Is this a Disston #12?

[Jacob Nothstine]

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Pick this saw up at an estate sale with 3 other saws. The saw has no madallions and the etching all I can read is London Ree. It's 25" and 9tpI Crosscut. I took the handle off and it had a X on the top corner.

It's the third saw down.

Oh the other three saws a Disston D-8, Simonds No.37 and 2 Warranted I payed $4.00 each and $10.00 for a #7 hand Plane
Was a good day.

[David Weaver]

Yes.

booger that the one nut is missing, you don't find those raised nuts in every flea market lot.

[Jacob Nothstine]

Thank you
I could not match the handle leaf pattern with any other disston 12 I have seen on line.

[Chris Vandiver]

That is an oldie. You may be able to find a matching nut for it, if you're willing to search. Your saw could be quite valuable with a proper restoration(maybe without). Definitely worth looking into.

[David Weaver]

I missed the price you paid. The NUTS are worth WAY more than $4. You did well.

I don't usually like wheat on a handle at all (despite having 3 12s and a couple of other saws with it), but that wheat is very nicely done.

[george wilson]

The wheat could have been owner added.I'd have to go and get a #12 for comparison,but just offhand, I THINK there is some difference in the curves of your handle vs, a #12.

London ree? Are you sure it isn't a part of London spring steel?

[Lowell Smith]

This is a wonderful resource for these saws -

http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/12page.html

[David Weaver]

The cheeks look to me like the cheeks on a newer #12, but the wheat is definitely the old old disston wheat. The newer wheat is more blunt and moving toward WWII it was horrific looking gouges.

Might the etch say "refined"?

[Chris Vandiver]

The early Disston #12 handles were different then the later handles, as far as the wheat carving was concerned. Here is a link to some very good information on the subject; http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/12page.html

Scrool down the page and presto, there is the OP's handle.

[george wilson]

You have done good work,Chris.

[Jim Koepke]

$10.00 for a #7 hand Plane
Was a good day.

That is a good day.

Great finds.

jtk

[Paul Saffold]

There is a 16" #12 on the bay ending in 23hrs. Already at $30 and the serious bidders probably won't show up until the final seconds. I believe it is 1896-1917 and not nearly as nice as yours, Jacob.

[Don Jarvie]

What make was the #7?

[Jacob Nothstine]

I almost did not get this one, but the blade was straight and I liked the handle.

I have been to the Disston web page a lot comparing saw handles. I take it they were all done by hand so each might be a little different.

Is the #12 more of a collectors saw or users saw?

My next step is to give it a electrolytic bath, but I have to fine a larger bucket. I dipped the end Warranted saw but only could do half at a time, came out great but I can see a line from the water.

Paul - I have it on my watch list

[David Weaver]

I'd call it a user saw, but it's up to you. If it had a bright plate and almost no sign of use, and a totally intact handle (i.e,. the top horn was clean and the rest of the handle was very clean with only dark patina), you would set it aside without question.

Most collectors like condition, and one of them that old with a bright plate is extremely rare. There are probably 100 like you have for every one with a clean plate.

If it's straight and the pitting isn't bad (bad pitting around the toothline on a crosscut saw is a death sentence if you're looking to make it a nice performing saw), then by all means, I'd at least do a basic clean up on it and use it. If someone offers you an absurd amount for it for no good reason, then take them up on it.

Don't put the #12 in an electrolytic bath or use any chemical rust neturalizers on it.

[Jacob Nothstine]

David,
I'm new to electrolytic just started using it, but why not use it on the saw?
What about wd-40 and 400 grid sand paper?

[Chris Vandiver]

David,
I'm new to electrolytic just started using it, but why not use it on the saw?
What about wd-40 and 400 grid sand paper?

Any chemical bath will dull the saw plate beyond bringing it back to a smooth and slick surface. If you use an electrolytic bath, you will essentially ruin the plate. It will be rust free but it will leave a dull surface that you won't be able to restore to a slick surface. Your saw, just as it is, is worth way more than you paid for it. The pluses for your saw include; straight plate, vintage, saw bolts, high tooth count(9ppi?) and rarity. Minuses include; stained plate(it may brighten up substantially during restoration)damaged top horn on handle(can be carefully restored)1 missing saw bolt(easily replaced)and a less than 100% etch(much more may appear during the blade restoration). If that saw was in good restored condition, even with a stained blade, it might command several hundred dollars, maybe much more. At the very least it will probably make a very good user saw.

Here is a link to a great site with very good info on restoring your saw; http://home.grics.net/~weir/saw_restoration.html

[David Weaver]

David,
I'm new to electrolytic just started using it, but why not use it on the saw?
What about wd-40 and 400 grid sand paper?


That would be fine. get a razor blade to scrape rust if there is any that has any notable 3d virtues, if you know what I mean (like flaking rust or rust that sticks up off the plate).

I usually follow the scrape with 220 paper and then 100 paper, silicon carbide wet and dry, and WD40. With discretion, you can still have a plate that doesn't look too new, and keep your etch if you use a hardwood block or some sort of firm block to back the paper. You don't want to use something soft.

What chris said about the rust removal, chemical and electrolytic rust removal is for junk tools or user tools that will never have collector or original value. It makes a very tacky looking result and the longer you look at tools, the uglier it will look to you. I still use it on stuff that's too far gone to ever be for collectors, but I've never resorted to it on a saw.

[Jacob Nothstine]

Chris, David
Thanks for your advice about electrolytic.

[george wilson]

I really like that handle. It shows strong English Industrial Revolution style influence.

[Chris Vandiver]

I really like that handle. It shows strong English Industrial Revolution style influence.

I agree with you George(that's pretty easy to do, of course). It is one beautiful handle. Many of the very early Disston saws had nicely designed and executed handles, but this is one of the nicer ones.

[Paul Saffold]

I bought a #12 for $2. I was really excited even though the top horn was busted up. When I took the handle off I found a D7 plate. Bummer.

[Gordon Eyre]

Here is a Diston #12 from the late 1800's to early 1900's:

http://www.pbase.com/greyflash/image/139998898/original.jpg