Hand grinder

[Mike Holbrook]

I have been interested in trying one of these out for quite a while and finally found one at auction and won it. I see grinding stones labeled as "Cool" on Lee Valley's site and I am wondering if the 80 or 120 stone(s) might be a good investment? I am thinking about garden/chopping/splitting tools in addition to chisels and plane blades. Maybe hollow grinding my 1/4" thick wooden plane blades... will make them easier to resharpen?

I am hoping that by controlling the wheel speed I can prevent dangerous heat buildup.

[David Posey]

I wouldn't worry with expensive wheels for a hand grinder. I'd also go with something coarser than 80 grit. I think I've got a 60 grit plain old gray wheel on mine. I would have a lower grit wheel, but my small grinder is an odd size and that's what the store had at the time in its size.

Even with the friable wheels it would still be possible to burn a tool on a hand grinder. You'd have to try, but you could do it. What you need is not technology, but attentiveness. And maybe a small bucket or cup of water to dip the tool in when you feel it getting too hot. It really depends on how much material you're removing. If you keep your fingers near the tool's edge, you can feel when the heat is building up, and you'll know to stop before it gets too hot to touch.

It also helps to keep the wheel properly dressed so that you have a fresh cutting surface.

If you sharpen freehand, then yes, a hollow grind will make it easier to sharpen your plane blades. If you use a guide, it's a waste of time.

[george wilson]

It makes no difference how fast or slow you run the grinder. You still have to remove the same amount of metal. You can still burn it unless you quench frequently. When my blades are getting thin on their cutting edges as I am nearing completion of the grind,I quench every FEW seconds.

I would choose to not use a hand grinder for sharpening plane irons. More accurate work can easily be done on a bench grinder,or my choice,a belt grinder.

[Tony Shea]

I also personally prefer a power grinder as I get a little better control out of it. As George said, when your metal is getting real thin at the edge dunk the steel often. This is true for hand or power.

And I agree that the "Cool" wheels that LV is selling is not a good choice. IMO it's not a good choice for power grinding either. Only because they do not come coarse enough. I would find the coarsest grinding wheel you can find, be it gray, white, purple, etc. I use a 46grit gray wheel and get great results.

[Jim Koepke]

Funny, I was looking at one of these yesterday and was thinking of buying it.

It was an oldie with a big open gear driving a smaller gear that had a chain drive to spin the stone.

Looked like a fun finger pincher, not my kind of fun.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

I saw one or two like that too Jim. They look interesting, but my fingers suffer enough risk from the big dogs, woodworking & construction projects in general. The one I got has all the gears enclosed. I though 80 grit was very coarse. I will check around for something coarser. Although, the wheel on it looks decent size and coarse. maybe it will work and last a while.

[Jim Koepke]

I though 80 grit was very coarse.

That is what I use on my hunk of granite to work beat up blades. I can't imagine needing anything coarser.

jtk