3 Tool Handles from a Sycamore branch

[Brian Kent]

I found a 16" branch in the sycamore pile.

I tried splitting it to get good grain direction. I put the hatchet on top and hit it with another branch, and eventually split off 3 good pieces.

I turned the narrower handle first. It ranges from 1-1/8 to 1-3/4" diameter.

The second and third are much bigger at the base of the handle, going from 1-7/8 to 1-3/8 to almost 2" at the bulb. The diameter measurements are almost identical but I did not try to measure or copy anything. :confused: #2 wasn't in the same room when I turned #3. It just felt right in the hand.

I expect the Thompson 1/2" V Bowl Gouge and the 3/8" Spindle Gouge that I made these for by this weekend.

Thanks for looking and critiquing.

Brian

ps. In spite of the photography, these are all the same length. Also, they are not dirty. Those are the colors of the wood. It is sort of like a random grey-blue stain mixed in.

[John Keeton]

Looks like you did well with this project, Brian! What is the ID of the ferrule for the 1/2" gouge?

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Bryan, the next time I need a handle or two I may be calling you. Gooood lookin'. Max

[Brian Kent]

Looks like you did well with this project, Brian! What is the ID of the ferrule for the 1/2" gouge?

I used a 1/2" brass couple nut and filed it smooth.

[John Keeton]

Brian, I am confused a bit. One normally wants 1/4" of wood between the tool and ferrule, so an ID of 1" (or close to that) would be desirable for a 1/2" tool. Like I said, I could just not be understanding what you have.

[Jamie Donaldson]

Brian, I share John's concern about the small size of your ferrules, and in addition wouldn't consider sycamore strong and dense enough for sturdy handles for larger tools. You should reconsider the applications for these handles, and at least enlarge the ferrules as it appears that you have sufficient wood remaining to move the larger ferrules back into the handle shape. BTW, I use aluminum tubing for my ferrules because it's available in a wide range of sizes, and the polished silver color coordinates with most of the fitted tools, except the Thompsons! In photography black was considered the color for "pro" equipment, and the gun metal finish of Thompson tools suits me just fine, without any extra cost.

[Brian Kent]

John and Jamie, (and anyone else), this is all new info to me, so tell me what the best thing is for my Thompson Tool handles. I just figured out that ID probably means "inside diameter", huh. My choice of 1/2" brass coupling nut was Whatever was in my drawer of stuff. My choice of Sycamore is because that is what is in the woodpile in the backyard.

I can use what I made with a bunch of tools I picked up at San Diego Wood Turners - 5 used tools with no handles for $25.

So…
1) What is the ideal size and source of ferrule for the 1/2" bowl gouge and the 3/8" detail gouge (the one I thought was a spindle gouge)?
2) What is the ideal wood for these? I may have a chance to get to my favorite lumber yard Friday afternoon or Saturday morning.
3) What is the straightest way to drill the tool hole?

Thanks

[Jamie Donaldson]

John correctly mentioned a 1/4" wood thickness around the tool steel as a good basis for strength, so the ferrule should allow ID diameter of the tool and +1/2" for wood, and as mentioned earlier, I use several sizes of aluminum tube for ferrules. Most commercially made handles are hardwoods, like Sorby's are ash. I have made many of my handles from walnut, because I have a stash and the dark wood doesn't show how dirty my hands sometimes become. To drill, I mount a Morse taper drill chuck in my lathe headstock spindle, punch an index center mark in the handle end to be drilled, line the handle butt end up with the tailstock, and push the handle onto the drill bit which is spinning at a reasonably slow speed. That keeps the hole straight, and all handles don't need to be same size, but larger gouge handles should be long and strong, as I tend to get rough with them on occasion and need some leverage! Some handles I turn shorter and the butt end on 2 axis, so the oval handle acts as a reference, especially helpfull for rolling cuts with spindle and detail gouges.

[John Keeton]

Brian, you might want to check out this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?164807-A-handle-for-the-HOG-a-short-tutorial) in which I made a shot filled handle for one of my gouges. You can ignore the "shot filled" portions for your purpose. For a ferrule, just add 1/2" to the size of the tool shaft. That will give you 1/4" of wood around the tool.

[Prashun Patel]

Brian-

If you still had the tenon on these handles and you could cut a new wider tenon, then maybe I'd agree with the JK and Jamie (two experts relative to me), but...

If it were me, I would use these tool handles as they are. If you are like me, you will learn a lot about what tool length, weight, diameter, and feel is right for you after you use a few tools. I think these will make great initial users.

FWIW, both of my Thompson b-gouges (1/2 and 5/8) are suboptimally designed by the standards here, and I count them as temporary, but they've held up just fine.

[Brian Kent]

Updates:
The ferrule ID is 3/4", not 1/2" The hole in the end is 1/2".
I picked up 1" & 3/4" ID copper tubing for future ferrules.
I started my next handle out of 1-1/2" padauk.
Ordered a Jacob's Church for the lathe.