Band Saw Bearing Blues

[Lynn Reid]

Hello Folks!

Beautiful spring weather in South Carolina!! I have an old...maybe 25 year old...imported 14" band saw. It has been used a lot and sawed very well until the top bearing went out...making for vibration and very visible cut lines. I replaced the bearing...as well as all the bearings in the saw...and it was back to form. Now the new bearing has gone bad...the vibration and saw marks are there again. The only mod I have done to the saw is shimming it up 3/4" with keyway keys. I did this because the saw originally used 92" blades and 93 1/2" is more easily obtainable. I realigned everything properly...the wheels are coplanar...etc. I don't recall the bearing name I used...but it wasn't very expensive...less than $10.00 I'm sure. Unless the bearing was bad to begin with I don't understand why it went out so quickly...within a month. I don't mind replacing it with a higher end bearing if anyone can make a suggestion. I used the same type bearing as was original...a 6101 (I think). Can anyone recommend a good replacement bearing...manufacturer or type?

Thanks!

Lynn

[Myk Rian]

Call Accurate bearing.
http://www.accuratebearing.com/
Lynne is the usual goto there for OWWM. But anybody can take care of you.
Bearing numbers and having the old ones with a caliper can help.

[Van Huskey]

Accurate is great and would use them in a heart-beat for anything expensive or unusual. The bearing you need is probably one that is also used for inline skates etc so they are plentiful and dirt cheap $1-2 at most, buy 10 shipped for under $15. I buy most common bearings from http://www.vxb.com/ Make sure you check the number, although I could be wrong 6101 does not sound right for any 14" cast saw I have worked on. My best guess is you just got a bad bearing.

[Lynn Reid]

Thanks for the replies! I bought the bearings i used from vxb...when I was at it I replaced the bearings in my table saw, drill press, and other machines. It must have been a bad bearing to begin with...but you're right...they were cheap! I thought that may have been the problem. I didn't buy the cheapest they had either. I'll give Accurate a call. Thanks again!

[Van Huskey]

Out of curiosity did you get shielded or sealed bearings?

[Lynn Reid]

Out of curiosity did you get shielded or sealed bearings?

the bearing number is 6202ZE C3 made by Nachi...I just took it out this morning. It has metal shields (?) on both sides of the bearing. It appears that the problem may have been a loose retainer nut as the bearings spins smoothly...unlike the original bad one that chrunched when you spun it by hand. I think I just snugged the nut up to the bearing as there was no support behind the bearings inner race...or between the two bearings.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

Lynn
All the 14" band saw upper wheels, I have had apart had a spacer between the two bearings. Tom

[Lynn Reid]

Lynn
All the 14" band saw upper wheels, I have had apart had a spacer between the two bearings. Tom


I had the same thought...that there should be a spacer there. I suppose I could fabricate one...as long as it fit over the axle and supported the inner race...the dimensions wouldnt be too critical?

I also wanted to install one of those extension kits so that I could resaw. I have a larger motor...1 1/2 HP...but the rod that goes down to the upper guides is hexagonal instead of round like the Grizzly kits. I don't know that there is a workaround for that.

[Van Huskey]

First, which 14" saw do you have? There are actually two ways they are supported in the back of the bearing some use spacers some use a clip. In either case the parts are cheap and generally available.

You can find riser kits with the hex guide bar.

I didn't think that was the correct bearing number. The Z indicates it is shielded, I would use a sealed bearing BUT on the upper wheel it is less of an issue and doesn't sound like it was the problem anyway. The sealed bearing will end in RS or some variation based on the manufacturer.

[Lynn Reid]

First, which 14" saw do you have? There are actually two ways they are supported in the back of the bearing some use spacers some use a clip. In either case the parts are cheap and generally available.

You can find riser kits with the hex guide bar.

I didn't think that was the correct bearing number. The Z indicates it is shielded, I would use a sealed bearing BUT on the upper wheel it is less of an issue and doesn't sound like it was the problem anyway. The sealed bearing will end in RS or some variation based on the manufacturer.

I am pretty sure thats the bearing I used to replace the bad one...although my eyesight isn't what it used to be. I really don't know what the difference would be...between using a sealed or a shielded bearing? There is no clip...the only thing that is there...when the wheel is removed...is a washer on the axle. The saw I have was bought around 1983 or so...it's a 14" import that takes a 92" blade...Cal-Hawk I think. I know it's not the best...but at that time I was using it mainly for rough cutting pinblocks to go into pianos...ansd it was available locally...before the internet!

I have tried to find a source for the hexagonal guide bar riser blocks... but haven't been able to find anything. Any suggestions? I surely would appreciate it! Also...any sources for the missing sleeve or clip.

[Van Huskey]

I am pretty sure thats the bearing I used to replace the bad one...although my eyesight isn't what it used to be. I really don't know what the difference would be...between using a sealed or a shielded bearing? There is no clip...the only thing that is there...when the wheel is removed...is a washer on the axle. The saw I have was bought around 1983 or so...it's a 14" import that takes a 92" blade...Cal-Hawk I think. I know it's not the best...but at that time I was using it mainly for rough cutting pinblocks to go into pianos...ansd it was available locally...before the internet!

I have tried to find a source for the hexagonal guide bar riser blocks... but haven't been able to find anything. Any suggestions? I surely would appreciate it! Also...any sources for the missing sleeve or clip.


Sorry, I was talking about the bearing number you mentioned in the previous post, I didn't think it sounded correct, 6202 does indeed sound correct. I have not had a Cal-Hawk apart so I can't speak to what should be behind the bearing. If you need a spacer you might look for the Delta part if you need a clip then you can look to Grizzly or Jet. If you can you might get some better help if you can take a picture of the wheel and the "washer" and try to show how it is installed.

The hex guide bar can be an issue, I know Carter sells the guide bar alone for 6" and 12" heights BUT the bottom is round to accept THEIR guides, you might be able just to flip the bar. On the other hand you may be able to get a piece of hex bar the right size from McMaster Carr or the like. In the end I spoke too soon regarding finding the kit, it seems the source that I was aware of no longer carries them. They were NOS Delta and Jet parts. You could also check local supply houses for the correct size hex rod. I saved the best option for last, Iturra Designs sells the Delta version (you can call to make sure it is the correct size) for about $30 part #10130.

PS the sealed bearings just work better in dusty enviroments, shielded roll easier but being such a low speed application sealed is fine. I do not think this was your issue.

[Lynn Reid]

I bought a more expensive bearing than the original one. I think the original was sealed...it alarmed me because the actual replacement was so cheap! So the 6202ZE was what came out of there as a replacement for the original. I have a machinist friend who could make a sleeve to support the inner bearing race. I'd really like to replace the guides with Carter's...if I spend too much I may as well buy a new saw.

Thanks for all your input! I love this message board.