Rebuilding Powermatic 143 Bandsaw; need technical assistance

[Rich Riddle]

I totally dismantled a Powermatic 143 metal/wood bandsaw to rebuild it. Some woodworkers recommended changing the bearings when this is dismantled. I see bearings in both the Bearing Housing, Upper Wheel Shaft (part 143-431) and the bearing housing countershaft (part 143-500). I am trying to figure out how to remove the bearings on these two places. Does anyone have any experience doing this? The bearings inside the transmission seem well protected with lubricant, but it seems like a good time to order the others.

One last question. What is a good type of oil for the transmission in this bandsaw?

Thank you.

[Van Huskey]

I am going from memory and it has been a long time since I replaced bearings on a 141/143. I think the upper shaft has a retaining ring on the back of the shaft once it and the wheel are off you should be able to tap the bearings out from the opposite sides which the back of a cold chisel or the like. On the bottom bearing housing you should just be able to tap them out from the opposite side like you normally would with a wheel etc.

If this doesn't make sense and you don't get a better reply try PMing Carrol Courtney, he has rebuilt a couple of PM143s.

[Rich Riddle]

Van, I will try to chisel out the lower bearings in a few minutes. The lower bearings are attached to some type of arm, pictured in the links. Also, I was able to get some sort of C retaining clips off of the ends. Thank you for the information and the source.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/DSCN0446.jpg

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/DSCN0447-1.jpg
(http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/DSCN0447-1.jpg)
http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/riddlers_usmc/DSCN0448.jpg

I now need to get the bearings out.

[Van Huskey]

Again going on memory I think the shaft gets tapped out with the "keyed/pulley" side of the shaft going through the bearings. Obviously remove the key first. Once the shaft is out you can tap the bearings backs through the opposite sides just like an a BS wheel.

Sorry, I can' be 100% sure it has been several years since I did that. I have never owned a 143 only the wood cutting 141 version and its lower bearings are just in a solid bearing carrier with a through shaft not the pivot arm half shaft version.

[Rich Riddle]

Again going on memory I think the shaft gets tapped out with the "keyed/pulley" side of the shaft going through the bearings. Obviously remove the key first. Once the shaft is out you can tap the bearings backs through the opposite sides just like an a BS wheel.

Sorry, I can' be 100% sure it has been several years since I did that. I have never owned a 143 only the wood cutting 141 version and its lower bearings are just in a solid bearing carrier with a through shaft not the pivot arm half shaft version.

Van,

Your advice was spot-on perfect. Came out like a champ. Now I need to use my glasses and magnifying glass to determine which bearings to order. Thank you. Do you have any advice on what oil to put in the transmission?

[Van Huskey]

SAE30 non-detergent

Looking at some notes I have on bearing sizes I have used on BS in the past the top shaft bearings look like Fafnir 203NPPG 17mmx40mmx12mm and the bottom shaft bearings look like MRC 204SZZG 20mmx47mmx14mm if I read my chicken scratch right. Those lower bearings will have the little ring that you took off attached to them, make sure they have them I am not sure what they are called so if you don't get a MRC part number and use another "6204" bearing make sure it has the groove and ring. Each of these bearings should run from $7-$20 depending on the source, the 204s will be more expensive.

[Rich Riddle]

SAE30 non-detergent

Looking at some notes I have on bearing sizes I have used on BS in the past the top shaft bearings look like Fafnir 203NPPG 17mmx40mmx12mm and the bottom shaft bearings look like MRC 204SZZG 20mmx47mmx14mm if I read my chicken scratch right. Those lower bearings will have the little ring that you took off attached to them, make sure they have them I am not sure what they are called so if you don't get a MRC part number and use another "6204" bearing make sure it has the groove and ring. Each of these bearings should run from $7-$20 depending on the source, the 204s will be more expensive.

Van,

I just pulled those exact numbers off the bearings themselves. That most likely means the bearing are 46 years old on that saw. I am looking up sources for them now. I have ordered from bearings direct in the past but also need some bearings for a Jet jointer. Thank you for all your help.

[Van Huskey]

Van,

I just pulled those exact numbers off the bearings themselves. That most likely means the bearing are 46 years old on that saw. I am looking up sources for them now. I have ordered from bearings direct in the past but also need some bearings for a Jet jointer. Thank you for all your help.

No problem!

That is a great saw arguably the best 14" cast saw ever built a BIG leap up in design and construction over the Delta 14" saws, the bearing size alone tells a lot of that tale!

[Rich Riddle]

I found a cross-reference for the bearings that are considerably less, a total of $25 versus $100. Is there any big advantage to staying with the original equipment?

[Van Huskey]

I found a cross-reference for the bearings that are considerably less, a total of $25 versus $100. Is there any big advantage to staying with the original equipment?

I wouldn't worry about it at all. I think you can get the OEM versions for about $60 plus shipping but for $25 I would just get any that fit.