lines and well executed detail in the handle.

[Stewie Simpson]

Stewie that is a great looking saw. Nice lines and well executed detail in the handle.

Thanks Sean. The saw turned out nicely. To see the saw go from pen on paper to the completed project is always a nice experience.

[george wilson]

Your completed saw handle is better than the drawing,which has a flat area on the tongue. You eliminated that on the actual saw.

[Tony Shea]

I have to agree with George on this one, your best work yet for sure. I think you nailed it, your lines are nice and crisp including the transitions between the rounded and flat areas. These transitions follow the shape of the handle nicely, which is a good indication of someone who knows what they are doing. Great job Stewie!

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I really like this one, Stewie. Great job.

I've also really enjoyed the back and forth on these saw handles threads on this forum, seeing lots of examples of other's work, and hearing the comments by folks like George and Klaus ; I may not ever end up making my own saw handles, but paying attention to these threads I've learned a lot about the attention to detail and a think a fair amount of it is applicable to other forms.

I think one part I particularly love about this handle is the shape of the outlines of the cheeks - it looks great, and you see too many mass produced handles that just don't flow right in that part, too fat, or too simple a curve - I'm not quite sure what makes yours work so well, but it does.

[Jim Koepke]

Very nice, not much else to say.

jtk

[Zach England]

What kind of nuts/bolts are those?

[Stewie Simpson]

Your completed saw handle is better than the drawing,which has a flat area on the tongue. You eliminated that on the actual saw.

Thanks George. You not notice it too well in the last photo but the 1st 2 inches of toe end tooth do not have any set applied. This creates a softer start to the saw cut. The set teeth that follow behind widen the kerf and prevent the blade from binding.

[Stewie Simpson]

I have to agree with George on this one, your best work yet for sure. I think you nailed it, your lines are nice and crisp including the transitions between the rounded and flat areas. These transitions follow the shape of the handle nicely, which is a good indication of someone who knows what they are doing. Great job Stewie!

Thanks Tony.

[Stewie Simpson]

I really like this one, Stewie. Great job.

I've also really enjoyed the back and forth on these saw handles threads on this forum, seeing lots of examples of other's work, and hearing the comments by folks like George and Klaus ; I may not ever end up making my own saw handles, but paying attention to these threads I've learned a lot about the attention to detail and a think a fair amount of it is applicable to other forms.

I think one part I particularly love about this handle is the shape of the outlines of the cheeks - it looks great, and you see too many mass produced handles that just don't flow right in that part, too fat, or too simple a curve - I'm not quite sure what makes yours work so well, but it does.

Thanks for the feedback Joshua. There are a lot of very knowledgable and talented folk within this forum. I for one have relied upon their valued feedback many a time to guide me with my hand saw work.


Stewie;

[Stewie Simpson]

Very nice, not much else to say.

jtk

Thanks Jim.

[Stewie Simpson]

What kind of nuts/bolts are those?

Hi Zach. Their old saw screws that have had the rounded faces flattened off using a bench disc sander.

Stewie;