Help with brush on finish for kitchen cabinets?

[Frank Thompson]

I have been woodworking as a hobby for a number of years and have been content with over the counter finishes in the past. I am working on my first big project consisting of craftsman style kitchen cabinets from quarter-sawn white oak (solid wood and plywood) and I am thinking I should do something different, especially after looking through this forum. Any suggestions for a brush on clear finish? I’d like to consider waterborne finishes because of convenience but would not rule out other options. I will probably use a locally purchased oil based stain as a first step. Any suggestions or advise is appreciated.

[Scott Holmes]

Using a brush for a kitchen full of cabinets will take a long time; it can be done, it can look wonderful.

Many waterbornes (especially the really good ones) are spray only. Also, most waterbornes will need a barrier coat of shellac before you put it over an oil based stain.

What look do you want, gloss, satin, etc? What color you want can impact the choices too.

[Prashun Patel]

Frank, if you don't have access to spray equipment and if you don't mind the amber tones it might impart, then I humbly suggest you try doing a wipe-on oilbased varnish topcoat. It takes more nominal time bkz you have to do more coats vis-a-vis brushing, but it is also quite a bit easier for many reasons. There are 2-3 very well-reputed varnishes that have good durability and ease-of-application.

[Frank Thompson]

For color we want a mid-range brown, but not too dark, and are thinking a satin sheen. Most critical criteria is we want to bring out the beautiful flecking and grain in the quarter sawn oak. I have used varethane water borne satin poly and minwax oil based fast drying poly on past projects and these brushed on OK but I agree with comments about the plastic like look. I have time to spend on this so more labor intensive methods are OK if the results warrant it. I didn't mention that the boxes are all pre finished plywood frameless design--so it’s essentially just the door and drawer fronts and a few side panels. I also have a turbine type hplv sprayer I bought on clearance a few years ago but have never used--so if spraying is the way to go I can start practicing and experimenting with it.

[Frank Thompson]

So after a little more research here are some options I'm considering. First step for all is a brush on wipe off American walnut Varathane Stain because it gives us the color we want and doesn't seem to bleed from the pores in the oak. For top coats I'm considering: Pratt and Lambert 38 (because it’s so clear); or Sherwin Williams fast drying varnish (because it’s available locally) or if I go the water borne route a coat of Zinser Sealcoat then General Finishes’ PolyAcryic. What do you think?

[Scott Holmes]

Good plan.
One bit of caution... Sherwin Williams Classic Fast Dry Oil Varnish is a very good varnish. It is an alkyd resin/linseed oil varnish that is hard and clear, it doesn't yellow too much over time.

It has one trait that you should know about... I have found that even after 24 hours or so, excessive wiping with mineral spirits (MS) will soften the finish and leave wiping marks. For this reason I don't use it as a wiping varnish (most varnishes mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits will result in a wiping varnish). After a few days or longer the varnsih has cured enough to prevent any softening from MS.

Pratt & Lambert #38 is an excellent alkyd resin/soya oil varnish. It dry hard and clear (even though it looks purple in the can); will not yellow over time. One of my favorite varnishes...

[Prashun Patel]

I'm not a fan of polycyclic. I think your other choices are good.