Need New Heat Pump/AC - Questions

[Belinda Barfield]

I've read past threads for recommendations and Carrier and Trane seem to come the most highly recommended.

Background - Condo built 15 years ago, original heat pump. Geothermal/gas/etc. not an option.

I had the existing unit checked out and serviced last fall and this spring. Both times I was told the unit is on its last leg and could "blow the coils" at any time. I would like to avoid having to replace the unit in July when it's over 100 degrees here, and have to pay a premium service call. I met with a sales rep and was quoted replcement cost for heat pump and air handler at $5000 to $9000. I have spoken with neighbors who have had units replaced at a cost of anywhere from $2500 to $4500. I know the higher efficiecy rating, the higher the price. In the $9000 range all exterior components are coated with a material that protects from corrosion. I live on a marsh so salt air is a factor.

What should I resonably expect to pay for a unit that will heat/cool an 1100 square foot space? I do live on the top floor and get a good bit of direct sun for the majority of the day. I don't plan on staying in the condo for more than 5 years or so, but at that time will probably rent it out, so I'm not looking for an easy, temporary fix.

[Matt Meiser]

We had a 2.5 ton 15 SEER Trane heat pump installed 1-1/2 years ago for about $4500 including a high-end thermostat but not an airhandler or electric aux heat as ours went in place of an existing AC system on top of an existing gas furnace that's about a year older. Our house is bigger than that, but our climate more moderate.

[Belinda Barfield]

Thanks for the reply Matt. I forgot about the aux heater, it rarely gets cold enough to need it. The biggest need is AC. I turned on the AC last night for the second or third time this year.

[paul cottingham]

When I bought this house, I had to replace the furnace and put in a new oil tank, so I bit the bullet and replaced everything with a heat pump. It is a 11 SEER unit that cost me about $9000, to heat and cool a larger space than yours. But that was everything, including a new air handler. Do you need to replace everything?

[Dan Hintz]

Our 2.5 ton (I think it was 2.5) Carrier is a 19 SEER job, and I opted for a heavier 15kW heater, just in case (cost was minimal to upgrade). A little more than 2.5 years ago we had it installed for around $7k, then got back about $2k in rebates. This was for everything replaced. It's their Infinity system w/Puron, nice control panel, etc. I've considered adding their multi-zone option when I have them re-do the ductwork.

[Matt Meiser]

15kw

ouch!!!!!!!!!!

[Dan Hintz]

ouch!!!!!!!!!!

I think it came with a 10kW standard, and they add a third 5kW element... I ran an extra 30A line for it. It's all staged, so each of the 5kW elements comes on separately, as needed. This was after a winter when it got really cold indoors and the old unit couldn't keep up. Now that I have the pellet stove in the basement, I doubt I need it anymore, so come time for the next stage of the remodel I'll probably leave it unhooked.

[Belinda Barfield]

Thanks all for your feedback. Yes, I have to replace everything. I'm thinking of having the ductwork replaced also.

[Brian Elfert]

Why would you replace the ductwork too? Are you you talking about the ductwork right above the furnace, or all the ductwork in the condo?

The quality of the installation is more important than the brand of equipment. A good installer can make low end equipment work very well, and a bad installer can make the best equipment worthless with a poor install.

[Belinda Barfield]

Why would you replace the ductwork too? Are you you talking about the ductwork right above the furnace, or all the ductwork in the condo?

The quality of the installation is more important than the brand of equipment. A good installer can make low end equipment work very well, and a bad installer can make the best equipment worthless with a poor install.

Just a thought, Brian. Originally these "condos" were built as apartments, high end apartments, but still apartments. Because I am top floor all of the duct work is easily accessible in the "attic" space. It is all the flexible silvery stuff - technical term for I have no idea what to call it. If I'm going to the expense of having everything else replaced I thought it might be worth it because we have a lot of mold issues in this area.

[Dan Hintz]

Belinda,

You're saying they used flex pipe for all ductwork? Is that even to code? I'm not sure, hence my question, but even if it's to code, it sounds very inefficient.

[Brian Elfert]

I've seen flex duct used in attics all the time. One advantage is it has built-in insulation. I think metal is better, but I don't know why one would pull out flex duct unless it isn't working. A good HVAC person can evaluate if the duct work is working. (Some will sell you new duct work just to make some money even if you don't need it.)

The HVAC in my house is top notch. All of the supply ducts are metal, properly supported, and all joints are fully sealed. The return ducts are mostly metal with short runs of flex duct to the returns themselves. I can live with a small amount of flex duct. If they had used flex duct instead of metal in the whole house I would have been upset. I live in Minnesota so all of my duct work is in the basement or in interior walls. No attic duct work due to the cold winters.

[Belinda Barfield]

Belinda,

You're saying they used flex pipe for all ductwork? Is that even to code? I'm not sure, hence my question, but even if it's to code, it sounds very inefficient.

It must be to code because flex pipe (thanks for the proper terminology) is used pretty much everywhere here. Long story short, our old office space was built out for storage space overhead. A possum had baby possums up there, chewed through the duct work, and one morning when I got to work I had a baby possum trapped in the vent over my desk.

Heat is the big issue here, of course. It can easily hit 120 or so in our attic space.

One reason I asked for recommendations is that the heat/air guy is treating me like a dumb blonde female. I know I need to replace the unit but I don't think I need to buy the farm in addition.

[Dan Hintz]

Yeah, unless the ductwork is faulty in some way, I see no reason to replace it (like changing out your new car because the engine blew... but you get new doors and hood!). Make sure the insulation around the ductwork is in order to cut down on heat soak during those summer months and call it a day.

[Bill Cunningham]

Our 2.5 ton (I think it was 2.5) Carrier is a 19 SEER job, and I opted for a heavier 15kW heater, just in case (cost was minimal to upgrade). A little more than 2.5 years ago we had it installed for around $7k, then got back about $2k in rebates. This was for everything replaced. It's their Infinity system w/Puron, nice control panel, etc. I've considered adding their multi-zone option when I have them re-do the ductwork.

I have the same heat pump installed here, and even with a good ole Canadian winters it works well.. It's set to kick off at 15f, and switch over to the matching ultra high eff. gas furnace. Also installed a rinnai tankless water heater, and had to have an additional 100 feet of gas pipe installed at the same time, total cost was around 13k and got about 5k back in rebates..I love the controls on the infinity system.. This lowered my heat cost on oil, from 3k a year, down to about 1200 a year, including the air condx we never had before.