Faceplate/coring question

[Harvey Ghesser]

Hi all,

I plan to do some coring in the near future. Specifically, I have a 19 X 8 mulberry blank to be cored. What would be an adequately sized faceplate to use? Would a 6 inch threaded faceplate work?

Thanks in advance!

[Reed Gray]

Well, unless you are coring from the headstock side, which is only possible with some blades that McNaughton used to make, I would not use a face plate. It might work if you are using a waste block. A tenon in the 5 to 6 inch range, or a recess in the 3 to 4 inch range should hold fine if it is properly made as in closely matching the diameter of the chuck jaws, and matching as closely as possible the angle of the chuck jaws. Depth of 1/4 inch max for either, and depending on how solid the wood is, 3/16 to maybe 1/8 inch can work fine.

The face plate screws would hold fine, but you would lose as much as an inch of depth.

Which coring system are you using? A bowl this size is not for beginners, especially if you are using the McNaughton.

robo hippy

[Harvey Ghesser]

Reed, thanks for your help. I'm waiting for delivery of the Oneway Easy Core. This would be the biggest chunk of wood I've had on my Stubby so, initially, I'm wondering what size faceplate to use until I cut the tenon and reverse the bowl. The blank weighs in at 100#s.

[Pete Jordan]

Hey Harvey,

I have used a faceplate until recently. I bought the dovetail jaws for the stronghold chuck and not I do not use a faceplate.

[Reed Gray]

For just driving/spinning the wood, You could drill a recess, with my big Vicmark that is 2 5/8 inches, and with the tailstock attached, that would be plenty to drive the blank. I would not try to drive one with that small of a recess without the tailstock though. I seldom use a face plate any more. You might have to mount it while the blank is on your work bench, rather than trying to mount it in the chuck while the chuck is on the lathe.

robo hippy

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Harvey,
I core the full capacity of my 3520 using the #3 jaws in my Stronghold. I've never had a problem. You will set your base plate on the Oneway system so your largest bowl will have a 1" thick bottom measured from the top of the jaws. That's plenty for any depth bowl. If you choose to use a base plate, you will need to use a six inch plate so you can form a tenon inside the screw holes when you second turn the bowl. That means you will need to set the cutter 1" from the base plate plus your intended tenon thickness.
By the way, be sure to buy the sharpening jig for the cutters. I sharpen the #3 blade almost every time I use it. The jig makes it quick and easy.
faust

[Harvey Ghesser]

Hey Harvey,I have used a faceplate until recently. I bought the dovetail jaws for the stronghold chuck and not I do not use a faceplate.Thanks, Pete...Kinda what Reed and Faust said. My other options are the Screw on drive I bought from Bill at Stubbylathe dot com.http://stubbylatheusa.com/images/DriveCenter_m.jpgBill said that this drive is what he uses for much bigger blanks than the one I mentioned. Also, I emailed Paulo at Glaser Hi-Tec wondering if I could use the Glaser Screw Chuckhttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/attach/jpg.gif with the large backing plate and he said absolutely, as long as I use the tail stock. So now decision time.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Harvey,
If you get a chance, go on the Oneway site and watch the video on the coring rig. It will explain a lot. By the way, I start every bowl I make, cored or not between centers and use screw on center you showed in your post. I removed two of the blades. I find it bites better in face grain that way. Though screw centers are fast and strong, I like to have the ability to move the center of the bowl to better balance the grain.
faust

[robert baccus]

Consider a glueblock of really tough wood. dogwood, beech, brazil cherry ect. then turn a dovetail to fit your chuck, drill for a single screw or screw to a face-plate. 3 options. make it 2" thick and it will last for many bowls in the future. use thick CA glue and you can attach green or dry wood and be turning in minutes. good luck-------------old forester

[Harvey Ghesser]

Harvey,
If you get a chance, go on the Oneway site and watch the video on the coring rig. It will explain a lot. By the way, I start every bowl I make, cored or not between centers and use screw on center you showed in your post. I removed two of the blades. I find it bites better in face grain that way. Though screw centers are fast and strong, I like to have the ability to move the center of the bowl to better balance the grain.
faust

Thanks, Faust. I've seen the video (the ease of the coring rig sold me) but actually mounting this beast makes me a bit nervous. I'm drawn to the ease and safety of the set-up with the between centers Stubby or Glaser devise.

[Tim Rinehart]

I'm not familiar with the tailstock on the Stubby, but you may want to have an extension for the tailstock to help get the clearance you need for using the coring rig. Craft Supplies has a good value on one... http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Morse_Taper_Accessories___No__ 2MT_Extension___2mt_extension?Args=

[Harvey Ghesser]

I'm not familiar with the tailstock on the Stubby, but you may want to have an extension for the tailstock to help get the clearance you need for using the coring rig. Craft Supplies has a good value on one... http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Morse_Taper_Accessories___No__ 2MT_Extension___2mt_extension?Args=

Thanks for the heads up on the extention, Tim. I'll be ordering.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Harvey,
With the aid of the extension Tim mentioned, I actually have the tailstock against every core. I can't always start with it in place but as the knife is moved into the wood, I can move it up. It adds security and keeps the core from falling on the floor.
faust

[Harvey Ghesser]

Harvey,
With the aid of the extension Tim mentioned, I actually have the tailstock against every core. I can't always start with it in place but as the knife is moved into the wood, I can move it up. It adds security and keeps the core from falling on the floor.
faust

UPS just delivered a box from Oneway! The tailstock extension has been ordered (thanks, Tim!) I'll photo-document the coring process when I start. Thanks, Faust!

[Steve Kubien]

Are you thinking of using a screw chuck to mount a bowl for coring because that is how I am reading this? I know you love your Glazer tools but I hope your health insurance is paid up if you are going to use a screw chuck.

If I am reading this wrong, forget I said anything.

[Harvey Ghesser]

No Steve, not for coring. Oh, and Steve, GLASER is spelled with with an S and not a Z.

[Steve Kubien]

Oh good.

Saw your post après coring. Man, you've got BIG mulberry where you are!