Glen-Drake Joinery Saw reviewed

[Derek Cohen]

A review of the Glen-Drake Joinery Saw is now on my website ...

inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/GlenDrakeJoinerySaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Griggs]

Nice review Derek. I must admit, this saw has never, and still does not appeal to me in the least, but I've always thought the kerf starter seemed like a neat idea. Seems like could be used for a lot of marking in the same way one will cut a v-notch with a chisel.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I have one of these (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Saws_and_slots/Fret_Slot_Cleaning_Tool.html?tab=Pictures#details) that I bought years ago for cleaning fret slots. I'm sure one could easily fashion a similar blade easily, using a small scraper; I think I got the tool in a kit or something. It was long ago. I sharpen the tip of it almost like a tiny little scraper, usually with no burr, but you can put one on it if you want. It works great for cleaning fret slots, of course, but it also works great run against a thicker straight edge to start a kerf when you're trying to be exact. I don't use it frequently, but sometimes it's just the thing for helping starting an awkward cut that wants to be dead on.

[Jim Koepke]

Derek,
I always enjoy your reviews. They are a great asset for woodworkers everywhere.

jtk

[Curt Putnam]

I was wondering if you would review the saw. Thank you for so doing.

I bought the saw last Dec for the simple reason that it is, thus far, the only saw I've seen that will fit my hand which, while not overly large, is larger than average. Since then Mark Harrell has come out with sizes that I assume will fit and David Young has offered to custom make one. I ordered Kevin's saw with the extra fat handle which fits me beautifully.

I began using the saw without the kerf starter. While this works, it is not the blade is designed for. I find that, after now using the kerf starter, I still don't like to do the full power swift stroke for the 1st stroke. I suppose that is beginner's hesitancy. When trying to cut to an exact tail angle, so far I do better by taking one slow stroke across the top and then lining up and the front line with the saw blade as close to vertical as I can get it. That way I can establish the cut on both lines at the same time. Once the kerfs are established, then a light, two fingered grip with full length strokes makes for a quick, easy, accurate cut. If I'm not worried about hitting the angle exactly, then the full power initial stroke, per Kevin's design, works well unless my stance isn't lined up correctly.

I should digress here and point out that while Kevin was teaching me how to use his saw, he told me about sawing by ear. When the grip is right and the stance is square and the stroke even, the saw makes a sweet "sawing" sound. When things aren't quite right, it "growls." Listening to the saw has made the single biggest improvement in my sawing "skills" to date. This tip works with all saws.

I have only GD and LV saws. Neither is traditional. Comparatively speaking, the GD saw is more comfortable for me. The LV's horns dig into my palm which is uncomfortable in extended use. At 14 TPI, the LV cuts a little faster as it should. For reasons I'm as yet unsure about, I start a cut well but, by the end, I've pulled the cut to the right. I'm reluctant to stone the blades because I think it unlikely that both saws would have the same amount of mis-set on the same side. The GD saw has an advantage in that one can keep working while a blade is off being re-sharpened. I've not experienced the "slippery" in the grip that you have. Overall, the GD saw feels better but I seem to cut slightly better with the LV. I should probably just pick one and make it work. I've started using the kerf starter no matter which saw I use - the cut edges seem to wind up just a little cleaner.

Again, thanks for your review. Very interesting.

[David Posey]

Just wondering, is your index finger extend out along the side of the saw when you use the LV or is it inside the handle with the rest of your fingers?

[Curt Putnam]

If you are asking me, then yes the index finger is extended alongside - a classic 3 finger grip.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi David

I found this complicated. The handle shape makes it difficult to both extend a finger alongside the brass back.

Holding it in the "hollow" places the hand too far back ..

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Glen-Drake%20Joinery%20Saw/handle1.jpg

Holding it at the top end, places the hand over the thickest section, which I found too broad. Also, I felt like it wanted to push my hand away from the top ...

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a262/Derek50/saws/Glen-Drake%20Joinery%20Saw/handle2.jpg

Regards

Derek

[Eric Brown]

Nice review Derek. I would suggest you try some freehand dovetailing. Trust the kerf starter. With two boards the same width, cut a variety of pins with different widths and angles. Then put the boards together for marking except, use the kerf starter as a poor mans offset gage. Shift the pin board over the the left by the kerf staters thickness and mark the left side of the tails with the kerf starter. Then shift the board to the right side and mark the right side of the tails. Note: the trick of cutting a shallow rabbet helps.

If you learn to avoid using a marking knife and trust the kerf groove, you will find it is faster and even easier on the eyes.

The kerf starters come in a variety of thicknesses for different saws and I use them for most marking, not just dovetails.

You can even use them for some inlay type grooving.

As for the handle on the saw, perhaps you should make a new handle thats more comfortable?

Thanks again.

Eric

[Shawn Pixley]

Derek,

Nice review. I suspect this saw isn't for everyone. Personally, I like it. I reversed the blade so it works as a pull saw which is my preference. I like the larger handle. I am tall and reasonably fit and thin. Nonetheless, when it comes to grips, i like bigger grips than my father and brother.

The bottom line for me is it cuts where I want.

[Brent VanFossen]

My thanks, too, Derek, for the review. I bought this saw just recently at a tool event Kevin was at. The untoothed portions of the blade and the way he varies the pitch made sense to me, and I don't feel like I "hit the gravel" in the way you describe. Kevin gives the saw a snappy aggressive push that just powers through the middle of the stroke. The saw moves the fastest right where the pitch of the teeth is greatest. And like you mention, Curt, listening to the saw will tell you when you're doing it right.

I don't have nearly the handsaw experience that Derek or some of the others here have, but the handle seems to fit my hand well, and I'm looking forward to the chance to work with this tool some more.