Ease of use comparison, seeking Jointer advice

[Craig Behnke]

Given my budget and basic hobby needs, i'm looking at getting a 6 inch jointer. I'd like to know the ease of blade change, ease of set up, adjusting, etc for a Delta 37-195 and a Powematic 54A.

Does either one have a distinct advantage over the other in terms of ease of use, changing and setting knives, ease of adjustment, etc. etc.

Both are in very good condition, so no work is needed to get them into working order. I don't know the exact age of each but they aren't 15+ years old, they are relatively young as far as large iron tools go.

Any input appreciated. Thanks.

[Prashun Patel]

This ain't what you asked, but you should really look at the Ridgid. You said 'budget' and 'basic hobby' needs. That's me. The Ridgid is a solid 6" jointer and has served me well for about 3 years; have not changed blades yet...

[Craig Behnke]

Thanks for the answer,...yes, I am looking at a Ridgid also in my comparison, but I have access to someone with one of those so I already have advice/info about changing blades on that jointer.

Good catch though, if I miss a brand or model I always want to hear about it so I can keep my options open.

[frank shic]

have you considered the 10" jet jointer/planer? it takes some work getting the outfeed level but after that imagine what you can mill!

[Craig Behnke]

thanks for the response Frank. yes, I have thought about that unit. what concerned me, and correct me if this is inaccurate, is that combination tools, in general, are a bit of a compromise...they do 2 things well, but not as good as task specific machines. From experience, I've found that I prefer to buy single task machines and getting a high quality, albeit used, tool.

Also, it's a matter of used availability in my area. At a max $500 budget, I have a wide range of used, high quality 6 inch planers in my area (central Vermont), but not a wide range of jointer/planer combo machines.

[frank shic]

when it goes down to $425 again, i'm getting one not because i need a planer but because i want to replace my 6" ridgid jointer because on my current project, my lumber yard only stocked poplar boards that were at least 7" wide!

[Dave Cav]

Given my budget and basic hobby needs, i'm looking at getting a 6 inch jointer. I'd like to know the ease of blade change, ease of set up, adjusting, etc for a Delta 37-195 and a Powematic 54A.

.

Take a close look at the head. The older Powermatic jointers had jack screws that you use to raise and lower the knives during final adjustment. This is quite a bit easier than using an ice pick or other tool to pry the knives up and down. I don't remember if Delta used jack screws, but I think not. Otherwise, they are probably a wash, although I prefer the Powermatic fence system. And, even with jack screws setting the knives is a fiddly process.

[Myk Rian]

I had a Jet 6". Nice machine, and it wasn't hard to change the knives. Fit and finish beat the Grizzly G1018 8" I had all to heck.
A piece of glass with super magnets makes any jointer knife change easier.
The Jets regularly go for about $300 used.
I'm now using a 1930s Wallace 8" I found for $75, and put a hundred or so into restoring it.

[frank shic]

consider getting a jointer pal to help realign the knives when you replace them.

[Rod Sheridan]

thanks for the response Frank. yes, I have thought about that unit. what concerned me, and correct me if this is inaccurate, is that combination tools, in general, are a bit of a compromise...they do 2 things well, but not as good as task specific machines. From experience, I've found that I prefer to buy single task machines and getting a high quality, albeit used, tool.

Also, it's a matter of used availability in my area. At a max $500 budget, I have a wide range of used, high quality 6 inch planers in my area (central Vermont), but not a wide range of jointer/planer combo machines.

Hi Craig, many combination machines are much better than most separate machines, however certainly not in the $500 range. In the range with an extra zero, you can have machines with self setting knives.

Used is your best bet in the price range you are looking for, check the usual used machine places.............Rod.

[Adrian Anguiano]

honestly all jointers are a PIA to set the knives if you want it to a tight tolerance. The Oneway gauge makes that possible; but its still a pain staking process.

Whether you get a jointer that rides on dovetail slides or one with parralelogram beds they will still need tweaking. One with shims, or one with a wrench.

[Jim Andrew]

When I got my Grizzly, assumed it would need adjusting to get it to joint right, but it was exactly right as delivered. I got the helical head, not only because it needs little maintenance, and joints better, but because it is so easy to replace cutters in. No adjustment, just screw in a new one. The older I get, the harder I find it to do maintenance on things like 3 blade cutterheads.

[Bruce Wrenn]

when it goes down to $425 again, i'm getting one not because i need a planer but because i want to replace my 6" ridgid jointer because on my current project, my lumber yard only stocked poplar boards that were at least 7" wide!Read current issue of Wood Magazine (page 62.)

[Doug Colombo]

I agree with Prashun - I have had the same experence with my Ridgid 6" jointer - very solid machine.

[Ed Edwards]

Myk Ryan,
I'm geeting ready to replace the knives in my 8" Delta. Could you elaberate on using the glass and magnets??

Thanks, Ed

[Guy Belleman]

After messing with a Delta 6" 37-195 jointer for years, when I finally got a Grizzly 8" with spiral/helical head, I was amazed at the ease to set up and the wonderful product. Adjusting/shimming the table dovetail slides, setting the blades, and adjusting the fence on the 6" was a pain. Yes, I used all of the tools to make it easy, it was still a pain. The Grizzly was perfect right out the box and required very little adjustment.

[Myk Rian]

Myk Ryan,
I'm geeting ready to replace the knives in my 8" Delta. Could you elaberate on using the glass and magnets??

Thanks, Ed
I haven't used the method, but super glue some magnets to the top of the glass. 2 or 3 to hold the knife, and a few to hold the glass to the table.
I use a straight edge to set my knives. I'll rotate the head slightly while adjusting the knives to get 1/8" movement of the straight edge. Then I adjust the outfeed table even with the knife edge.

[Matt Roth]

If 500 is your budget, you're in the ballpark of an a used 8" jointer.

[Craig Behnke]

If 500 is your budget, you're in the ballpark of an a used 8" jointer.

yeah, i've seen a few out there. an interesting one i found is an early 1970's Rockwell Delta in good working order. It's listed about $700 but the blades need sharpening and I could always stretch to perhaps $600 if it's a phenomenal deal. I would have to do extra due diligence because I don't need a restoration project,...I want to crank out projects ASAP.

When I measure that against a 2004 PM 54A in pristine shape for about $500 and a 10 year old Delta 37-195 in great shape for about $375...it's a tough call.

[Sam Murdoch]

Given my budget and basic hobby needs, i'm looking at getting a 6 inch jointer. I'd like to know the ease of blade change, ease of set up, adjusting, etc for a Delta 37-195 and a Powematic 54A.

Does either one have a distinct advantage over the other in terms of ease of use, changing and setting knives, ease of adjustment, etc. etc.

Both are in very good condition, so no work is needed to get them into working order. I don't know the exact age of each but they aren't 15+ years old, they are relatively young as far as large iron tools go.

Any input appreciated. Thanks.

I have a relatively new Powermatic 54 A - about 3 years old. I think it is a very fine jointer (although only a 6" bed :(). I believe that it has the longest bed of the 6" jointers and that is very very useful. The knives are double sided and change out quickly and accurately. Dust collection is good and the set up of the new machine was pretty much out of the box and go to work. I am a very satisfied user.

[tom gepfrich]

Get the longest and widest bed you have room for. I got rid of a 6 in craftsman becuase it added no value to the shop. 3 yrs later I picked up an 8 in jet. The jets bed is 1.5 times the length of the Craftsman and the extra 2 inches allows 95% of the stock I use to go through. The stock comes out perfectly flat and the edges are beautiful. I now use it every time I process stock. I join one face and edge flat . I then plane the other face and I have perfectly flat stock ready to rip to final size. My days of coaxing warped, twisted wood into shape with clamps is OVER!!!!

[Matt Roth]

yeah, i've seen a few out there. an interesting one i found is an early 1970's Rockwell Delta in good working order. It's listed about $700 but the blades need sharpening and I could always stretch to perhaps $600 if it's a phenomenal deal. I would have to do extra due diligence because I don't need a restoration project,...I want to crank out projects ASAP.

When I measure that against a 2004 PM 54A in pristine shape for about $500 and a 10 year old Delta 37-195 in great shape for about $375...it's a tough call.

I found a Powermatic 60 on CL with a pair of shop made 8' tables on each end for 500. All it needed was plugged in. Just be patient...there are good deals out there for a guy with your budget!

[Craig Behnke]

My days of coaxing warped, twisted wood into shape with clamps is OVER!!!!

YES! that's what i'm searching for....I make wooden geared clocks and in order for the gears to run without binding (and the clock stopping), they need to be aligned in a darn-near perfectly straight frame.

I want to spend less time having to adjust an out of true frame so the gears didn't bind up and more time making more detailed and beautiful clocks.

Here is a pic of my latest clock.227834

[tom gepfrich]

IMHO a big part of you satisfaction will be the size of your rough cut stock. The jump from 6 to 8 inch is a considerable jump in price, and capability. For me anything wider would have been overkill. I resisted the 220 urge and finally bit the bullet and ran a 220v circuit. My 8 inch jet I found used for $600 runs like new and is a very well finished machine. I do plan to upgrade to a helical head but for now it is running so nice, I can't justify the expense.

Your clock looks amazing and I can see how warped boards are your enemy. I also wanted to add, read up on Jointer safety. They have a well earned reputation as being one of the shop's most dangerous tools.

[Carl Beckett]

Awesome clock Craig!

I have a clock on my 'todo' list, and have even collected some plans. Do you design these from scratch?

Would love to read a post on the process......

(btw - I recently sold a Grizzly 8" jointer in perfect shape for $450. I think you can find others for this price range.)

[Matt Roth]

Yes, I would also love to hear more about how you make those clocks!

[Craig Behnke]

There are many great websites to start at, here are some that I used to get going. Most of them have pages of additional wood clock and clock related links.

http://lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/Claytonsite1.htm

http://www.woodenclocks.co.uk/

http://garysclocks.sawdustcorner.com/

http://www.wooden-gear-clocks.com/serpentineclock.htm

[Larry Edgerton]

One of my absolutes with my next jointer is that it has a lever instead of a wheel. I have both, and the lever is it for the kind of work I do. I waste less wood, and less time with a lever. Its just so fast to change that you can set it for every cut.

Larry

[Adrian Anguiano]

Lever makes no difference to me. I set the jointer so it takes just a sliver off each pass and it never moves from there. I'd rather do more passes and have it more accurate and a smoother cut.

[Larry Edgerton]

Lever makes no difference to me. I set the jointer so it takes just a sliver off each pass and it never moves from there. I'd rather do more passes and have it more accurate and a smoother cut.

Really? That tells me that you are not trying to make a living at woodworking. I dont have the time or the energy, nor the inclination, to stand at a jointer all day making silly little passes when one or two will do.

And a jointer is no more or less accurate no matter what the cut is.

Larry

[Adrian Anguiano]

Well of course I'm not making a living as a woodworker. If so I wouldn't be using a jointer to true up an edge. I'd be using a straight line rip saw, or I'd buy it from the lumberyard straight line ripped. The only commercial people that I know use jointers when flattening a 12" wide board on large jointer. Never for straight edge.

Even I would use my table saw straight line jig if time was an issue. Since I'm not batching stuff out, then it's nice to be able to go from table saw to jointer without jigs or setup since im not mass producing anything.

[Adrian Anguiano]

The OP is a "basic hobbyist" as he said so I don't expect him doing huge batches or that more time in the shop is a negative thing since its not for putting bread on the table. It's for having fun.

[Sam Murdoch]

Well of course I'm not making a living as a woodworker. If so I wouldn't be using a jointer to true up an edge. I'd be using a straight line rip saw, or I'd buy it from the lumberyard straight line ripped. The only commercial people that I know use jointers when flattening a 12" wide board on large jointer. Never for straight edge.

Even I would use my table saw straight line jig if time was an issue. Since I'm not batching stuff out, then it's nice to be able to go from table saw to jointer without jigs or setup since im not mass producing anything.

Lots of generalizations here that don't necessarily stand up to real world experience - just sayin'.

[Alan Lightstone]

Hi Craig, many combination machines are much better than most separate machines, however certainly not in the $500 range.
I agree. I don't consider my combination machine to do either task in an inferior fashion to stand alone machines at all. The compromise is in the time/effort/annoyance for the changeover between tasks.