will a Laguna LT14 SUV bandsaw properly tention a 1" Resaw King blade

[Curtis Myers]

I'm in the process of ordering a Laguna LT14 SUV bandsaw with a 1" Resaw King blade.
I currently have a Powermatic 14" bandsaw which advertizes (like most other cast 14" bandsaws) as handling a 3/4" blade. In my humble experance the max width blade I have been able to properly keep tentioned is a 1/2".
My question to those who have the SUV bandsaw does the Laguna LT14 SUV properly tention a 1" Resaw King blades?

[Bill Bukovec]

If you call Laguna, I'm sure they will be happy to help you out.

They have been eager to help me with any question I had.

Bill

[David Kumm]

Although the SUV is a hearvier machine you are running at it's max with a 1" blade. I would ask them what real improvement you will see over a 3/4" which would be as wide as I would go. A lttle narrower blade that is strung a little tighter will give better results. i don't believe you will see any difference in quality and the ability to tension it a little more is way more important. Dave

[Paul McGaha]

Welcome to Sawmill Creek Curtis.

PHM

[Curtis Myers]

If you call Laguna, I'm sure they will be happy to help you out.

They have been eager to help me with any question I had.

Bill

I did call Tim at Laguna. The only thing I know about Tim is that he is a salesman. He said the LT14 SUV will tention a 1" blade. What I think I do know is that the typical cast bandsaw claim they can tention 3/4" blades but common practice is to use 1/2" blades. I'm trying to find out what is real in the real world.
I'm not trying to say anything bad about Tim or Laguna. I do not know him.

[Brian Loran]

I have the LT14SUV and 1" resaw king and it works great. I have had no problems with tentioning it and getting great resaw cuts.

Only problem I have is folding and unfolding the blade without chipping a couple carbide teeth off :( Be very careful!

[Bill White]

Want a smart a$$ed reply?? My (our) car will run 130 mph. Ain't no way I'm drivin' that fast.
I use a 1/2" Woodslicer with great results. Don't get carried away with potential capacity.
Bill

[Van Huskey]

I am one that likes a wide resaw blade, the wider the better BUT only up to the ability of a particular saw to PROPERLY tension the given blade.

Two things are important about the 1" RK blade. It is a carbide tipped blade so likes tension between 25,000 and 30,000 PSI. It is also made on a fairly thin gauge backer (.024") which requires less absolute pressure to obtain the proper tension than a more standard .03+ inch gauge.

The bottom line it is a very well built 14" saw BUT I would stick to the 3/4" RK and tension it right at 1" on the saws scale.

[Curtis Myers]

Want a smart a$$ed reply?? My (our) car will run 130 mph. Ain't no way I'm drivin' that fast.
I use a 1/2" Woodslicer with great results. Don't get carried away with potential capacity.
Bill

I think your looking at it from a different prespective (not a smart a$$). I also have been using a 1/2" Woodslicer. Howerever looking to step up to the cut quality of a carbon tipped blade.
Just trying to do my homework. I'm in the process of purchasing the LT14SUV and want to get the widest carbon tipped blade that the saw can handle. If I need to use something thinner then 1" I will. This is what I'm trying to determine. Simply requesting those with a LT14SUV for their real world experiance.

[Van Huskey]

You have to be careful with anecdotal answers. There are a lot of people here that use a 3/4" RK on 14" cast clone saws and get good results. The question is would they get better results were they using a 1/2" RK (if they made such an animal) would they actually get better results. Lets assume the 1" capacity of a saw is rated for a carbon blade that requires 16,000psi it would not be able to properly tension a carbide tipped 1" blade but do fine with a carbon blade. The bottom line is without some experimentation you can't be sure, the safe bet is a 3/4" RK tension near the max the saw will allow and realize that the extra 1/4" even if fully tension would produce a very minor increase in quality, if you are looking to reliably produce that Nth degree of quality you need to be looking at a feeder, hand feeding is going to produce finish issues far greater than the "loss" of 1/4" in width on your resaw blade.

[James Baker SD]

for the bandsaw experts out there, I take it that the tension scale on the saw is an approximation at best, and to really measure the tension (to see what your saw is capable of) you need something like the Starrett tension gauge? Thanks.

[Myk Rian]

for the bandsaw experts out there, I take it that the tension scale on the saw is an approximation at best, and to really measure the tension (to see what your saw is capable of) you need something like the Starrett tension gauge? Thanks.
That is correct. A difference in length of a blade will throw the scale reading off. I never look at it, but use the good ole' flutter method.
By the way, I believe the max for any 14" saw is a 1/2" blade. I don't care what any brochures or salesmen say.

[David Kumm]

That is correct. A difference in length of a blade will throw the scale reading off. I never look at it, but use the good ole' flutter method.
By the way, I believe the max for any 14" saw is a 1/2" blade. I don't care what any brochures or salesmen say.

For most scales it is not the length but rather the thickness of the blade that throws it off. Each scale is calibrated for a certain thickness band. You need to find out what it is for even a rough reference. I'm a Starrett guy but everyone has their own method. I have several saws that all have their own sweet spot and the gauge gives me the best repeatibility. Dave

[Van Huskey]

For most scales it is not the length but rather the thickness of the blade that throws it off. Each scale is calibrated for a certain thickness band. You need to find out what it is for even a rough reference. I'm a Starrett guy but everyone has their own method. I have several saws that all have their own sweet spot and the gauge gives me the best repeatibility. Dave

100% agree, the key is the cross section of the band. Anyone (Duginski included) that says reply mainly on the scale is just wrong. The difference between the pressure needed to reach proper tension on a 1/2" .025" carbon blade and a 1/2" .032" carbide blade is HUGE it take more than double the pressure to get the proper tension. I measure the strain with a caliper but any decent method that measures strain directly is fine. It is a shame that bandsaws don't come equipped with a load cell and a conversion chart.

I disagree with Myk on the 1/2" max on all 14" bandsaws there are a significant number that are fine with a 3/4" blade, the SUV is one of the steel spined saws that are fine with it and the PM 141/143 is an example of a cast saw that has no issues with a 3/4" blade.

In the end the real way to do this is put the 1" blade on, tension it to proper tension (assuming the spring will allow that) and measure the deflection of the saw. That then begs the question what is acceptable deflection and what is not... This requires and investment of time and money beyond what most would care to do.

[harold bowlin]

I have the 14 SUV and a 1" Resaw King. My experience is very limited since I have only had it for about a week now, but up until now the RK is the only blade I have been playing with. I have been able to cut 1/32 thick veneers from 6" oak to within 1/1000" difference from front to back. I have a 5/8, 1/2, and 1/4" blade that I have not run yet so they may do as well. I have just been having too much fun with the 1" RK. Hope this helps you.

[David Kumm]

I have the 14 SUV and a 1" Resaw King. My experience is very limited since I have only had it for about a week now, but up until now the RK is the only blade I have been playing with. I have been able to cut 1/32 thick veneers from 6" oak to within 1/1000" difference from front to back. I have a 5/8, 1/2, and 1/4" blade that I have not run yet so they may do as well. I have just been having too much fun with the 1" RK. Hope this helps you.

Harold, that is really good. Give a 12" board a try and let us know as any tension problem will increase exponentially with depth of cut. If you can do 12" oak or maple you are golden. As to frame deflection, if your saw seems to suddenly become difficult to track the blade on the wheel and is inconsistent as to where it sits on the wheel you may have deflection. As the blade travels at speed it will wander if the frame is flexing even slightly. Dave