Neander 101 class question

[Mark Stutz]

:D I have a couple of very basic questions for all of you learned Neanderthals! :D

1. Is there any rule of thumb for the number of dovetails for any given width of board? For example, on a 6" board is there a big difference in strength from having 3 vs 4 tails?

2. When putting the last few smoother strokes on the inside face, it seems logical to do it after the joinery, in this case dovetails, is cut. Doesn't seem that you remove enough to make a difference, but I've never actually seen it addressed.

Thanks for putting up with my basic lack of experience. :confused: :D

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

Dovetail layout is part of the design and critical to hand cut dovetails. I always start with a half pin and I like use a variation in layout. This celebrates the flexibility that hand dovetails affords. A wide pin or tail adds interest to an array. On a small drawer a eccentric pin is interesting. Strength is not critical since it is a strong joint to start with.
The final planing is allowed for in the layout dimensions. Too tight is not good since it can bind. If the drawer is too small, you really need to start over. If its snug planning to fit is good...and then a little wax and it slides great...you know the feel!

[Alan Turner]

Mark,
As to layout, for a 6" board, you will necessarily have two half pins, leaving about 5" or so in the center field. Either 3 or four additional pins would be fine, or more is possible also. As to planing, assuming a drawer, I always finish plane the inside and outside before cutting the DT's, although to finally fit the drawer, I sometimes need to plane a bit more off the outsides if it is a bit snug.

[Derek Cohen]

Mark

(1) There is no fixed rule about the number of dovetails. Most will prefer an odd number since this looks more balanced.

(2) Finish the inside faces first (before cutting the dovetails). Otherwise it will affect your measurements (and remember - make sure your boards are square and flat). It is the outside faces that you can plane afterwards, usually to fit the drawer opening.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Singer]

Mark,
Some examples. On the rear dovetails you can raise the pin so it is not interrupted bu the dado for the bottom as shown. On NK drawers the bottom pin doesn't show. On pencil drawers an eccentric pin adds interest and balance. On a symmetrical layout you can make the spacing at the center larger and tighter towars the ends...

[Mark Stutz]

Thanks, gentlemen. Pretty much what I thought. My question applies to a wall hung tool cabinet, which will be underway as soon as I can practice the dovetails a little more. I am concerned that strength may be an issue with a fully loaded case. Trying to do as much Neander style as possible, so the back will be T&G rather than plywood,so not as much structural support. I'm thinking 4 tails would be ok.

Mark, what are NK drawers?

[Mark Singer]

Mark,



It is a Danish design where the drawer is built on a tray wider than the sides of the drawer, This minimizes the contact area of the drawer to te frame allowing a very smooth sliding drawer. There is a thread on this somewhere on this forum...