Overlap marks with leather dye

[Matt Day]

On my last project I used Fiebings leather dye (USMC black). I liked how the color came out, but the top was about 16"x60" and I could see overlap marks from applying the dye down the length.

Since then I've read a suggestion on FWW about flooding the surface with alcohol prior to dying, which is supposed to extend the 'open time'.

I also read on Joe Woodworker that I could add a retarder such as Behlen Solar Lux or Lacquer retarder that will help.

I'd like to use the the Fiebings dye I have on my next project I'm working on which also has a large top. It's tough to really test it because I need a large piece to test it on, and that could get expensive!

Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this?

Thanks

[Jeff Bartley]

Matt,
I'm by no means an expert on this subject, especially this specific product, but I did 'ebonize' the base of a piece several years ago using jet black india ink. It was very easy to use, no overlap marks, I used on of those inexpensive foam applicators. Of course, if you're trying to match two pieces this won't help at all!

[Scott Holmes]

Matt,

I can't find the carrier for this dye, all I see is "spirit" based. I'm guessing it alchol based but I'm not sure.

I use a lot of dyes both water and alcohol (denatured alcohol = DNA) based. When I use DNA dye I usually spray it because it is difficult to wipe or brush it evenly on large surfaces the DNA drys too fast.

Water soluble dyes are slower drying and easier to use on large surface whether you spray brush or wipe them on. Some dyes are water and/or alcohol soluble TransTint is an example. I would see if the dye you are using can be mixed with water; if so, it will slow the drying time and may allow you the get an even color.

Spraying would be the other option if the water doesn't mix.

[Matt Day]

Scott,

Fiebings is alcohol based, and if you took a whiff of it you'd know it in a second!

The basis of the question is about the retarders I mentioned since I'd like to use the dye I have, and if anyone has experience using them. I have some trasfast I'll use for another color, and I'll probably try water with that.

I'm not setup to spray, though I'd like to at some point.

[Scott Holmes]

Matt,

TransFast (powder) is water only TransTint (liquid) is water or alcohol.

Try your dye with water to delute/retard it... see if it works. I suspect it will. The water will slow the drying and you may be able to do larger sections without the lap marks.

Why buy a retarded if water will work?

[Matt Day]

Why buy a retarded if water will work?

Good point! I hadn't seen that mentioned in my research but I'll for sure give it a shot!