D8 re-hab, questions

[steven c newman]

I picked up a thumbhole, skew back D8 the other day (@$2). Trying to get this big guy back to working condition. Sanding away all the rust, and even paint splatters ( Painters use saws?):eek: Found a few things:

Brass Sawnuts, non split type. Brass medallion, with keystone, "DISSTON" "U.S.A." Sawnuts will come out, but the Medallion just spins with the bolt. Fix?


Etch is now showing up. Big keystone, with HENRY DISSTON & SONS along with the D8. However, there is a second etch between the keystone, and the handle. Two lines of script, with henry Disston's "John Hancock" signed below.. Common? Anyone know what Ol' Henry was writing about?



Below the handle, on the etch side of the blade; 5-1/2 Tooth size, ppi?



Thumbhole handle: Has a break in it. About the area of the bottom "Horn". extends to the blade area. I can plane the break smooth, IF I can get the handle OFF. Two of the FOUR sawnuts are MIA, not a big deal, I can go back downtown and by a similar sized saw for......$2. Be worth the WALK. 7 blocks, one way. Anyway, first rehab of a saw of this size. BTW, NO Lamb's tongue was on the handle, either. Just a small notch, is all...

[Jim Matthews]

These are great user's saws. The thumbhole makes it possible to get both arms involved when ripping.

5 1/2 teeth per inch, and they're big teeth. Mine has no lamb's tongue, either. If the handle has a simple split, I use a cabinet scraper or paint scraper to spread the break and then apply glue.

Some of the big dogs use a handscrew clamp to get the stuck screws and medallions - they drill a hole large enough to admit a screwdriver on one side.
The handscrew face holds the spinning bolt on the other side. I believe if you search "hand saw rehab" in the search page you'll find lots of tips.

These are good saws, with good steel and should be worth the effort to get running in your shop.

You'll be needing a proper sawbench, next. Search for Acharaya Kumarswami's sawbench - that's the design that works for me.

jim
wpt, ma

[Jeff L Miller]

I've rejuvenated a few of these recently. The hand screw wooden clamp is a great idea, but with the medallion, you don't need to drill the hole. Just screw the clamp so it grabs the medallion on one side and make sure the other side of the clamp is next to the slotted screw head. With the medallion held tight, it should come off. They can corrode and become stubborn but I havn't failed at removing one yet.

The etch to the right of the main D8 etch reads, "for beauty, finish, and utility, this saw cannot be excelled" Henry Disston. It is their common etch.

For the handle, I like to use two part epoxy to repair any cracks. Your glue line will be a little bit thicker, but I like the strength of the epoxy and I've had poor luck with yellow carpenters glue lately; user error I'm sure. I let people know the repairs have been done, there is no shame in a visible repair. It adds to the history and honesty of the saw and it can also be a way of showing off your skill at letting in some apple to a damaged handle. We would all prefer perfect handles, but 100 year old saws have usually been loved by several craftsman who took pride in their work. Initials, owner marks, dings, chipped horns, and scratches are all a part of that history and I prefer a handle to show an owners pride, just my 2 cents.

Now you get to learn to sharpen, a rip saw is a great place to start.

Jeff

[Jim Koepke]

Painters use saws?

Painters will use anything for a drop cloth.

jtk

[Mike Allen1010]

Steven,

If the split extends to the area of the tote where the saw nuts are, consider checking the alignment of the holes in the small plate with the holes in the tote before you reinstall the saw nuts.

Some time as these handles dry out (Disston went from "PHILA" to "USA" on their medallions in 1940) the holes in the tote become misaligned with those in the plate. If that's the case, reinstalling the saw nuts can cause the repaired split to reopen. You may need to file a bit of adjustment into the saw plate holes to prevent this.

If you're interested in trying to make a faint etch more visible, I have had good luck using gun barrel bluing (they sell it in gun shops). I would encourage you to follow directions carefully - you might not want to try it for the first time on your prized vintage saw. It took me a few tries to get the effect I wanted, but it's an option.

There are folks here who know a lot more about this than me, and perhaps they can offer better advice.

Mike

[steven c newman]

Handle had more than a split to it. About a 1/2' thick piece was MIA. Found another broken handle, from a backsaw, that matched the area that was missing. Right at the bottom of the handle. Matched the two pieces up, and glued them together. Got some shaping done tonight, more later, after the titebond has cured out. Teeth are still quite sharp, just ask my one finger about that. Just barely graised the fingerand drew blood. Might try the gun blue, later....

[Mike Holbrook]

I have had some success removing stuck medallions by pressing the medallion against a hard piece of rubber with the screw driver. Larger rusty areas are cleaned easier with a wide chisel, paint remover with razor, or a sharp putty knife.

[Jim Matthews]

I have had some success removing stuck medallions by pressing the medallion against a hard piece of rubber with the screw driver.

That's a good idea, right there.
When my wife figures out this method to open jars, I'll get kicked to the curb.