ian maybury
03-25-2012, 6:08 PM
I posted before asking about your experience with Hammer/Felder type extension tables, and the work is under way to fit them on my Hammer machines.
The plan is to build the tables using top and bottom skins of 18mm phenolic birch ply sandwiched over strips of 24mm - with the phenolic milled off on the glue lines as the stuff doesn't stick very well. Side plates milled from 12mm bright steel flat strip will enable them to hook over DIY mounting bars along the lines of Hammer/Felder, and in the case of the short ones to cantilever off this. The longer ones will have an adjustable height support leg.
It'd be nice to be able to buy the Hammer units, but it quickly builds into a lot of money.
I'm wondering if any of you guys have mounted extension tables on what you know as an Agazzani B-24. (my saw is very similar - actually a UK spec NRA 600) The situation is complicated by the fact that I want to use exactly the same mounting format as on the Hammer machines so the extension tables are interchangeable. This places the bolts fixing the table mounting bars to the side face/flange of the table on a line 55mm below the top surface of the table. Unlike the Felder 600 band saw it (in one way luckily) does not come with mounting bars fitted.
The problem is that this locates them just below the lower edge of the side face of the table casting. Two questions follow:
1. Is there a proven method of doing this, or better still a mounting kit available? (long shot, just asking...)
2. How useful is an infeed table extension (there will be one on the outfeed as well) for ripping and re-sawing long material etc? (you don't often see them, but it sounds like one could be worthwhile to me)
I figure (1) can be done by bolting an 8x50mm (5/16in thick) steel strip bracket to the inside face of the table flange using a countersunk screw through the side of the table and the bracket.
A bend in the bracket will compensate for the relief angle on the casting to leave the face of the bracket vertical.
(2) is possible as well, but quite a bit more awkward since the mounting has to clear the stock fence locking assembly and knob.
Has anybody any views as to whether this is worthwhile, or on how it might be done?
Thanks
ian
PS Sorry - wrong section. maybe this can be moved to the general section.
The plan is to build the tables using top and bottom skins of 18mm phenolic birch ply sandwiched over strips of 24mm - with the phenolic milled off on the glue lines as the stuff doesn't stick very well. Side plates milled from 12mm bright steel flat strip will enable them to hook over DIY mounting bars along the lines of Hammer/Felder, and in the case of the short ones to cantilever off this. The longer ones will have an adjustable height support leg.
It'd be nice to be able to buy the Hammer units, but it quickly builds into a lot of money.
I'm wondering if any of you guys have mounted extension tables on what you know as an Agazzani B-24. (my saw is very similar - actually a UK spec NRA 600) The situation is complicated by the fact that I want to use exactly the same mounting format as on the Hammer machines so the extension tables are interchangeable. This places the bolts fixing the table mounting bars to the side face/flange of the table on a line 55mm below the top surface of the table. Unlike the Felder 600 band saw it (in one way luckily) does not come with mounting bars fitted.
The problem is that this locates them just below the lower edge of the side face of the table casting. Two questions follow:
1. Is there a proven method of doing this, or better still a mounting kit available? (long shot, just asking...)
2. How useful is an infeed table extension (there will be one on the outfeed as well) for ripping and re-sawing long material etc? (you don't often see them, but it sounds like one could be worthwhile to me)
I figure (1) can be done by bolting an 8x50mm (5/16in thick) steel strip bracket to the inside face of the table flange using a countersunk screw through the side of the table and the bracket.
A bend in the bracket will compensate for the relief angle on the casting to leave the face of the bracket vertical.
(2) is possible as well, but quite a bit more awkward since the mounting has to clear the stock fence locking assembly and knob.
Has anybody any views as to whether this is worthwhile, or on how it might be done?
Thanks
ian
PS Sorry - wrong section. maybe this can be moved to the general section.