ouch my aching back (handling melamine sheets solo)

[frank shic]

i'm finally in the home stretch for my bathroom vanities and i was cutting up some sheets of 5/8" melamine and i must admit i had seriously forgotten how heavy these things are! anyways, i was wondering if anyone knew the weighs respectively on 5/8" melamine, 3/4" ply, 3/4" melamine and mdf just for future reference if i decide to give my back another workout?

[Van Huskey]

Standard weight 3/4" MDF and 3/4" melamine weigh about the same, 90-95# 4X8, I think 5/8" is just over 80#. Ply obviously can vary depending on the structure but about 75# for 3/4" hardwood ply or baltic birch.

Edit: BTW light weight MDF is about 65# for 3/4" 4x8

[Victor Robinson]

Frank, I'm sure the XL could help out handling those large sheets. ;)

I got a workout moving drywall tonight. 1/2" sheets paired up are darn heavy, though not as bad as 3/4" MDF or melamine. I nearly threw my back out and I had a helper.

[Larry Edgerton]

When I had the cabinet shop for a brief period of time I tried competing with the factories. I bought 5x9 sheets in 3/4" and 1/2". I had a forklift and some decent setups but that stuff is just too heavy. Finished cabinets still had to be moved into place, and did I mention, that stuff is heavy!

I decided that building cabinets out of that stuff was not woodwork and if that was what it had come to I would rather do something else. Not sure I made the right choice, should have been an ice cream tester.

Larry

[Michael Mayo]

I recently had to get some sheets of 4 X 8 MDF 3/4" and man that stuff is HEAVY! I feel your pain believe me.

[Ron Natalie]

Yeah the 3/4" MDF is like 80 pounds (and awkward). The last bunch I bought at Lowe's I made them cut in half for me before I left the store.

A recent FWW (I think) has a need tilting plywood cart that I'm going to have to build.

[Edward A Miller]

I handle 3/4" Birch in both 4'X8' & 4'X10' sheets as well as 4'X8' sheets of Phenolic plastic on a regular basis so a while back I picked up a Gorilla Gripper to help move the sheets around. It allows you to lift with the legs rathar than the back. http://gorillagripper.com/

[frank shic]

i've got to try that lightweight MDF some day, van - thanks for the numbers! very funny victor, i believe the XL would have enabled me to... alright, you got me on that one! larry, i had a fleeting moment of insanity where i contemplated building the double sink vanity as a single unit and then i looked at all the stairs i'd have to somehow cart it up :( michael and ron what are you guys using mdf for? painted cabinet sides i assume? believe it or not i actually have one of those gorilla grippers but the problem is lifting it into horizontal position for the table saw. one of those lifting carts would help but there's just hardly any room in the garage - sure would be the way to go though!

[Mike Henderson]

The weight of that stuff is why I'm considering a track saw. When I go to buy it, I figure out how I can get them to break it down into two parts for me so I can handle it. But then I have to break it down further in my shop. Handing even half a sheet on my cabinet saw is difficult. One day I'll find what I want in a track saw.

Mike

[John Coloccia]

The weight of that stuff is why I'm considering a track saw. When I go to buy it, I figure out how I can get them to break it down into two parts for me so I can handle it. But then I have to break it down further in my shop. Handing even half a sheet on my cabinet saw is difficult. One day I'll find what I want in a track saw.

Mike

You know, you can often find panel saws used between $200 and $500. That would make quick work of breaking down sheets.

[Doug Colombo]

+1 for the Gorilla Gripper - it works great and is MUCH easier to carry full sheets of material.

[Mike Henderson]

You know, you can often find panel saws used between $200 and $500. That would make quick work of breaking down sheets.
I don't know if I have room for a panel saw but I'll keep an eye out for one. Thanks for the suggestion.

Mike

[Dave Zellers]

This thing looks interesting.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224PA/

[frank shic]

dave, don't waste your money on that. i already tried it and wound up ebaying it away!

[Dave Zellers]

Yeah, seems like it would only travel in a straight line.

I have a very simple handle that fits under the sheet and makes it very easy to carry.

[Steve knight]

3/4" mdf try 1.25" mdf if you want heavy. even with two people it is heavy.

[frank shic]

who invented that form of torture?!? must be over 100 pounds!

[Steve knight]

about 150 or so. I have a tilting top cart I built that works well if I have enough space cleared to get in in my shop. so usually I can move sheets around without lifting. but I can't even tilt one of those sheets up on my own.

[fRED mCnEILL]

I handle a LOT of 1/2 panels by myself on my tablesaw and I use a "panel lifter"(http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62580&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1) to get the panel up onto the saw. I mentioned it here a while ago, which some people poo-poed , but it works. I also have a gorilla gripper which really helps to handle big, heavy sheets.

[Steve knight]

+1 for the Gorilla Gripper - it works great and is MUCH easier to carry full sheets of material.

I tried one it was pain as I had to go around a corner then flip the sheet up on my machine. but even then it's kind of hard to get the sheet on the table. with a sheet of 3/4" mdf I don't know if I could do it with it.

[Dan Rude]

Just got done doing this with 1/2" drywall, I use both the gorilla lifter and the Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32088&cat=1,43456,43389 Panel tote. It has an longer handle than the plastic ones you see, My basement is only 7' ceilings and the stairway is plaster at an angle so the panel tote gets me down the stairs. I use one or the other to move the panels to cut on my cutting table. If you have a helper J-handles are great. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10480&site=ROCKLER

[Leo Graywacz]

Being a one man shop I handle the sheet goods all the time. I try to get them fork lifted off the truck, if not the driver helps. I stack them on a set of 2x4s that I made to hold them off the ground. When I need one I will slide it off the pile and tilt it up so it is on an 8' edge and drag it over to the TS. Then I will let it flop to its flat position but holding the 4' edge up in the air. I have a good technique. Then I only need to move it a foot or so to get that 4' edge rested on the tablesaw. Then I pick up the backside of the sheet and push it through the saw. Not a lot of heavy lifting involved, most of the weight stays on the floor.

I also do the same thing while dragging the 4' edge on the ground, I know where to stop so I can lean the plywood so it lands at the beginning of the TS.

All the plywood and MDF is oversized these days so scratching up the edge a bit makes little difference.

[Rich Engelhardt]

All the plywood and MDF is oversized these days so scratching up the edge a bit makes little difference
Menards didn't get the oversized memo I guess.
Either that or they misunderstood it and got over and under mixed up.

I bought 3 sheets of their cheap 3/4" red oak that was under 4'x8' by a couple inches.

[Jim Foster]

+1 on the panel tote. The panel tote is a life saver and at $20 or less a really great tool to have on hand. I don't work with panels a lot, but when I do, I tend to have to break down a bunch and this makes it a lot easier.

[QUOTE=Dan Rude;1901034]Just got done doing this with 1/2" drywall, I use both the gorilla lifter and the Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32088&cat=1,43456,43389 Panel tote. It has an longer handle than the plastic ones you see,

[Carl Beckett]

+1 on panel tote.

Its not that useful for wrestling a full sheet up onto a cabinet saw, but for just moving from point A to point B its helpful to stand upright and lift with the legs more (not perfect, but a relative improvement)

[frank shic]

my problem is that since i have to crosscut the sheet, i have to get it up on the saw horizontally. i figured out the best method so far is to just have a support table next to the saw that i can drag it over. i should just get swallow my pride and just cut the sheet down with a track saw first...

[Leo Graywacz]

Menards didn't get the oversized memo I guess.
Either that or they misunderstood it and got over and under mixed up.

I bought 3 sheets of their cheap 3/4" red oak that was under 4'x8' by a couple inches.

98% of my plywood comes in at 48 1/2" x 96 1/2" and my particleboard and MDF products come in at 49 x 97. On occasion I still get the 4 x 8 sheet.

[Jeff Duncan]

The worst I've used was a custom layup of 1-1/4" mdf for a job. No forklift so had to hand unload the delivery truck, the first sheet of mdf must have been about 8' off the ground! Was only about 12 sheets but it was a month before my shoulder felt right again:(

JeffD

[frank shic]

i've often wondered how many cabinetmakers end up with chronic shoulder problems eventually forcing them into retirement or corrective surgery!

[Leo Graywacz]

I have chronic shoulder problem on my right side. Has nothing to do with lifting and everything to do with random orbit sanding for 20 years.

[Dave Zellers]

the Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32088&cat=1,43456,43389 Panel tote.

That's it! That's what I have- I couldn't remember the name. It's worth every penny.

So +3 for the Panel Tote!

[ray hampton]

That's it! That's what I have- I couldn't remember the name. It's worth every penny.

So +3 for the Panel Tote!

the panel tote may be worth every cent BUT ONLY if it is placed in the center so that the weight is equal, not the way that is is show
making your own panel hod carry is easy

[frank shic]

I have chronic shoulder problem on my right side. Has nothing to do with lifting and everything to do with random orbit sanding for 20 years.

must've been pre-mirka :(

[Leo Graywacz]

Doesn't matter that much, it is repetitive motion damage. Sanding is the bane of my existence. Even if I had the mirka, the same motions are required.

My first sanders were all air dynabrades, since I worked in many wood shops before I became self employed. After that I used mostly the same style DeWalt RO sander for many many years.

It's just the same motion time and time again. I do switch hands often but primarily it is a right handed activity for me.

[Sam Murdoch]

The weight of that stuff is why I'm considering a track saw. When I go to buy it, I figure out how I can get them to break it down into two parts for me so I can handle it. But then I have to break it down further in my shop. Handing even half a sheet on my cabinet saw is difficult. One day I'll find what I want in a track saw.

Mike


Yes indeed! When I parts out a kitchen these days, I stack 6 or 7 sheets on my table, track saw to size, maybe take the reduced parts to the T saw for consistent and fast rips, but otherwise DO NOT HANDLE full sheets except to bring them into the shop and as I add 7 more sheets to my work table. And, when I bring the stock into the shop the very nice delivery folks always help me put the stuff just where I need it. What a relief :D. I do have an 1-1/2" thick sheet of MDF that I will need to lift onto the table soon. Not looking forward to that, but at least once it's up it will come back off in pieces.
The track saw has changed my work life - all for the better.

[Chris Tsutsui]

Once you hurt your lower back, things are never the same...

I don't care if I look like a pansy asking for help at the stores for loading sheet goods... The less I use my back, the longer it should last. :)