lou sansone
03-26-2005, 8:00 AM
Good morning fellow wood workers
This shop tour is going to take a look at some of the construction of the shop. Some of you are in the process of doing timber framing and I hope that you can use some of this information to your benefit.
1. The shop is about 38 x 28 with 10 foot walls. I designed the post and beam frame myself using examples of old barn and building framing that can be found in a few books that I have.
2. The frame was constructed out of red and white oak trees that I cut down on my brother's property ( with his permission of course ) and that we saw up
for the shop. I did have to buy a few timbers as well.
3. After bandmilling all of the timbers they were then all hand planed using a little makita power planer. If you don't do that the wood really has a very rough feeling to it.
4. All of the timber edges have been "beveled" with a "stop" at each joint. That beveling is also something that all the timbers in old mills had done to them. The idea is that the sharp corner of the timber was much more suceptable to catching on fire then the beveled edge would be.
5. All of the joints were cut using a combination of hand saws, power saws and chain saws ... and then cleaned up with a slick. Mortices were started with a big drill and then finished up with hammer and chisel. Most of the mortice and tennon joints are "haunched" so that the timber rests on the full width of the joist and the tennon is really there to prevent pulling the joint apart.
6. All joints were pegged, although I did cheat on this and did not using draw-boring ( intentional misalignment of the holes to force a tighter fit ). All pegs were rived with a froe.
7. The building is insulated by first covereing entire structure with ship lap random width hemlock that was planed and ship laped. I actually shiplapped every board with a router ( I think it took about 3000 - 4000 bd feet, of wood to side and roof the building, might be wrong on the exact number ... that was one of the most stupid things I did my hand... never again!! ). After the first layer of hemlock, the entire building is covered with black tar paper to seal it and help hide any gaps that develope in the interior siding. Insulation and then the final siding
8. The floor was a 6" concrete slab ( building has real 4 foot frost walls and a footing under the chimeny ) that had 10 mill poly under the slab. On top of the slab is another 10 mill poly. On top of that were 2x4 pt sleepers nailed to the cement. Much of my electrical conduit ( 1" emt ) runs throughout the floor sleeper grid so I do not have and wires on the floor. They pop up at predetermined intervals and become a floor junction box.
9. On top of the PT sleepers 3/4 " t/g plywood is screwed and nailed.
10. On top of that is another 3/4" t/g Hickory floor that is face nailed with cut nails into all the PT sleepers. Hickory is the hardest north american hardwood for flooring and is very durable. Makes a nice looking floor as well.
11. The shop has a 85000 btu hot air oil furnace specifically made for shops. works great, except that with woodworking dust I have to put filters on the inlet of the burner to prevent excessive carborization of wood dust around the nozzel.
thanks for taking time to look
lou
This shop tour is going to take a look at some of the construction of the shop. Some of you are in the process of doing timber framing and I hope that you can use some of this information to your benefit.
1. The shop is about 38 x 28 with 10 foot walls. I designed the post and beam frame myself using examples of old barn and building framing that can be found in a few books that I have.
2. The frame was constructed out of red and white oak trees that I cut down on my brother's property ( with his permission of course ) and that we saw up
for the shop. I did have to buy a few timbers as well.
3. After bandmilling all of the timbers they were then all hand planed using a little makita power planer. If you don't do that the wood really has a very rough feeling to it.
4. All of the timber edges have been "beveled" with a "stop" at each joint. That beveling is also something that all the timbers in old mills had done to them. The idea is that the sharp corner of the timber was much more suceptable to catching on fire then the beveled edge would be.
5. All of the joints were cut using a combination of hand saws, power saws and chain saws ... and then cleaned up with a slick. Mortices were started with a big drill and then finished up with hammer and chisel. Most of the mortice and tennon joints are "haunched" so that the timber rests on the full width of the joist and the tennon is really there to prevent pulling the joint apart.
6. All joints were pegged, although I did cheat on this and did not using draw-boring ( intentional misalignment of the holes to force a tighter fit ). All pegs were rived with a froe.
7. The building is insulated by first covereing entire structure with ship lap random width hemlock that was planed and ship laped. I actually shiplapped every board with a router ( I think it took about 3000 - 4000 bd feet, of wood to side and roof the building, might be wrong on the exact number ... that was one of the most stupid things I did my hand... never again!! ). After the first layer of hemlock, the entire building is covered with black tar paper to seal it and help hide any gaps that develope in the interior siding. Insulation and then the final siding
8. The floor was a 6" concrete slab ( building has real 4 foot frost walls and a footing under the chimeny ) that had 10 mill poly under the slab. On top of the slab is another 10 mill poly. On top of that were 2x4 pt sleepers nailed to the cement. Much of my electrical conduit ( 1" emt ) runs throughout the floor sleeper grid so I do not have and wires on the floor. They pop up at predetermined intervals and become a floor junction box.
9. On top of the PT sleepers 3/4 " t/g plywood is screwed and nailed.
10. On top of that is another 3/4" t/g Hickory floor that is face nailed with cut nails into all the PT sleepers. Hickory is the hardest north american hardwood for flooring and is very durable. Makes a nice looking floor as well.
11. The shop has a 85000 btu hot air oil furnace specifically made for shops. works great, except that with woodworking dust I have to put filters on the inlet of the burner to prevent excessive carborization of wood dust around the nozzel.
thanks for taking time to look
lou