An interesting end grain slab.

[Brian Kent]

This is from a slab of a very wide sycamore log, cut off a few years ago. I knocked and pulled all of the weakest wood off, and then cut a circle out of a quarter of it. No pith involved. If it lasts, I will use it for dry mix or a cheese cutting board, so it does not have to handle wet stuff. It is pretty dry and has some cracks. I don't think it would help to dry it further.

I put it on the lathe and started rough turning for a platter or very shallow bowl. I'll continue with it slowly while wearing full armor, and I have a few questions along the way:


Should I leave it thicker like a cutting board or thinner like a bowl?

Should I keep going now or put a whole lot of ca glue in those cracks before I turn it more?

If I leave it thick, should I use mineral oil like on a cutting board when it's done?

If I turn it thinner, what sort of finish would help to stabilize it a little bit?

Thanks for any recommendations.

Brian

[Reed Gray]

I would want it 1 1/2 inches thick, which looks like about what you have. I would dribble thin glue in the cracks first, then chase it with the thicker stuff. The thin will pull the thick all the way through. Might take a couple of applications. You may want to use sanding sealer first so the glue doesn't wick out side the crack and leave a stain. For a finish, I would use walnut oil. It will cure and harden in a week or so, which mineral oil never does.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

Sanding Sealer like de-waxed shellac?

I'll look for thin and thick ca since I have never noticed the different types before.

Thank you reed.

[John Keeton]

Brian, the dewaxed shellac will work fine for sealing against glue stain. As an aside, you will need VERY sharp tools to get a good, clean cut on endgrain - and, always be aware that an endgrain slab is inherently prone to having chunks of it fly off. There can be hidden wind shake or other defects that might not be so disastrous with a face grain piece. Sounds like you are well aware of that with the "armor" comment.

[Roger Chandler]

Ditto what John said on the sealer.......... The mineral oil will wick into the wood if you use it, and will eventually go rancid. We had to scrape our butcher blocks twice a week and reapply mineral oil. I would use something like Mahoney's Walnut Oil if it were me, however.

[kevin nee]

Our turning club sells Eextra thin,thin, thin med, med, med thick, and gel CA glue,

Every problem that you run into you can buy something to bail you out.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Ditto what John said. Be careful. I also use Mahoney's or Wood Doctors walnut oil on all my cutting boards.

[Brian Kent]

I am not only wary, but expecting high odds that this will come apart. I an wearing goggles and face shield, standing to the side, and keeping it slow. It is 90% experiment and the rest just enjoying the colors that may come forth. I can see that dry end grain dulls the bowl gouge much faster!

[Jamie Donaldson]

Don't tempt fate by turning cracked Sycamore endgrain any thinner! The cracks, open grain and soft wood will make a poor functional cutting board.

[Thomas Canfield]

Spraying a thin coat of lacquer such as Deft will also protect the ajacent surface around cracks from CA and not tend to seal the cracks as a liquid sanding sealer would do. Sanding will remove the surface lacquer finish fairly easy. You can spot spray the needed areas only.