Bubinga Table - Final Pics

[Todd Burch]

The table was delivered today. A very happy cleint. Even though the table is 108" x 48", it does not overpower the room. It fits perefect.

Next high-end project - a display clase made from white oak that was recycled from a log cabin my clients Great Grandfather made in Illinios in the late 1800s.

Todd

[Todd Burch]

And here's the base, belly up. This is one sturdy and heavy table.

[Roger Myers]

Wow!! Todd that is so beautiful and to see it in its home like that is a real treat. It looks beautiful and you really did justice to that beautiful piece of Bubinga...
I love the design and I love the finish...and I generally trend to the more traditional designs...
Congrats on another inspiring piece of work!!
Roger

[Jason Tuinstra]

Todd, as you know we at SMC have been waiting a long time for these pic's - what about a year?

Well, like fine wine, it's been worth the wait! You can certainly be proud of this piece. From the design to the execution, you hit the nail on the proverbial head. The figure on this piece is increible. I'm sure the hardest part about this project is handing over the keys to the new owner. I'm sure they're very happy. I just hope they'll appriciate all the time and effort you put into this piece.

Congrats!

Jason

[Byron Trantham]

Oh My God! What a beautiful table. Todd, how in the heck did you let loose of that thing? How did you finish it? I'll bet the customer was blown away! There is just no way of knowing how beautiful (or not) a piece might turn out when you start. Where do you go from there? Topping that one will be a chore!

[David Fried]

Really striking!!! I'm sorry I couldn't come down and help you snap off screws!

[Per Swenson]

Superb!
ace, admirable, august, best, breathtaking, choice, elegant, elevated, exalted, excellent, exquisite, fab, fine, glorious, gorgeous, grand, greatest, in orbit, lofty, magnificent, majestic, marvelous, matchless, noble, optimal, optimum, outstanding, peerless, prime, proud, rad, resplendent, solid, splendid, splendiferous, splendorous, standout, state-of-the-art, stunning, sublime, super, superior, superlative, tops, unrivaled, very best, zero cool
Per

[Tyler Howell]

Bravo Bravo!

[Bob Stegemann]

WOW! Awesome table!!

[Keith Outten]

Beautiful work Todd.

[Tony Falotico]

Todd, you are still Da Man !! Scalloped edge and All......... Absolutely Beautiful !

[Keith Cope]

That's a great looking table, Todd!

[Mark Stutz]

Per used up all the adjectives!I never had a doubt it would be nice, but this defies description!

[Corey Hallagan]

Wow, very nice. Beautiful work!!

Corey

[Jerry Clark]

Great looking table and it fits well in the room-- Thanks for sharing the project, we all have been nervous and can now relax! :)

[lou sansone]

the table really is spectacular. The wavy edge is a very nice addition. What precautions did you take to keep the table so flat? I would assume that the base plays a big part in keeping it flat. Is bubinga just real stable?

lou

[Mark Singer]

It is really wonderful as everyone said. Are the screws in slots that would allow for movement across the grain? Great....great work!!!!

[Gary Herrmann]

Breath taking

[Bill Sampson]

Todd,
Thanks for sharing your work. You have allowed us to see an extraordinary piece of wood, transformed into a beautiful table, by the hands of a wonderful craftsman!!
Bill Sampson, Richmond

[Herb Blair]

Beautiful work Todd!

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

Beautiful design and material. Congratulations. I have to ask, how did you handle wood movement for the under table attachments?

[Andy London]

Oh my gosh that Buginga is amazing!!! I have been buying it for years and while I have seen figure like that, it never seems that I can find it.

Beautiful work and I won't ask what it wheighs....must have been trying to build that unit!

Andy

[Earl Reid]

Outstanding table and workmanship, my wife also likes it.
Earl

[Brad Schmid]

Another incredible piece of work Todd. Just amazing!
Brad

[Larry Crim]

Awesome!!!!!!!!

Did you do the chairs also or were they existing? How about a little quip on how you finished it.

Really good job.
Larry

[John Miliunas]

Well Todd, we all expected a great piece! You outdid yourself!:) Magnificent!!!:) :cool:

[Mike Cutler]

All the good adjectives are taken Todd. All I can say is WOW, and being from California I can say it backwards..WOW.
It was well worth the wait bro', very nice job...very nice indeed.

[Bob Marino]

Todd,

What everyone said already :) .
I would love to know the details - sanding/planing, finish, joinery and those scalloped edges!

Bob

[Wes Newman]

Todd, Outstanding!!!!!

[Scott Coffelt]

Holy cow, that is one nice table. Glad I got to see it. I love the wavy edge and the base is awesome.

[Silas Smith]

As a fellow Houstonian, you make our city proud. I could sit and look at that table for hours. Breathtaking.

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

It's all been said...but I'll say it again. :) That's stunning.

KC

[Dan Forman]

Todd--- All of the superlatives have already been us
de, so I'll just say dang, that's what I call a table!!!

Looking at the top, I can't see any indication that you have had to glue up any panels, it looks like either one big honkin board, which was used as is, or bookmatched. So my question is, how many boards went into the making of that top, and how did you dress it so as to avoid any chipout, as highly figured wood is want to do. Does busy curl like that lose itself amidst the rest of the curl to help blend in the boards?

Hope you can find time to answer this beginners question.

Dan

[Alan Turner]

Very nice execution, Todd. HOw did you achieve the wavy edge? Did you add any color to the top? Was there any sapwood on the edges of the plank which you had to color match? I have some bubinga planks, quite thick, but with much sapwood, and I have played with coloring the sapwood with dyes, which seemed to work pretty well, but I haven't actually built anything of it yet. Also, were you able to get a hand plane to work on the top? To me, Bubinga is one difficult wood to hand plane without tearout.

[Todd Burch]

Hi All, and thanks for the positive comments. It *IS* a very nice table. I give God credit for the wood, and my talent.

OK, let's answer some questions:

Jason: Handing over the keys was fine, as he handed over the check in exchange! I can always make another ;)

Lou: I took a gamble (well, I used a few years of experience too), that I could pull the top flat with the base. I didn't measure it, but across the 4' width, there was probably a 3/8" to 1/2" crown with the top facing up. I could stand over the top with it on my bench and flex it by pressing down, so I figured that the 54 screws I was using to connect it to the base could do their job just fine - and they did. When screwing the base to the top, I did it with the table upside down, and started in the center of each cleat and worked my way to the edges. It is now, "as flat as a board!" I used 13mm thick Ash, 3 pieces, 8" wide by 44" long, to connect the top to the base.

David: In reference to snapping off screws- I solved that problem. From McMaster-Carr, I ordered some high-performance hardened steel screws that are designed to be used with an impact driver and have serrated teeth. They worked perfectly.

Mark, Herb & Don: I slotted the outer screw holes (holes closest to the edge of the table) in the cleats. I expect the wood will not expand from where it is now, but only shrink. It might reexpand later, but no more than what it is today. So, I elongated the holes in the cleats to allow for shrinkage.

Andy, the top weighs more than 1 sheet of MDF, but less than 2 sheets. I would guess around 130-150 pounds. Being careful, I could not flip it over by myself. The base is not really that heavy. I can carry it on my shoulder with one hand. When the two pieces were screwed together, when I pushed on the table, it did not budge one iota. Very sturdy. I guess it's somewhat of a torsion-type of assembly.

Larry: I did not do the chairs. The homeowner bought them custom made from a production wholesale manufacturer. Interestingly enough, they were delivered as I was in the middle of my install.

Finishing turned out to be no big deal - just a lot of elbow grease. I did not know how I would go about smoothing it, or the results that I would get with smoothing, so I started on the bottom of the tabletop. This turned out to be very prudent.

I started out with a Lie Nielsen #8. One very nice plane. I was making progress with it, but the board had a slight cup to it where when upside down, the edges were high. If I planed end to end, the plane was effective, but with the combination of wild grain and a wide throat, I experienced tear out. I got better results edge to edge, cross grain, but due to the length of the plane, it was only catching the edges. I didn't need it flat, I just needed it smooth. So, I put away the #8.

Next choice was the Lie Nielsen Large Scraper Plane. That too is a nice plane, but going from Lumbermill-Bandsaw rough with a scraper is not something that I had time for. I put it away.

Third choice was a Lie Neilsen Smoother with their High Angle Frog. This worked fantastic. The throat opening is as tight as my Record Shoulder plane. No tearout and very little catching. I used it across the grain until the cup of the wood took over and I lost traction. I would have had to really increase the amount of iron showing, and even tried that, but it then caught too much, and my shoulders were giving out too. Trying to push a plane and lean over a 4' wide board ain't easy.

Next, I remembered I had a Makita Power Plane. Man, talk about productivity, but at the significant cost of tearout running with the grain. I used it cross grain, and it did better, but then I started getting chip out.

So,... I looked at my two little Ryobi 3" x 21" belt sanders. They looked back at me. They looked at the Bubinga, and then looked back at me. I felt their pain. I put the little guys back on the shelf and went to the Borg and bought a Porter Cable 4" x 24" variable speed belt sander. (A REAL belt sander!) There's just something nice feeling about a belt sander you can sit on while using. Amazing.

I went from 50 grit, to 80 to 120 belts and stopped at 150 ROS. As I moved up through the ranks, each pass went faster. I now had a good feel for what it would take to do the top and guarantee no chipout and tearout - just sand it. The bottom of the top looks good enough for being the bottom of the top. I epoxied any tearout and chipout along the edges around the top where someone sitting at the table might run their hand underneath to feel for smoothness. I was done with the bottom.

I (and my neighbor) flipped the top over. I got up on the slab, on top of my bench, and started belt sanding. The first pass with 50 grit took about 90 minutes. The Porter Cable Belt Sander is made for a right handed person. I'm left handed (or at least I was holding the front of the sander with my right hand) and the air exhaust was blowing right out on my wrist. Talk about getting hot!!

I went through 50, 80, then 120, then I was done with the belt sander.
(EDIT: Then 150, 180, and 220 ROS)

Now, this whole time, I'm also having to fill the inclusion with epoxy, let that dry overnight, and sand it too, and redo it when bubbles happened.

Overall, I probably spent 7 or 8 days sanding it, working an hour here, 3 hours there, etc. I generated between 2 to 3 gallons of bubinga dust.

The wavy edge was cut with a Festool Jig Saw. I used the finest blade I had, which wasn't very fine. It motored just fine through the wood - which is more than I can say for my Sears 5 1/2" Industrial circular saw. When I cut the 3' off the end of the slab to make it 9' long, the Sears saw just about didn't make it. It stalled, and coughed and sputtered and grabbed. This is when I clued in to the fact that Bubinga is as tough as nails - certainly tougher than most screws!! (Darn, should have used that Festool...)

I first tried sanding the edges with the corner of my Festool 150/3 ROS. No go. The wood was too hard and by only using the edge of the 6" wheel, it did little more than vibrate - no circular motion. The Rotex would have worked better, but that's one tool I don't have ;). Plus, after spending 10 minutes, 2 sheets of paper, and only traveling about 2" along the edge, I realized that the Festool was not the proper tool for the job. I went to Houston and picked up a Porter Cable #121 - the handheld Oscillating Spindle Sander and an assortment of extra spindle diameters and plenty of paper. The sander was $289 (not the best price, but when it's the only one you can find - you take one for the team and buy it) and with all the accessories, I walked out of there $522 later. Ouch.

However, my investment paid off. It took about 15-20 minutes to sand the entire edge. The sander was perfect for the job at hand. I only used two grits: 60 followed by 120. Later, I hand sanded with 150 and the edge was done. I gave it about a 1/4" roundover, and touched that up again with 150. I did a climb cut around the whole edge, top and bottom, and did not get any tearout. I figure I now have a lifetime supply of sandpaper tubes!!

OK, the edges are smooth, the bottom is smooth enough, all epoxy-ing is done, and the top is pristeen. It's at this point that I let it sit for a day or so and mentally psyched up for the finishing process. I had never worked with Bubinga before, but I knew I wanted to bring out the figure. So, in my book, that means one thing: Boiled Linseed Oil. I mixed up a 50/50 batch with some naptha and gave each side 3 good coats, one after the other. If you ever want to impress your neighbors, have them watch you put some oil on figured wood.

I let that dry overnight and then lacquered it (dull lacquer) the next day. Spraying big flat surfaces like that, that you can't reach over, is not easy. Plus, I was having some issues with my gun, and it may need to be sent to the shop. But, I did get it covered well. I even did something that I had never done before, and that was after I had 2 coats on the table, I took my Festool 150/3 with 220 paper, and sanded the whole top again. I normally only hand sand between coats with 220. This step proved to me that the top was indeed smooth, even though it had only been processed with a handheld belt sander. The last coat went on... OK. Because the gun was acting up, I had a few tiger stripes and some dry spray areas. After it dried overnight, I hit it with 600 grit wet, with water, and that took a lot of the yuk off. Then, I dry steel wooled it, #0000, then I waxed it. I was not happy with it, but it was time to deliver it. Before I showed it to the client, I forewarned him that I was not completely satisfied with the buffing out of the top, and that in a few weeks, I would be sending a guy out to buff it out.

In the light of the dining room, I had a hard time seeing any areas that still needed attention, but I know it's there and it's not done. I contacted my buddy who does this every day for a living and he'll go out in about a month and put the finishing touches on my finish.

All the joinery for the base is mortise and tenon. The tenons were cut on the tablesaw while all the parts were still rectangular. The cheek cuts were done on the bandsaw, and the tenons were fine tuned with chisels and a Record Shoulder plane. The blind mortises were hollowed out with a 1" forstner bit on the drill press, and the sides were finished with a chisel. I left the ends of the blind mortises rounded, and used a rasp to round the tenon corners.

The through tenons for the stretcher that go into the middle uprights were also cut on the tablesaw/bandsaw, and I left the corners square. The through mortises in the middle uprights had to be laid out on both sides of the piece. This layout needs to be perfect. Had I laid it out when it was still rectangular, my life would have been easier. It is 1 1/8" wide and 6" long. In each mortise, I drilled a 1" hole at either end. I then used my jig saw from hole to hole to remove the majority of the waste. Then, it was chisel time. I think each mortise took well over 2 hours. I eased up on it and test fit as I went. I used a pencil to darken the faces of the tenon, and the fit the tenon into the mortise. I then separated the two pieces and looked into the mortise too see where it was dark from pencil. I then simply removed all traces of graphite with my chisel, and repeated the process until the tenon went all the way through - a perfect, snug fit. I had to be most careful right the end, as I wanted a very tight gap on the show side. I had cut the tenon about 1/16" long, and that was just right as I sanded it flush when done. I used a 1/2" shoulder for all the mortises.

Dan: That is one big honkin' board. It started out 144" long and 52" wide.

Alan: To get the wavy edge, I simply followed the grain lines. I laid out my overall rectangle for the top as 4' x 9' with a wide red lumber crayon. Then, with a dark pencil, using the red line as a "guide", I drew along the woods wavy grain lines, in and out of the guide line. Then, I just jig-sawed my line, kinda like paint-by-numbers!

There is no color added, lest the natural warming by the BLO. There is a narrow line of sapwood along one edge, and some sapwood around the inclusion I had to epoxy. I left it light. My client was into the naturalness of the wood as it came from the tree, ala Nakashima-style, which made my job easier. Yes, it was difficult to handplane. I had the best results with the High Angle Frog.

That's about it I guess. Well, other than all the things you learn from the wood while working it. I learned a little about the bandsaw that cut this wood. It must have been VERY, VERY big. There was one tooth that had an extra heavy set in it. Along the 12' length of the original slab, in three places, there was an identical tooth mark that was extra deep. It was all I could do to sand these out. Even now, I can still find the marks. One mark is in the cutoff piece. From side to side, the band advanced about 4 inches, so either they cut this at an angle (doubtful), or from the time the high-set tooth entered the wood on the right, by the time the tooth exited the wood on the left, it had advanced 4 inches. So, it looks like it was REALLY moving fast.

Todd

[Jay Knoll]

Todd

Thanks so much for the pics and all the detailed information on the project, you certainly did a wonderful job and the outcome is awesome. DUDE!

Can't wait to see the next project.

Jay

[Richard Wolf]

Beautiful table, nice follow up story. Maybe you could tell us how you finished the base?

Richard

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Unbelievable! Thats a goregous table Todd....you've outdone yourself once again!!

PS...thanks for the follow up story!

[Todd Burch]

Richard: No big deal on the base. After it was glued up (epoxy), I used epoxy thickened with microfibers to fill any the gaps in the joinery - I knew it was getting painted, so less precision was allowed when joining. I also coated the endgrain on the two bottom feet and upper 3 cleats, as endgrain is always an issue anyways. Sealing it with epoxy makes endgrain an non-issue.

I ROS sanded the base to 120. I applied 2 coats of Clawlock (search this forum for more info on it), then used wood putty to fill any cracks or splits. I sanded the puttied areas to 150 and then the whole thing by hand to 220 fre-cut paper.

Then, two coats of flat black lacquer, hand sanding with 220 after the first coat. Finally a coat of dull lacquer. All edges got a 1/8" roundover prior to the initial priming.

There's always the concern that a 4 (or more)-footed piece will not sit flat on an uneven (or even!) floor, or, that you won't get it perfect and build into it a slight twist. With 3 feet, you are guaranteed a stable placement anywhere. But with 4, you have to get it right - UNLESS, there is built into the piece enough flex that it conforms to the floor. And that is the case with this table.

Even though the stetcher that connects each end is 58" long, and 2 1/4" thick by 4" tall, it still is able to flex. Once the weight of the top is added, it's like clamping the base to the floor and it sits dead flat. Hooray for heavy tops over a trestle base!!!

The center cleat is interesting. It is dadoed 1 3/4" deep to lap over the center of the stretcher. The stretcher was not dadoed - I didn't want to take any integrity out if it. The middle cleat is screwed, 4, to the strecher. Even though the joint is very tight, it you grab one end of the middle cleat (prior to the top being on), you can move it up and down ("see-saw" it) maybe 1/4" to 3/8" at the ends. But, that doesn't matter in the design. What matters with the center cleat are these two things:

1) It keeps the top flat and removes any bow or cup in the middle of the span between the two firm end cleats, and
2) It supports the weight of the top mid span to keep it from sagging.

The top itself can't flex (measureably), therefore the middle cleat won't flex (like a see-saw) once screwed to the top.

The whole assembly is like taking a loose string of beads and pulling the string tight - it pulls all beads into position and firms everything up as a unit.

Todd

[Ken Shoemaker]

The most beautiful table I've ever seen.... Only one person could be more pleased than me to see it... The persons house that is not it's home... Well done.......

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Todd
That table is absolutely stunnig,looks like it belongs in a museum. You did that piece of Bubinga good. WWWWWWOOOOOOOWWWWWW

Thanks for sharing pics Tom

[John Shuk]

Nice work doesn't begin to describe.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

So the top could be considered a 'tuned mass damper' huh? :D:D

Brilliant work Todd...only wish I could have seen it in person before you delivered it. I love big tables. If I ever build one for myself or someone else, I may need to ask a question or two.

[Doug Cowan]

That is an amazing piece of wood, and you truly did it justice. Fantastic!!!! Thanks for sharing it.

[Rich Konopka]

Great Job Todd !! I bet you get a whole lot of satisfaction from that table rather than coding assembler :)

Thanks for sharing your latest masterpiece.

[Dan Forman]

Thaks for filling us in on the process.

Dan

[Jim Becker]

I'm nearly speechless....believe it or not! :D

A really terrific job, Todd. I really love the design as well as the workmanship and this project shows why so many of us consider you a "master". Really.

[Lou Morrissette]

Unbelievably beautiful work! You breathed life into that piece of wood. Great job.

Lou

[Dan Mages]

Holy cow that table is sweet!! Congrats on a job well done!

Dan

[Ernie Nyvall]

Well Todd, I won't say I'm speechless, but that table has given me writer's block. It's beautiful. I hope I can catch you at the Wood show next Sunday afternoon.

Ernie

[Bill Arnold]

Excellent work, Todd!

[Dennis Peacock]

Outstanding Todd!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

The LOML said that your table "shore is purdy!!!!!" So you have received the LOML's "seal of approval"!!!! Shows you do most excellent work. :D

[Dan Gill]

Beautiful job, Todd. And that wood is just marvelous!

[Mike Scoggins]

Todd,

There's not much left that hasn't already been said, but I still have to say, "WOW" and "Job well done!"


I give God credit for the wood, and my talent.

You're so right regarding to whom credit is due! But I must add He did very good on both accounts. The beauty and size of that bubinga make it spectacular; God is amazing. The completed table is yet another piece of evidence of the enormous talent, He's given you!

Great job, and thanks for sharing,
Mike

[Chad Pater]

Outstanding. Very, very nice.

[Martin Shupe]

Just wanted to add my voice to the chorus...

Outstanding, simply outstanding!

But then, I fully expected that from you.

Thanks for filling us in on the "how you did it", too.

Now, when do you start on your other big slab?

[Keith Starosta]

:eek: :eek: :) :)

Awesome.

Keith

[Jason Tuinstra]

Just wanted to add my voice to the chorus...

Outstanding, simply outstanding!

But then, I fully expected that from you.

Thanks for filling us in on the "how you did it", too.

Now, when do you start on your other big slab?

Other big slab? What's up Todd? I thought you only bought one of those bad boys. Did you get two??? Come on Martin, give us the goods.

[Todd Burch]

Er... a.... Hmmmm.... er.... yes, I have another slab. Why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price?

;)

Actually, the second slab is for the original client that ordered a big oval table. When I bought his slab, I bought an extra. This was the extra piece. I talked to the original client yesterday evening and gave him the option to make up his mind or cancel the order. If he cancels, I'll find a new client that wants a really nice conference room table. I'm thinking the same design, but full length - as close to 12' as I can go, and with 3 legs instead of two.

[Robby Phelps]

Wow Todd nice work. The table is simply gorgeous. I am courious though, where did you get the Bubinga slabs? I have just fallen in love with figured Bubinga and have used it on a few clients projects over the last year. I am always on the lookout for another supplier. Again wonderful table and I look forward to seeing more of your work.

[Bryan Nuss]

A stunning piece of craftsmanship, Todd!

A "Master"-piece!
Many thanks for the construction details.

[Jeremy Niemann]

I'm curious what the final finished price was for the client (if you can say)?

I only ask because of all the time, effort, and tools you had to use/buy for such a project.

[Todd Burch]

What do you think it should have been? ;) Let's vote...

[Frank Bertrand]

That's a very nice piece of bubinga. Thanks for the detailed rundown on the design/build process.
Can I ask why you decided to screw the top to the base?

[Keith Starosta]

What do you think it should have been? ;) Let's vote...

Let's seeeee......I'd say........one MEEEEEELLION dollars..... :D

Keith

[Todd Burch]

That's a very nice piece of bubinga. Thanks for the detailed rundown on the design/build process.
Can I ask why you decided to screw the top to the base?

I couldn't think of a better way?

[Frank Bertrand]

Ok, fair enough.

[Chris Padilla]

I haven't been posting much lately but just had to commend you on a very nice job. The wife wants something similar so she can check out your work and get some ideas! :)

[Jeremy Niemann]

What do you think it should have been? ;) Let's vote...

Given that you bought two new sanders and spent 7-8 days sanding alone is a significant investment in the project, both equipment and labor wise.

Possibly starting about $20k or higher?

[Todd Burch]

Given that you bought two new sanders and spent 7-8 days sanding alone is a significant investment in the project, both equipment and labor wise.

Possibly starting about $20k or higher?

I wish. Everyone is WAY high. Except Keith - he's outta his gourd. I will not be offended by any guesses. I'll make it fun. Closest guess get's a Burchwood USA hat (Crooked bill and all) mailed to them.

Byron Tranthom - you don't get a vote, and keepa you mouth a-shut. :)

[Mike Scoggins]

Ok, Todd -- here's my wild guess: $6700.00.

I truly have no idea what something like that beautiful table goes for, but here's hoping for a Burchwood USA hat.

Thanks for the shot,
Mike

[Jim Becker]

I'll guess $4500...

[Frank Bertrand]

$2850 would be my conservative estimate, although I don't know what the bubinga slab cost.

[Chris Daigh]

My guess is around $6500-7000. Hope I'm not too low. What ever you got its probably not enough for such a great table. That is one beautiful piece of bubinga. What was it a b.f. Westpenn Hardwoods had some for $60 a b.f.

[John Miliunas]

Well, it's gorgeous and BIG. Lots of detailed work into it and a one-of-a-kind slab 'o wood. I'll put in for $5200.00.:) :cool:

[Lars Thomas]

Great table . . . my guess is $5150.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Hmmm... my guess is $5350

[Silas Smith]

I'll guess it's a number between $1 and $100,000. Go ahead and send me the hat because whatever the number is, I got it right :). You could just give it to me at the woodworking show this weekend. OK, I guess I'll go with $4750 (although $20,000 would be a steal.

[Earl Reid]

I would guess about $6250. and it should be double that.
Earl :)

[Rob Russell]

Great job, Todd. Happy client means more work!

[Homer Faucett]

I had to join just to let you know how gorgeous I think that table is! I really have no experience buying exotic wood, especially in slabs, but I would think that slab itself cost well over $1000 (just guessing, no idea). Factor in the other tool purchases, supplies, and time and craftsmanship, and I think $12,500 would be a more than reasonable price.

Striking, one-of-a-kind piece!

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I'll say $4k...I can always use another hat....:D

[Aaron Montgomery]

Great table Todd! I wouldn't give you less than $7385 for it. Now where did I put my checkbook.. You do take personal checks, right?.. ;)

[Alan Turner]

I think the number is $9500. That's my story, and I'm sticking with it.

[Mark Singer]

$5900 it is too low !!! But that is what I am going with

[Bill Sampson]

Todd,
I would guess in the $8200 range.
Bill Sampson

[Frank Bertrand]

A number of people are factoring in the extra tools that Todd had to buy in the final price, umm, you don't get to do that.

[Jon Olson]

The piece is awesome from my view!!! I'd love every meeting if I had to sit at that table...but I'd probably spend most of the meeting time rubbing my hands across the table surface and looking under at the legs then paying attention to my boss :0

Well, I'd guess about $4800 - Way to low for the quality and beauty of the piece but that's my guess. (I hope I'm way off and you got $10K for it!!!!)

Jon

[Homer Faucett]

A number of people are factoring in the extra tools that Todd had to buy in the final price, umm, you don't get to do that.

Well, you do need to factor in the tools required to do a job when pricing. Maybe simply an amortized price for the tool, but it does need to be factored in. Not doing so would be a bad business decision, and it should be a consideration when pricing out work.

It's really not as cut and dried as to whether you "get" to factor in the price of new tools, as the tools involved in a job will nearly always be factored in somehow, or the craftsman will soon go out of business. If the tools purchased substantially reduced the man hours involved (one reason for technology--labor saving), you might price the tools into the job by the man hours saved. If a tool is absolutely necessary in one job, but not another (and all things are equal), you would expect to pay more for the job requiring the additional tool. In that respect, unusual tools or more tools required to do a job are always going to be priced into a job.

Ultimately, where the rubber hits the road in pricing is what a willing buyer and willing seller can agree upon. However, tools will always be priced into a job, and a job requiring new tools will typically be priced higher. Otherwise, the craftsman quickly loses his shirt. Just my humble thoughts.

[Lars Thomas]

Not to hijack this thread, but while I may not price in tools per se, I certainly price in tooling like cutters, router bits etc.

[David Tiell]

Breathtaking!! That's all I can say!!

[Todd Burch]

The current average guessed price since I set your guesses straight comes out to $6236.

Earl Reid guessed $6250. Actual total sale price: $6278. Earl gets the hat! PM or email me your address Earl.

Had I known it would have turned out this nice, and how much work it would take, the price would have been over $7500. You live, you learn. I'm very happy anyways.

[Keith Starosta]

The current average guessed price since I set your guesses straight comes out to $6236.

Earl Reid guessed $6250. Actual total sale price: $6278. Earl gets the hat! PM or email me your address Earl.

Had I known it would have turned out this nice, and how much work it would take, the price would have been over $7500. You live, you learn. I'm very happy anyways.

As you should be!! Very, very nice.

Keith